Lowering tire PSi ok in snow?

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What's the date code on those tires? If it's over 7 years I'd replace automatically; if it's newer though I'm not sure if those cracks are anything more than superficial.

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Originally Posted By: silverrat
And yet in the towing thread you claimed your tires were fine? You were planning on towing a car with tires like those?


You got it! You were right; I was wrong.

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Originally Posted By: Miller88
You can mount a 235 75-15 on those wheels easily.

Being a little narrower they would also be better in the snow.


235-75-R15 and the wheels wont stick out over it? This would be a GODSEND as the tires on there now make gas mileage bad...
 
Originally Posted By: supton
What's the date code on those tires? If it's over 7 years I'd replace automatically; if it's newer though I'm not sure if those cracks are anything more than superficial.

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Thank you.

I checked the dates according to http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11 and - EGADS! Three tires from 2004; the Goodyear is from 2005.

Will not pass inspection with these tires.

Ok....
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
You can mount a 235 75-15 on those wheels easily.

Being a little narrower they would also be better in the snow.


+1 I ran 235/75/15 tires for decades, (and before that, the old "L78-15").
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
I put in some used oil as well as a LOT of fuel system cleaner, so the oil is black. I need a new reference point so I will get on that, as to Blazer mechanicals. I will keep that on that thread.


Wait, used motor oil? Get that oil changed asap! I'm speechless right now.
 
Most oil gets changed well before it's "used up". OP has a 4.3 GM, right? I don't think that motor cares much about high quality oil--no VVT etc. Old school pushrods.

Do inspection shops check tire date codes? I don't think they do up here, don't know about down there. I *think* they usually only look at tire depth, obvious defects and the like. I would tend to think they'd only bust you on cracks like that if they thought they could get away with it, not because legally you cannot have cracks like that nor tires that old. Doesn't matter if you plan to replace, though.
 
I thought Jersey only did emissions inspections now.

I've seen worse tires than those.

The difference between driving in snow and over sand is with snow you want to dig down to pavement. In sand if you dig down you sink.

Snow tires are formulated with mushier sidewalls but this doesn't exactly match taking all seasons and airing them down. The mushy sidewalls are supposed to make the tread flex and throw snow away at the right time.

When snow season comes around, if you don't have new tires, sipe the ones you have. Run a razor blade on the big tread blocks and make them look like snows. Just find a picture of a blizzak etc online and copy that.
 
OP should get the HF tire changer and go junkyarding. Lots of good used tires for $20, but him having 4wd, he should get them all the same size

This tool pays for itself in under one 4-tire changeover done at a shop.
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Last year, in the snow and with my S10 as well as Volvo 1, I had to lower tire pressure (let some air out) to get around hilly and slippery in snow terrain. Now, perhaps I need new tires and this practice was not normal.

Why? It seemed to have worked so well.
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Originally Posted By: eljefino
OP should get the HF tire changer and go junkyarding. Lots of good used tires for $20, but him having 4wd, he should get them all the same size

This tool pays for itself in under one 4-tire changeover done at a shop.

I'll buy the popcorn to see a video of him changing tires with it!
 
Wrangler RT/S are horrid tires in the winter as well.

OEM junk
 
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Junkyard yourself a set of matching 15" Michelin LTX M/S or M/S2's with lots of tread on them if you can't afford dedicated snows. We've run them on all our Expeditions (three of them) and my old Explorer in snow/ice up here and they perform very well.
 
Originally Posted By: GutsyGecko
I have studded snow tires, and dropping them to 12 psi doubles the contact patch. Max speed 20-30 mph...


Unless you're running radically wide tires in order to run on top of several feet of snow, like these guys in Iceland:

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there is absolutely no reason why you should run lower than standard tire pressures on the streets.

Tires at standard pressures, in good condition and driving suitable to the conditions is the way to go. Dedicated snow tires on all 4 wheels are best, all-season tires are not as good, and low profile wide performance tires are the worst in snow.

If you have 4-wheel drive, just remember that you will not be able to stop as quickly as you were able to accelerate.

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If you are running on the street, the placard pressure is what you ought to be using. I'll even go so far as to recommend a couple of psi more.

Why? Because when it comes to snow, the best traction is when the tire gets pushed through the snow and down to the pavement. even a tiny bit of contact with the pavement is better than snow.

- BUT -

(and here is where people get confused) If your tires are NOT in contact with the road surface, then a lower pressure puts more tire in contact with the snow, and the result is better traction. Not as good as a the road surface, but better.

That's why the "low pressure in sand" recommendation exists.

So I would recommend using a few more psi for your winter tires, but air down if you get stuck. If you are having trouble with traction during your winter drive, I'd recommend you stay home.
 
eljefino said:
I thought Jersey only did emissions inspections now.

Yep, they don't care about safety anymore while inspecting. Though my local NJ inspection station still tests your brake performance and balance. Though I don't know if they'd fail you if it was poor. However the police can now stop you and ticket you for the safety violations that would have previously failed you at the time of inspection. With some of the cars I've seen on the roads the police should have a field day.

Whimsey
 
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