If the leak keeps reappearing, replace the hose(s) and clamps. Put a thin layer of Permatex 2 on the inside of the new hose before installing. You may have to "slightly" tweek the clamp but don't crank on it till you see the rubber coming thru the slits in the clamp.
lower radiator hose- replace?
- Thread starter joaks
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If you have a persistent leak use the constant torque hose clamps, most larger diesels use them.
Double clamping is never a bad idea. Just about any marine hose connection that can potentially sink the boat (thru hull water feeds, etc) is done this way.
If the hose consistently leaks under clamp, replace the hose. Rubber hoses can grow over time, and lose their ability to seal effectively.
If the hose consistently leaks under clamp, replace the hose. Rubber hoses can grow over time, and lose their ability to seal effectively.
This is very common with plastic tanks and thermostat housings.
Use one of these on the radiator and thermostat housing and your troubles are over. Post if you need the clamp part number that fits the Subaru i have them here.
http://www.finditparts.com/products/3329...CFSgV7Aod5WEAVg
Use one of these on the radiator and thermostat housing and your troubles are over. Post if you need the clamp part number that fits the Subaru i have them here.
http://www.finditparts.com/products/3329...CFSgV7Aod5WEAVg
Another concern is if you have precipitate on the radiator outlet that the hose slides over. I have seen hoses weep continuously until you pull the hose, clean the metal of precipitate/corrosion, and re-install.
I notice you have a 1997 Subaru. It might have come OE with a P-HOAT coolant; most Japanese manufacturers were switching to it at that time. If it's not sporting regular old-type green, and the system was not fully flushed when the chemistry change was made, that can be the cause of excess precipitate in the system and at hose junctions. Seen this quite a few times. Disclaimer: I'm not a Subaru expert and I don't know what their OE coolant was in 1997, but that was about the time switch-over for most of them (Japanese makers).
I notice you have a 1997 Subaru. It might have come OE with a P-HOAT coolant; most Japanese manufacturers were switching to it at that time. If it's not sporting regular old-type green, and the system was not fully flushed when the chemistry change was made, that can be the cause of excess precipitate in the system and at hose junctions. Seen this quite a few times. Disclaimer: I'm not a Subaru expert and I don't know what their OE coolant was in 1997, but that was about the time switch-over for most of them (Japanese makers).
Originally Posted By: artificialist
You can get stainless steel hose clamps at the boating supply stores. I would use those when installing a replacement hose.
Spring/OEM type, or standard old worm gears??
You can get stainless steel hose clamps at the boating supply stores. I would use those when installing a replacement hose.
Spring/OEM type, or standard old worm gears??
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: artificialist
You can get stainless steel hose clamps at the boating supply stores. I would use those when installing a replacement hose.
Spring/OEM type, or standard old worm gears??
They are a worm gear style, but they apply clamping force more evenly. I think BMW already uses them from the factory.
Originally Posted By: artificialist
You can get stainless steel hose clamps at the boating supply stores. I would use those when installing a replacement hose.
Spring/OEM type, or standard old worm gears??
They are a worm gear style, but they apply clamping force more evenly. I think BMW already uses them from the factory.
One time i had an issue with a radiator hose leaking in cold weather. It was frustrating and i just couldn't seem to get the clamp to stop leaking. I eventually replaced the hose with a good quality "Gates" hose and a new worm clamp and it hasn't leaked since.
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: artificialist
You can get stainless steel hose clamps at the boating supply stores. I would use those when installing a replacement hose.
Spring/OEM type, or standard old worm gears??
They are a worm gear style, but they apply clamping force more evenly. I think BMW already uses them from the factory.
Are they made by that Swedish company (forgot the name), and they have continuous, stainless, solid bands with no holes in them, just raised serrations??
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: artificialist
You can get stainless steel hose clamps at the boating supply stores. I would use those when installing a replacement hose.
Spring/OEM type, or standard old worm gears??
They are a worm gear style, but they apply clamping force more evenly. I think BMW already uses them from the factory.
Are they made by that Swedish company (forgot the name), and they have continuous, stainless, solid bands with no holes in them, just raised serrations??
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: artificialist
You can get stainless steel hose clamps at the boating supply stores. I would use those when installing a replacement hose.
Spring/OEM type, or standard old worm gears??
They are a worm gear style, but they apply clamping force more evenly. I think BMW already uses them from the factory.
Are they made by that Swedish company (forgot the name), and they have continuous, stainless, solid bands with no holes in them, just raised serrations??
Those Swedish clamps are made by ABA.
On hoses that tend to leak I prefer crimp clamps, which maintain tension better thand screw type clamps. I'd also advise to pull all hoses off the barbs and to check the hose barbs for cracks, as the leak may be coming from such a crack rather than from a loose clamp.
hotwheels
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: artificialist
You can get stainless steel hose clamps at the boating supply stores. I would use those when installing a replacement hose.
Spring/OEM type, or standard old worm gears??
They are a worm gear style, but they apply clamping force more evenly. I think BMW already uses them from the factory.
Are they made by that Swedish company (forgot the name), and they have continuous, stainless, solid bands with no holes in them, just raised serrations??
Those Swedish clamps are made by ABA.
On hoses that tend to leak I prefer crimp clamps, which maintain tension better thand screw type clamps. I'd also advise to pull all hoses off the barbs and to check the hose barbs for cracks, as the leak may be coming from such a crack rather than from a loose clamp.
hotwheels
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