Looking to buy a Tahoe or Suburban. What to look for or avoid?

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Feb 19, 2013
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Prospect, KY
I am considering buying a used Tahoe or Suburban and want to stay below$10k. Wanted to know about motor and or transmission issues. I see some older ones are 4 speed and slightly newer ones are 6 speed. Also do all of the 5.3 engines have cylinder deactivation. Think I prefer avoiding that.
Thanks
 
Rust is a biggie-the further south you go, the better the odds of finding a rust-free one. If you're looking at half ton ones, and they have a 4L60E transmission, try to find one that's been rebuilt and updated if it's ever towed or hauled heavy. And the usual Dexcool issues from 1997 to at least when the LS engines were released.
 
Rust as stated above. They are great vehicles I think they had some transmission issues at one point not sure exactly which years. Usually they are loaded with miles I especially like the 2007 and back ones.
 
2000-2006 Tahoe/Yukon was the GMT800 platform. 4.8/5.3 Gen III LS with NO cylinder deactivation. Transmission was a 4L60E. These are becoming harder to find clean, but otherwise very good trucks. Torsion bar suspension.

2007-2014 Is the next generation Tahoe, based on the GMT900 platform. 2007-2009 5.3 has DoD/AFM (Displacement on Demand/Active Fuel Management) cylinder-deactivation. 2010-2014 5.3 has DoD/AFM and VVT (variable valve timing). Transmission from 2007-2009 (although I've seen some 2009 with 6L80E) is a 4L60E, 2010 and up is a 6L80E.

Many schools of thought on this topic. I myself am looking for a 2007-2009 Tahoe with a 4L60E as I have one ready in the event of needing one. Some hate the 4L60E. Those are people who have had GM trucks with them, never do a fluid/filter change, and get mad when the trans is smoked at 150k HARD miles. If you maintain a 4L60E, they'll last. Plus in the event of a rebuild, they are cheap to rebuild. They have been around for forever and a half.

The 6L80E is a good trans as well. Better gear ratios, better for towing, clutch on clutch shifting. They can hold a lot of power. I cannot speak to their longevity, but I have friends with them in early 2010s Silverados who have yet to maintain them and they're at 120k+.

I don't really think 6L80E will have much MPG improvement over a 4L60E in a truck.

DoD can be deleted, there's many posts on here about it. You can disable it in HPTuners or with a handheld... if your AFM lifters and cam are in good shape. But if you have a lifter tick and or want to fully delete it -- Plan for a $1k at least in parts if you're going to do minimal. If you don't want to deal with DoD at all, look for a 2000-2006.

EDIT: ^+1, yes Clinebarger will have the total gospel and what to do. Fella is an absolute scholar when it comes to LS and GM trans.
 
At that pricepoint, I prefer the GMT800s. Pre-06 as mentioned above.

Visually, I'd look for rusty brake lines, transfer case leakage due to pump rub, gauge cluster functionality, and body rust. In addition, if equipped with rear A/C, the lines going to the rear TXV/evap can develop pinholes.

Go for a drive and feel out the transmission. Some (4L60E) go at 125k, some last 300k. Depends on how it was treated. The newest 800 Suburbans and Tahoes are now 14 years old, so they're going to be needy at times - just the nature of the beast. The GMT800 is one of my favorite truck platforms of all time.
 
2000-2006 Tahoe/Yukon was the GMT800 platform. 4.8/5.3 Gen III LS with NO cylinder deactivation. Transmission was a 4L60E. These are becoming harder to find clean, but otherwise very good trucks. Torsion bar suspension.

2007-2014 Is the next generation Tahoe, based on the GMT900 platform. 2007-2009 5.3 has DoD/AFM (Displacement on Demand/Active Fuel Management) cylinder-deactivation. 2010-2014 5.3 has DoD/AFM and VVT (variable valve timing). Transmission from 2007-2009 (although I've seen some 2009 with 6L80E) is a 4L60E, 2010 and up is a 6L80E.

Many schools of thought on this topic. I myself am looking for a 2007-2009 Tahoe with a 4L60E as I have one ready in the event of needing one. Some hate the 4L60E. Those are people who have had GM trucks with them, never do a fluid/filter change, and get mad when the trans is smoked at 150k HARD miles. If you maintain a 4L60E, they'll last. Plus in the event of a rebuild, they are cheap to rebuild. They have been around for forever and a half.

The 6L80E is a good trans as well. Better gear ratios, better for towing, clutch on clutch shifting. They can hold a lot of power. I cannot speak to their longevity, but I have friends with them in early 2010s Silverados who have yet to maintain them and they're at 120k+.

I don't really think 6L80E will have much MPG improvement over a 4L60E in a truck.

DoD can be deleted, there's many posts on here about it. You can disable it in HPTuners or with a handheld... if your AFM lifters and cam are in good shape. But if you have a lifter tick and or want to fully delete it -- Plan for a $1k at least in parts if you're going to do minimal. If you don't want to deal with DoD at all, look for a 2000-2006.

EDIT: ^+1, yes Clinebarger will have the total gospel and what to do. Fella is an absolute scholar when it comes to LS and GM trans.
Yeah … we had a 2005 - 107k trouble free miles … gave it to my son who drove it a year or so …
 
At that pricepoint, I prefer the GMT800s. Pre-06 as mentioned above.

Visually, I'd look for rusty brake lines, transfer case leakage due to pump rub, gauge cluster functionality, and body rust. In addition, if equipped with rear A/C, the lines going to the rear TXV/evap can develop pinholes.

Go for a drive and feel out the transmission. Some (4L60E) go at 125k, some last 300k. Depends on how it was treated. The newest 800 Suburbans and Tahoes are now 14 years old, so they're going to be needy at times - just the nature of the beast. The GMT800 is one of my favorite truck platforms of all time.
I believe the pump rub issues ended in 2007 when Chevy went to Magna Powertrain ( MP ) Transfer cases. I think your $10,000 would get you into a GMT 900 with the updated look if that is worth anything to you. :)

For all 1/2 ton versions spray rust inhibitor on the sway bar mounting points. They can rip out if rusted.
 
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Yeah, pump rub is not an issue on the 900s. There are also a few Borg-Warner cases that were used on the 800s, where it wasn't an issue, either.

I'm not a fan of the 900s. Not judging, though! I know some love them.
 
If you can find a cherry Antique besides rust they were simple to maintain.

I have driven various 2wd diesel suburbans over the years, had a 5 speed stick, positive traction and 438,000 miles on the 82 before it got too rusty to mess with.

Avoid Suburbans with 700r4’s and older 4Lxx transmissions, they were bad on and off in various years the 4L60’s tend to get sloppy faster. The fuel pumps inevitably die and the top of the gas tank eventually rusts out.

I’m not really a fan of newer Suburbans and always figured someday I would get an antique setup with a diesel, heck even the old 3 and 2 door versions have their own charm
 
Yeah, pump rub is not an issue on the 900s. There are also a few Borg-Warner cases that were used on the 800s, where it wasn't an issue, either.

I'm not a fan of the 900s. Not judging, though! I know some love them.
There's 2 different single speed AWD T-cases used in GMT800's......
*New Venture 149, Viscous Clutch style. Earlier Escalades & Denali's got these before Stabilitrak. (Silverado SS also used this T-case)
*Borg Warner 44-81, Needs Stabilitrak to operate.

Then there's a 2-speed AWD T-case that also required Stabilitrak to function......The Borg Warner 44-82.


None of these had Pump Rub issues.
 
There's 2 different single speed AWD T-cases used in GMT800's......
*New Venture 149, Viscous Clutch style. Earlier Escalades & Denali's got these before Stabilitrak. (Silverado SS also used this T-case)
*Borg Warner 44-81, Needs Stabilitrak to operate.

Then there's a 2-speed AWD T-case that also required Stabilitrak to function......The Borg Warner 44-82.


None of these had Pump Rub issues.
We had the later … IIRC it had the Kelsey-Hayes braking system …
I did an unplanned test on the stability system …
It truly saved my tail and the dashboard “wagged a finger at me” 👀
 
4WD is highly preferred. Don't think there is a good diesel option in the US so was planning on gas.
Not towing too much. I have a lightweight 4X8 harbor freight trailer for small short trips or occasionally might rent a uhaul trailer but very rare. Mainly a people hauler and occasional off road and bad weather vehicle.
 
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