Just as good as their Motor Oil's.
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This is the only place where you will find the Truth!
Looking for An Amsoil Education
- Thread starter Shrike9
- Start date
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- Joined
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I hate to say it, but you’re quite wrong in regards to these AMSOIL filters. There are quite a few members myself included that have posted threads about these AMSOIL filters and their internal manufacturing issues and their leak points.
Yes, I jumped into Amsoil and had high hopes for the filters, after reading some disturbing reports here on BITOG I'm holding off until they get sorted out, probably have to change supplier as Champion is still involved with the Best Brands debacle. Based on what's available locally, im trying the Mobil1 M110a sourced in Vietnam, other than 30 vs 20 micron efficiency seems to be well built. The Signature oils are an investment in longevity.
Once upon a time, Amsoil (was called Amzoil before( prided themselves by only offering Group IV base stock oils only (purchasing the PAO from Exxon-Mobil). Their 10w40 was the first synthetic oil to meet API certification in early 70's, hence they used the tagline "First in Synthetics"
Over the years, as they expanded their market, they started to introduce Group III base stocks into their newer lines.
Over the years, as they expanded their market, they started to introduce Group III base stocks into their newer lines.
Can you really brew an engine oil with Group 4 only? I am sure they were mixing with group 3 or 5.
To be fair though, everything I could find so far shows GTL is a fantastic base oil.
Myself.......I am an avid Amsoil user .....just recently a friend got interersted and decided to give Amsoil a shot.
He drives a Nissan Patrol with the 3Ltr ZD30 4 cylinder ( ZD30......much hated by many !!) .The engine is newly built and is fitted with a larger Turbo and intercooler........really pumps out some heat when loaded at high boost..
He has been running Penrite Diesel and later switched to one of the Mobil Diesel oils. ( about 20K km on the engine since rebuild)
He recently changed to the Amsoil Diesel SS 15w-40 .
He was quite shocked on how "Quiet" the ZD30 now runs !! He is also getting slightly lower engine temps when loaded...
So another Amsoil "Convert" ..
He drives a Nissan Patrol with the 3Ltr ZD30 4 cylinder ( ZD30......much hated by many !!) .The engine is newly built and is fitted with a larger Turbo and intercooler........really pumps out some heat when loaded at high boost..
He has been running Penrite Diesel and later switched to one of the Mobil Diesel oils. ( about 20K km on the engine since rebuild)
He recently changed to the Amsoil Diesel SS 15w-40 .
He was quite shocked on how "Quiet" the ZD30 now runs !! He is also getting slightly lower engine temps when loaded...
So another Amsoil "Convert" ..
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I've been using amsoil exclusively since 2016, it's a great oil. The 0W-40 SS made my previous scat pack and Hellcat hemi tick go away, the 0W-20 kept my 2021 silverado 5.3 going.
Currently using 0W-20 SS in my wife's Toyota, I'm using the 100% synthetic diesel oil 5W-30 in my 3.0 duramax and about to switch to max duty 10W-30. My race car was using Dominator 10W-30 until I made the switch to HPL BARO 5-30
Amsoil's MLM turns a lot of people off, but the product is top tier.
Currently using 0W-20 SS in my wife's Toyota, I'm using the 100% synthetic diesel oil 5W-30 in my 3.0 duramax and about to switch to max duty 10W-30. My race car was using Dominator 10W-30 until I made the switch to HPL BARO 5-30
Amsoil's MLM turns a lot of people off, but the product is top tier.
Group III wasn't a thing back in the 70's. So, a little conventional oil was used to mix with the detergents. Not enough conventional to make a difference in the base stock performance
GTL is more of a recent development in the Group III category
This exact filter issue is what made me choose to let me preferred customer status lapse this year for the first time in 8ish years. Amsoil customer service is excellent, their oils are great, but this filter vendor QC issue was unacceptable. I look forward to their finding another supplier able to uphold their brand, but as it is their current supply line is not doing well IME. I will likely be back ASAP as a PC once they advertise their changing vendors for their oil filters, but that remains to be realized.
Folks like @Pablo are a class act here and are great stewards of the brand too with a great knowledge base to draw on. I am glad I stumbled into the bitog forum a few years ago and have learned a TON from being here.
The first thing to remember is we’re all at BITOG for a reason. We’re going to always be learning a little more and doing a little more for our own piece of mind. AMSOIL is one vendor that I personally like because cost isn’t the primary focus, it’s quality. Im
Not an AMSOIL fanboy either. I find great products with other vendors as well. AMSOIL, at least until they came out with a semi synthetic, went for quality over quantity. Marketing - I get it they needed to find a way to get the name out, is the main reason I never used them. Didn’t like the practices and don’t want to support someone doing infomercials. I want to trust the results not the sales pitch. So it took a while to get me on board, but their products are quality. It’s kinda like Apple. I don’t really like the company or the image it tried to cater to and would leave if I really could but frankly they’re the best. Just solid products.
There are many other oils that are great for the ICE. I’m a huge fan of Quaker State Euro for the $$$ but to be honest I’m not worried about the $30 difference over a year. Also with their preferred customer it’s really not outlandish in price.
I just bought a 2008 178k mile GMC 2500HD 6.6l Duramax and changed all the fluids to Amsoil. The truck ran fine when I bought it but it seems much smoother and happier now. Could simply be because the diffs and everything welcomed a fluid change, to any fluid, but I decided to put in what I wanted.
In my Grenadier I’ve been using Molygen, honestly just because it’s a quality oil with robust additive package, I change it often, and I like the bottles because they’re easy to grab and store in the slide out drawers I have in the back. I may go Amsoil but when off-roading and eating tons of dust I’m not going for long OCIs in the first place. But for something that’s mostly on roads and could face harsh conditions like 105+ degree heat sitting in Houston traffic and hauling around 2k lbs in a backbed and hauling trailers, I don’t mind paying the premium in the least. To me, I’ll never run it the long OCIs the tout, I just feel better knowing it’s there and should I find myself in a scenario where I’m to be doing very demanding things I don’t worry as much. This year I wasn’t flying much due to grenading an engine on my jet so spent the summer at my home town helping a buddy farm 3,000 acres and suddenly my pavement princesses were knee deep in muddy rice fields, hauling heaving equipment, seed/fertilizer, etc. In those extremes I just feel better. Uncle Jimmy who’s notorious for being hard on equipment has 280k miles on his 2016 LML Duramax, at least 50% towing goosenecks with cattle and farm
Equipment in the Texas heat and hasn’t had his truck in the shop once while running the cheapest off the shelf oil possible and changing it whenever he finally found the time lol.
It’s all sales pitch about what you truly need, doesn’t mean the more I learn the more I can’t want something that’s still better. I never know when it will be what makes the difference. I had an off road mishap in my Grenadier and I feel the oils saved it when it shouldn’t have made it. Completely anecdotal, sure, but had she died on me I’d have wondered it it’s because I cheaped out. Supertech can get the job done and while it might hold a certain spec it isn’t going to be on the same level as premium oils. It’s fine for 99% of people but I certainly do more than them so going top tier just removes a variable to worry about. AMSOIL is cheaper than 300v, Redline, HPL, so it will be my go to.
Not an AMSOIL fanboy either. I find great products with other vendors as well. AMSOIL, at least until they came out with a semi synthetic, went for quality over quantity. Marketing - I get it they needed to find a way to get the name out, is the main reason I never used them. Didn’t like the practices and don’t want to support someone doing infomercials. I want to trust the results not the sales pitch. So it took a while to get me on board, but their products are quality. It’s kinda like Apple. I don’t really like the company or the image it tried to cater to and would leave if I really could but frankly they’re the best. Just solid products.
There are many other oils that are great for the ICE. I’m a huge fan of Quaker State Euro for the $$$ but to be honest I’m not worried about the $30 difference over a year. Also with their preferred customer it’s really not outlandish in price.
I just bought a 2008 178k mile GMC 2500HD 6.6l Duramax and changed all the fluids to Amsoil. The truck ran fine when I bought it but it seems much smoother and happier now. Could simply be because the diffs and everything welcomed a fluid change, to any fluid, but I decided to put in what I wanted.
In my Grenadier I’ve been using Molygen, honestly just because it’s a quality oil with robust additive package, I change it often, and I like the bottles because they’re easy to grab and store in the slide out drawers I have in the back. I may go Amsoil but when off-roading and eating tons of dust I’m not going for long OCIs in the first place. But for something that’s mostly on roads and could face harsh conditions like 105+ degree heat sitting in Houston traffic and hauling around 2k lbs in a backbed and hauling trailers, I don’t mind paying the premium in the least. To me, I’ll never run it the long OCIs the tout, I just feel better knowing it’s there and should I find myself in a scenario where I’m to be doing very demanding things I don’t worry as much. This year I wasn’t flying much due to grenading an engine on my jet so spent the summer at my home town helping a buddy farm 3,000 acres and suddenly my pavement princesses were knee deep in muddy rice fields, hauling heaving equipment, seed/fertilizer, etc. In those extremes I just feel better. Uncle Jimmy who’s notorious for being hard on equipment has 280k miles on his 2016 LML Duramax, at least 50% towing goosenecks with cattle and farm
Equipment in the Texas heat and hasn’t had his truck in the shop once while running the cheapest off the shelf oil possible and changing it whenever he finally found the time lol.
It’s all sales pitch about what you truly need, doesn’t mean the more I learn the more I can’t want something that’s still better. I never know when it will be what makes the difference. I had an off road mishap in my Grenadier and I feel the oils saved it when it shouldn’t have made it. Completely anecdotal, sure, but had she died on me I’d have wondered it it’s because I cheaped out. Supertech can get the job done and while it might hold a certain spec it isn’t going to be on the same level as premium oils. It’s fine for 99% of people but I certainly do more than them so going top tier just removes a variable to worry about. AMSOIL is cheaper than 300v, Redline, HPL, so it will be my go to.
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Im no oil expert
I have ran almost everything on the walmart shelf including supertech a few times in both my GM 5.3 engines
251,000 & 239,000 on them. Always Synthetic W/4,000 to 6,000 k oil changes.
I like to think they still have lots of life left because they run good no smoke, no sludge that I can see.
Would it be any different w/Amsoil ?
Not sure any oil would be good w/10-20k changes. Gotta get the dirty oil out
I have ran almost everything on the walmart shelf including supertech a few times in both my GM 5.3 engines
251,000 & 239,000 on them. Always Synthetic W/4,000 to 6,000 k oil changes.
I like to think they still have lots of life left because they run good no smoke, no sludge that I can see.
Would it be any different w/Amsoil ?
Not sure any oil would be good w/10-20k changes. Gotta get the dirty oil out
Getting that dirty oil out is what keeps me from going to very long changes. How does that work?
I wouldn't change a thing with your results!
I've never been one to extend oil changes too far, trying to keep on a 5k miles OCI cadence. My choice to run Amsoil since 1976 was due to wanting to use "the best" oil possible for the longest engine, transmission, differential, etc. life. Along the way, I've also gotten higher fuel mileage and cooler operating temperatures. To me, these things are just a bonus. Should an extended OCI happen due to circumstances beyond my control, I know the Amsoil has my back until it's next changed.
In the past 50 years, oil technology has come a very long way. I'm going to give HPL Premium Plus PCMO a go, but will keep the 5k cadence, at least until the HPL and Pilot have a chance to get to know each other and are enjoying each other's company based on used oil analysis, filter inspections, and whatever logical and illogical perceptions come my way.
The Oil Filters are fine.
This leaking thin means nothing, take 2 engines, 1 uses this Amsoil oil filter that has these so-called issues, and another engine uses the so-called perfect oil filter for 200K or 300K, there will be no difference in engine longevity. The most important thing is to use a good oil like AMSOIL Signature Series and to also use a good Air Filter.
Another thing that needs to be made clear, is that Amsoil does not make their own Oil Filters, if Amsoil made oil filters like there AMSOIL Signature Series oil's, it would be awesome.
Maybe for you. But numerous QC issues noted here, and even @Pablo recommends avoiding for now.
Can you show some evidence for this claim? Also, why would you want to spend $20 for a leaking filter?
I thought you said they were fine?
And how do we know this?
They are fine, but they could be made better. LOL
We may never know, but plenty of Lawnmower Engines and VW Engines back in the day had no oil filters and they ran fine.
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