- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Okay ..I got the guinea pig back from the semi major surgery ..and I asked the wrench to spare me some $$ by just putting in water. No problem. So I decided to use a PG type coolant that's available at one of our fine chain stores. AA had LowTox ..so I bought two gallons.
Now normally, in just about every "flush and fill" that I've ever done, I can rarely get more than one gallon into the engine. I do assure that what's in there is just water by running the engine for a good bit with the petcock open and the hose running in the rad. I make sure that the heater (valved) is on ..and that the upper hose is hot/warm.
Anyway, I somehow managed to fit all but two gallons in (I took my time and it took more than usual.
I started getting higher than normal temps. My fan would not cycle when it turned on. I was driving on the highway and glanced at my temp gauge and it was 3/4 of the way up the range (normal in all modes/all seasons is just below 1/2 - if you're at 1/2, you're HOT). When I stopped there was no boil over ...not one sign that there was anything wrong except that the fan wouldn't cycle. No coolant was lost and only a very minor amount changed in the recovery tank due to the fisrt cycle/purge of remaining air. The level was totally stable.
Tearing my hair out I thought of all things that typically effect temp. Now this thing has 170k on it and has surely been in various states of tune ..but what the heck. I ran the on board diagnostics and it showed a bad MAP and O2 sensor. The wrench put on a new O2 sensor and the Mopar site mentioned that a bad MAP can throw an O2 code (always at low voltage) since the O2 is trying to balance out what the MAP is telling the PCM where to put the pulse width on the fuel curve. Okay, new MAP and the O2 code is still there. But if it's in open loop ..the long term adaptives could still be sending it low. Yet, when on the highway ...the temp still rose over time ..especially after the engine fully warmed up (not just coolant) and oil temp reached 180°F.
Still being paranoid of the repair aspect of it (who knows what may have happened - new tb/wp/head gaskets/etc.) I kept looking for something to point there. None seemed apparent.
I then decided to actually read the jug of LowTox. It says that the maximum concentration is 67% (when all else fails, read the instructions).
I drained, cleaned/flushed, and refilled the system with just water. The fan cycled. I then drained the rad and just filled with about 1 gallon of the stuff that I had drained out (maybe a little more). The fan still cycled at idle.
Has anyone else ran into this?? That is, higher than normal temps with no apparent associated symptoms (boil over, etc.)??
Now normally, in just about every "flush and fill" that I've ever done, I can rarely get more than one gallon into the engine. I do assure that what's in there is just water by running the engine for a good bit with the petcock open and the hose running in the rad. I make sure that the heater (valved) is on ..and that the upper hose is hot/warm.
Anyway, I somehow managed to fit all but two gallons in (I took my time and it took more than usual.
I started getting higher than normal temps. My fan would not cycle when it turned on. I was driving on the highway and glanced at my temp gauge and it was 3/4 of the way up the range (normal in all modes/all seasons is just below 1/2 - if you're at 1/2, you're HOT). When I stopped there was no boil over ...not one sign that there was anything wrong except that the fan wouldn't cycle. No coolant was lost and only a very minor amount changed in the recovery tank due to the fisrt cycle/purge of remaining air. The level was totally stable.
Tearing my hair out I thought of all things that typically effect temp. Now this thing has 170k on it and has surely been in various states of tune ..but what the heck. I ran the on board diagnostics and it showed a bad MAP and O2 sensor. The wrench put on a new O2 sensor and the Mopar site mentioned that a bad MAP can throw an O2 code (always at low voltage) since the O2 is trying to balance out what the MAP is telling the PCM where to put the pulse width on the fuel curve. Okay, new MAP and the O2 code is still there. But if it's in open loop ..the long term adaptives could still be sending it low. Yet, when on the highway ...the temp still rose over time ..especially after the engine fully warmed up (not just coolant) and oil temp reached 180°F.
Still being paranoid of the repair aspect of it (who knows what may have happened - new tb/wp/head gaskets/etc.) I kept looking for something to point there. None seemed apparent.
I then decided to actually read the jug of LowTox. It says that the maximum concentration is 67% (when all else fails, read the instructions).
I drained, cleaned/flushed, and refilled the system with just water. The fan cycled. I then drained the rad and just filled with about 1 gallon of the stuff that I had drained out (maybe a little more). The fan still cycled at idle.
Has anyone else ran into this?? That is, higher than normal temps with no apparent associated symptoms (boil over, etc.)??