low temp thermostat

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That's a good point that lots of people don't understand. MOST people (not on this thread so far, though) swap in a colder thermostat to prevent overheating- which really has little and nothing to do with opening temperature, as either a 180 degree thermostat or a 195 degree thermostat would be fully open anyway by the time you hit 200 degrees or so. Opening temperature is a moot point in this case- cooling system capacity is what matters.

That and the .01% fuel mileage are the reasons why I always keep the stock thermostat... though I'll admit that I ran a 160 degree thermostat in my 1976 Buick Skyhawk when I was an 18-year-old #@$%!. Heh... good times.

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Of course, a 180 degree thermostat won't really HURT anything in the vast majority of cases- it simply isn't worth the trouble (usually). But if this guy is running an aftermarket chip that reccomends said thermostat- then ByGawd he ought to run it to get the maximum effect of his monkeying around with the well-engineered stock setup. That engine can still run many hundreds of thousands of miles at 180 degrees and there will be absolutely no measurable difference in wear.
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The thermostat does more work than its noted for. Your cooling system needs to have a chance to exchange the heat out of the system. That is done best, when the thermostat closes and slows the coolant flow to the radiator. Although my coolant temp is registering at 197°F, I am sure my thermostat had a lot of moving to do for it to maintain that temp, along with my radiator of course.
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There's no gain to running a 180F thermostat in one spec'd for 195F unless it's in a Hi-per setup where your WOT event overwhelms your cooling system. It will give you whatever time that it takes to reach 195 ..that's it.
 
rsylxstr , hows it going ?


If we may , lets sorta start this again . ( Keep in mind I've messed up my bold/graemlins - java script thing so CAPS are FOR EMPHASIS ONLY )


Quote:


how bad of an idea is it to run the 180 degree thermostat in my 2001 F150 5.4L?







1 (( Short answer ; DEPENDS . ))






1a (( Somewhat longer answer ; somewhere between very bad - to ( OK - marginal tradeoff net benefit//not worth - worth doing ) - to good/ great idea ))










on another forum, i'm hearing it will make it wear faster (( AND/OR COST MORE TO OPERATE )) and i should change the oil every 1k miles.





(( Again , that would Depend on a lot of things not covered ))





BTW, i'm running a K&N Series 77, cat back exhaust and Hypertech Power Programmer




MC5W20 said the following in various posts here, and his comments are a very good foundation to work up from .

( my mods in (( )) . Also some unaccounted for editing .


A ) I disagree with this 100% ((60 - 90%)). I will even go farther and say about the above - you (( are taking the/a special case(s) for the general case )) (( and have over generalized somewhat in regards to )) what your talking about.


B ) Under no (( limited - to very limited )) circumstances should you change your thermostat (( 15 degrees )) ON YOUR 2001 Ford F150 with the information we have so far , with the mods listed , and operated in upstate/central NY State .

This is subject to change with more information .


C ) Your computer (( and your engine/engine subsystems in general are optimized under certain assumptions so it )) is calibrated for this (( thermostat function/ )) temperature.

D ) (( One of )) The most mis-understood aspect of modern gas engines and the computers that control them is the importance of the hi-temp OEM thermostat.
(( Yep , although I wouldn't call a 195 hi temp - also need Cap pressure . ))



E ) (( It is more common/quite possible )) I assure you , if you change it (( -15 )) you will (( may/likely / need to investigate farther to prevent/determine )) lose way more then 1/10 of a MPG (( and maybe more importantly , depending , could create other undesirable outcomes/tradeoffs as well. Then again in regards to fuel economy , maybe not AND with a HYPERTECH IT (MAY) DEPEND(S) ON HOW YOU DRIVE/USE IT -it might even be " higher " ))


F ) All around (( For 80 -90% of the people/ 80 - 100% of the time its just a bad (( inefficient or good to poor second/third choice )) idea to change to a lower (( 15 degree )) temp stat.
I once was of the opinion lower temperature was better. It took me a lot of research and reading technical papers to change that way of thinking .

G ) Your fooling yourself if you think a hotter thermostat is ONLY used for better fuel economy.(( Yep ))

H ) I never said engines didn't wear ACCEPTABly at lower thermostat temps. Just making the point that they (( more often/usually when considered as a power plant/cost SYSTEM )) wear better at the (( factory optimised )) higher temp.


I ) Thermostat changes (( AND MALFUNCTIONS FROM SLUGGISH to small to large )) are why people have a lot of "unexplained" problems on computer contolled cars/trucks
(( Big time YEP . ))
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So then , there are the special cases ie 20 - 10% of the people/20 - 1% of the time where its a OK/good/great move .

( Good move arbitrary definition - acceptable trade off for useable gain - ALWAYS IN THE EYE OF THE BEHOLDER. )


....................................................................................................................................................................................

Gary Allen covers the most important situation/concept ( GENERAL/SPECIFIC DEPENDING ) where gain could/does occur here .

" There's no gain to running a 180F thermostat in one spec'd for 195F unless it's in a Hi-per " ((AND/OR HIGH LOAD/HIGH HEAT - GENERALLY RPM INDEPENDENT )) setup (( situation )) where your WOT ( not necc . although agreed more common/important ) -

- (( RPM/THROTTLE SETTING/ ( air/fuel mix. )/ LOAD MATRIX ie " engine HEAT GENERATION/COMBUSTION CHAMBER PRESSURE )) event " overwhelms " your cooling system

(( OR WHEN THRU CYLINDER HEAD TEMP/PRESSURE VALUES - FUEL DISTRIBUTION PERFORMANCE ETC YOUR OPTIMAL SPARK ADVANCE SCHEDULE IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE/SELECTED OR WORSE , " YOUR SYSTEM " CAN'T RETARD ENOUGH TO PREVENT PREIGNITION/DETONATION WITH THE OCTANE/FUEL/ " CONTROLLER MOD " YOU ARE RUNNING AT THAT MOMENT .

Variation on a theme ;

(( AND/ OR really warms up your clyinderhead/piston assembly/combustion chamber surfaces/deposits )).

......................................................................


It will give you whatever time that it takes to reach 195 ..that's it. "


(( which may be useful if you're really cutting it close OR LOOKING FOR A BURST MODE KIND OF " BOOST " but more typically is too short to give much practical benefit .

(( More specifically to your situation/application this type of logic also applies to when a more agressive Spark advance schedule is applied/or could be applied for gain as well - so again , theres the general case the special case and YOUR case and it depends .))

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I posted earlier and I'm going to flesh out the following ;


Personally , I wouldn't want a 180 in upstate NY in the winter .
( Unless I was plowing/towing and seeing substantially elevated coolant temps on a fully functional/maintained strong running engine .



(( As far as trans goes I WOULD HAVE ALREADY SUBSTANTIALLY upgraded many things - or I wouldn't be using this truck for these purposes ))



I would recognise this as a somewhat 1/2 a**ed but acceptable 1 season solution until I could properly upgrade my cooling system .



" Given your other mods/and street use ( intake/exhaust mods which hopefully , in situations where it would be helpful , already are giving you a small but useable net decrease in " knock/ detonation tendency "

........................................................................................................................

These are some of the cases that G A/myself are talking about - including the ones where you really don't want to have to stop .



" - on a maintained engine thats not towing large and heavy up a big hill ( fast or slow )..............................I'm not sure what you would really accomplish and if it would be worth it "
 
Quote:


not running hot, just listening to the hype of www.hypertech.com

they say with the low temp, the MPG won't suffer because that's where the Hypertech kicks in...






See , I didn't look all around at their site , but based on their bit on the thermostat they do sell ........this doesn't appear to be the case .



" I haven't gone much farther than this on their site ; "


Trying to let you know this needs more checking out - should have written more/better .


" To complete your performance package, Hypertech recommends the use of a low-temp thermostat to COMPLIMENT ( ONLY ) the performance tuning found in the Hypertech Power Tuning products."



" A PowerStat low-temp thermostat improves performance in two ways: "


" first by inducing less heat into the intake air and second by reducing the engine's tendency to detonate. "


NO MENTION - ALLOWS HYPERTECH TO ADD MORE ADVANCE / DIRECT EFFECT ON THE CONTROLLER .



In other words , this " sounds " like a general observation of only one positive aspect of a 180 for your Ford coupled with a second observation that helps cover people with " hotter " running engines regardless how they got there .

To me "sounds " like a CYA THATS USER FRIENDLY .




" I've always been fan of 2 position thermostats ( manual adj. ) when affordable and available - 2 big ifs . "

I said this because when they talk about a 180 FOR WINTER on an install that the OEM specs a 195 on that " sounds " like it could be a 2postion stat - which I have often found to be a really good/nice to have - kind of thing .

IE ;

" A 180 degree Powerstat is available for colder climates . View our Product Search or our Application Guide for - "




" There are alternative approaches as well . "



Just one possible example ;
40/60 distilled/DEXCOOL - GAO5 - WHATEVER ,
the correct dose of Redline Watter Wetter
AND a 195 might give you the best of all worlds .


" I think every other poster here has raised very valid points . "

Still think this - pretty much .
There is this topic in general ( 195 to 180 ),
then your vehicle specifically in this regard ,
and then your vehicle as modified , in your location , with the current season and weather AND how you use/drive it .

We are crossing these three and other things together so its a little bit muddy now .



( There is also your preferences/goals with this change . )


" Anyway I'd check this out over there - see what they do and why . "

Replaces factory thermostat
No modifications required
" Realize full potential of Hypertech Power Tuning "

I'd want a real good explanation as to what this last means exactly .


" 50-State Emissions-legal when used with Hypertech Power Tuning "

Also want a specific dicussion / understanding of this .

This is another reason I " THINK " this " MIGHT " be a 2 stepper .


.
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Quote:


180 degrees is NOT cold by any stretch of the imagination. You might possibly lose 1/10 of a MPG, but otherwise nothing will come of it. Stock engines had 180 degree thermostats for decades and ran fine.







We have now had ( USA ) 195/195 +s in mainstream/all season use much longer than 180s were .




Roughly 8 - 12 - 14 years vs. 32 - 34 - 36 .



( A lot of what people think were 180s were really 170 - 160s STD/ALL YEAR punctuated with some OPTIONAL 180 use in primarily winter/ cold climate / short distance driving .




Also when you consider 180/ 3.5 - 5 -7 - 9 lbs. System pressure vs. 195/12 - 18 - 22 lbs the " 180 days were cooler " in many ways by more than 180/195 - esp on a hot soak - right after shutdown .




More to the point here , combustion chamber surface temps were raised a lot more than 15 degrees - which helps explain why higher coolant temps AND pressures started coming on before MPG mattered - it was emissions .




( Its also worth noting kinda in reverse on this 2001 Ford F150 the assumption here is a stock ??? ( but higher than 12 lbs. ) system pressure , 180 or 195 )






The spark knock thing is a good point. " CHEERS "
 
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Hypertech wants you to run a lower thermostat because they advance the timing. The lower thermostat helps prevent spark knock. I ran a Hypertech programmer in a Firebird for 10 years with the stock theromstat with no problems and it ran great. I believe bad things happen with cold temps in a engine.




Hello LAGA ,
So I'm curious what you thought of that . Any details ?
 
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What he said. I run a 180 degree thermostat in my '00 Crown Victoria 4.6 which is basically the same engine. After 130,000 miles I think I have enough data to make an informed observation. No noticeable change in mileage (around 21 mpg at 70 mph). One thing that hasn't been mentioned is that when the engine is runnin' 15 degrees cooler so is the transmission.

If you are lookin' for a 180 degree thermostat the aftermarket ones don't seem to have the little bleed hole that the stock thermostat has which make it harder to get air out of the system. Ford (Motorcraft) makes a 180 degree thermosat for the Ford Lightning which has the bleed hole and is what I am using.




SWJ ,
Any other observations on that ?
 
" Then I might as well have no thermostat at all. "

You might want to think about your whole post and esp this one again .
 
Complete uneventful on the Crown Vic. The car has an temp gauge that is not marked with number so I can only report relative temperatures. There was a noticeable drop in the temperature that the car operates so the temperature is controlled by the thermostat most or all the time even here in sunny South Texas where the ambient temperature regularly tops 100 degrees F. The Motorcraft thermostats are better quality than the Stants.
 
While doing some searching on performance mods the Hypertech and Superchips and Jet chips all want you to run a lower thermostat. I have a custom flash on my 05 Mustang GT and I am looking into a flash for my Ram pickup. The custom flashes make no mention of lowering the engine temps. IMHO this tells me the programmers/chips rely on the PCM to think the car is in warm up mode and run rich. MOST of the time, more gas means more power. But running rich can lead to carbon build up which can cause knocking especially with advanced timing.
 
I had a 180 in the Firebird which lasted until the first winter. The car took a LONG time to warm up and was uncomfortable to drive in the cold. I do not have one in the Mustang or the Ram which has the Jet chip in it now.
 
thanks all.
i think i'll keep the stock stat and just run the 93 octane program with my power programmer...works so far.
 
I use a Napa 180 degree thermostat in my 98 Mark VIII, I have the ECU reprogrammed with an SCT chip for the thermostat, the program also lets the fan come on the same time the thermostat opens. It works well, the chip also advances the timing. BTW, Motorcraft doesn't make a 180 degree thermostat, they are actually 190 degrees when tested in boiling water.
 
Hummm personally i would not bother using a thermostat rated at lower than 180°f... but it is also what's in my Mazda and it works great... But i heard these 2.5l V6 had a tendency to overheat in severe climate\operating conditions so...

Marko!
 
i have the question of going to a 195 in my truck, right now it has a 180 but it seems to stay at 165, with dex cool, do you guys think i should put the 195 in it for the winter or put it in and leave it?
 
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