Lower ball joint, cotter pin question

[Rykertest]

I am about to replace the lower ball joints on my 2001 Toyota Sequoia. I’m using OEM parts with new bolts, nuts and pins. I’ve watched a ton of videos and it’s pretty straightforward with one minor difference. When putting the castle nuts back on and then lining up the hole to put the pin back in, some videos say to tighten it to align the hole and some say to back it off to align the pin hole.

Does this matter and which one is right?

Thank you.

 

[bdcardinal]

You tighten to find the hole.

 

[Rykertest]

You tighten to find the hole.

Thanks for your reply. Any idea why they would claim you need to loosen it? Seems counterintuitive.

 

[bdcardinal]

Thanks for your reply. Any idea why they would claim you need to loosen it? Seems counterintuitive.

Unless it specifically says to loosen in the service manual. But I don't think I have ever seen it. Usually the torque range on a castle nut is massive so it will allow for the low end spec and up to like 60-70 degrees of rotation to get the hole lined up properly.

 

[JohnnyG]

Depends on whether you tighten it too much initially.

 

[Rykertest]

Unless it specifically says to loosen in the service manual. But I don't think I have ever seen it. Usually the torque range on a castle nut is massive so it will allow for the low end spec and up to like 60-70 degrees of rotation to get the hole lined up properly.

Understood. The castle nut is supposed to be at 103 foot lbs. I can’t see how an extra 1/8 turn would matter much to ensure the pin is in would matter. Thanks for your reply.

 

[Chris142]

Never back off when tightening a taper. Keep tightening till you can get the lottery pin in.

 

[kschachn]

I am about to replace the lower ball joints on my 2001 Toyota Sequoia. I’m using OEM parts with new bolts, nuts and pins. I’ve watched a ton of videos and it’s pretty straightforward with one minor difference. When putting the castle nuts back on and then lining up the hole to put the pin back in, some videos say to tighten it to align the hole and some say to back it off to align the pin hole.

Does this matter and which one is right?

Thank you.

A good example of why one should have the FSM or other reliable service information for repairs rather than random Internet videos.

 

[Trav]

Understood. The castle nut is supposed to be at 103 foot lbs. I can’t see how an extra 1/8 turn would matter much to ensure the pin is in would matter. Thanks for your reply.

That sounded way too high so I had to look. I tighten tie rod castle nut to 50-55 f.lb or just tight with a 1/2 drive ratchet then look for a hole, never loosen. 91 nm or 67 ft.lb. Believe it or not seriously over tightening the taper can crack the knuckle.

 

[Rykertest]

That sounded way too high so I had to look. I tighten tie rod castle nut to 50-55 f.lb or just tight with a 1/2 drive ratchet then look for a hole, never loosen. 91 nm or 67 ft.lb. Believe it or not seriously over tightening the taper can crack the knuckle.


View attachment 110704

My local Toyota dealer is either right, or an idiot. Then again, they try to sell me Tacoma parts each time I go in for my sequoia so…..

thanks for the follow up. It’s greatly appreciated.

 

[KJH]

That sounded way too high so I had to look. I tighten tie rod castle nut to 50-55 f.lb or just tight with a 1/2 drive ratchet then look for a hole, never loosen. 91 nm or 67 ft.lb. Believe it or not seriously over tightening the taper can crack the knuckle.


View attachment 110704

Threadstarter says he is replacing the lower ball joint, not the tie rod. I don't have access to a FSM but some quick googling for the LCA ball joint has figures between 90-105 ft lbs, and the same sources have tie rod torque specs around the same as your image.

 

[Trav]

My bad, sorry. I have tie rods on my mind or its old timers. LOL

 

[mrbreezeet1]

My bad, sorry. I have tie rods on my mind or its old timers. LOL

I think you're cracking up like I am Bro.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Threadstarter says he is replacing the lower ball joint, not the tie rod. I don't have access to a FSM but some quick googling for the LCA ball joint has figures between 90-105 ft lbs, and the same sources have tie rod torque specs around the same as your image.

Mite older thread I know, but ....................
Yeah, between 90-105 ft lbs. sounds about right for a ball joint. Sometimes you can't get a T-wrench on then, so
the German spec of goodentight is fine!

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I am about to replace the lower ball joints on my 2001 Toyota Sequoia. I’m using OEM parts with new bolts, nuts and pins. I’ve watched a ton of videos and it’s pretty straightforward with one minor difference. When putting the castle nuts back on and then lining up the hole to put the pin back in, some videos say to tighten it to align the hole and some say to back it off to align the pin hole.

Does this matter and which one is right?

Thank you.

So how did the job go?

 

[JZiggy]

Same balljoint as what's on my 4Runner. Yes, the spec is 103 ft-lbf. It's an M16 thread so it's a pretty big taper. Always tighten to find the cotter pin hole, never loosen. Once you have jammed the tapered shaft in a certain amount backing the nut up will only leave a gap -- you really don't want that.

Side note - the updated black bolts w/ captive washer from Toyota are superior than the flange bolts. There's a great study that looks at the clamp force generated by the different bolt designs. The black bolt @ 37 ft-lbf is the best one available.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I was always taught to tighten to the next hole, and DO NOT back off!

 

[paulo57509]

I adjust old school tapered front wheel bearings by feel; this is the only place I would ever back off to line up the hole to the nut.