Brand new Dodge Challenger SE - Looking for advice

[Craigotron]

Hello. I'm a sometime lurker but just got my new first car ever and plan on taking vehicle maintenance very seriously. I'm still learning about... well.. everything but have been referred to this site by numerous people and just reading around. I want to know when it is OK to switch to synthetic, proper intervals and any brand (oil and filter recommendations) you may have. I'm comfortable with keeping with the manufactures recommendation or shorter intervals. Other details? Going to put in an oil catch can sooner than later.

1. What kind of vehicle you have
2010 Dodge Challenger SE w/ 250 miles on the clock.

2. What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and change intervals as well

Change interval looks like 6000 miles.

Manual says:

"For best performance and maximum protection under all types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only recommends engine oils that are API Certified and meet the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395."

"Engine Oil Viscosity (SAE Grade) – 3.5L Engine
SAE 10w30 engine oil is preferred for for all operating temperatures."

3. Where you live
I live in Laramie, Wyoming. It is considered high elevation (7200') and winters here are long (October to mid-May can have below freezing temps) and severe; air temps can regularly hit as low as -20 with no wind chill factored in.

4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?)
Spirited but I keep a lid on it in town for the most part. Save the fun for the trucks on I-80.

5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?)
Short to very short; Laramie is small so its usually 2 miles. Highway trips/airport trips on alternating weekends usually (about 150 miles, mostly highway).

6. Whether your car has any known problems
None. Brand spanking new; air conditioner didn't come charged.

Current plans are to get my free change between 500-1000 miles just to get any factory shavings out and then would like to know where to go from there? Want to switch to synthetic, will have an oil catch can installed soon. Thanks in advance for your help; this looks like an awesome forum.

 

[hounddog]

Amsoil XL 5w20.Quality filter of your choice.Can be ordered and delivered to your door. I use Wix filters I get through Amsoil or if dealer is doing it a factory filter with my oil.If yours has a message center the first oil change message seems to be around 2500.After that between 5k and 6k. 6k being the maximum mileage.I have 20k on my 09 5.7 Hemi 1500 truck.

 

[Mustang Man]

Based on what you said and that it uses 10w30, I would suggest Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30 and a Wix oil filter. The 0w30 will be the same viscosity at operating temperature as the 10w30 but will flow much more easily in the cold and at start up. JMO.

You can get the oil in a 5 qt. jug at Wal-Mart for $21 and the filter will run you a little over $3 but I don't think Wal-Mart carries Wix filters so you might have to get it at Autozone, etc.

 

[Unleashedbeast]

#1 pick for me would be AMSOIL Signature Series 0w30 with an EaO50 oil filter and run it all year. Looks like you will only see ~13,000 miles per year. It's also the recommended oil for your car on Amsoil's website.

You can even support Gary or Pablo here by doing so.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Since you have a lifetime power-train warranty I'd make sure you follow the manual and run an API rated oil. The Amsoil dealer above with the XL suggestion is API rated but I'd not run a 5w-20. The SSO is not. It could be an issue that I'd not risk.

Personally any syn (Pennzoil, QS, Valvoline, Amsoil XL only, Mobil 1) is going to be fine with 6k OCIs. With the -20 (engines could care less about wind chill as it does not matter) below I'd stick with a 5w30.

We are at 4700 Ft here and get well below zero and I run 5w30 for years with never a single problem.

They forgot to charge the AC? That's a good one....

Take care, bill

PS:

 

[Boomer]

I agree with Mustang Man. Go with the Mobil 1 0w30 and a high quality filter of your choice.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Since you have a lifetime power-train warranty I'd make sure you follow the manual and run an API rated oil. The Amsoil dealer above with the XL suggestion is API rated but I'd not run a 5w-20. The SSO is not. It could be an issue that I'd not risk.

Personally any syn (Pennzoil, QS, Valvoline, Amsoil XL only, Mobil 1) is going to be fine with 6k OCIs. With the -20 (engines could care less about wind chill as it does not matter) below I'd stick with a 5w30.

We are at 4700 Ft here and get well below zero and I run 5w30 for years with never a single problem.

They forgot to charge the AC? That's a good one....

Take care, bill

PS:

Bill there is no Lifetime Powertrain Warranty anymore. 09 was the last year I believe. His 2010 should have a 5year/100K PTW that is transferable( LPTW was not ).

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: Craigotron
......will have an oil catch can installed soon.


Won't this violate your warranty? No one has mentioned this. At least the emissions warranty might be voided.

Quote:
"...manufacturer only recommends engine oils that are API Certified and meet the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395."


Since these are the actual words, Amsoil 0w30 SSO will NOT violate your warranty. Recommend is different than require.

AMSOIL Signature Series 0w30 link

 

[chevrofreak]

Purolator PureONE filter, and Pennzoil Platinum 10w30.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: Craigotron
Hello. I'm a sometime lurker but just got my new first car ever and plan on taking vehicle maintenance very seriously. I'm still learning about... well.. everything but have been referred to this site by numerous people and just reading around. I want to know when it is OK to switch to synthetic, proper intervals and any brand (oil and filter recommendations) you may have. I'm comfortable with keeping with the manufactures recommendation or shorter intervals. Other details? Going to put in an oil catch can sooner than later.

1. What kind of vehicle you have
2010 Dodge Challenger SE w/ 250 miles on the clock.

2. What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and change intervals as well

Change interval looks like 6000 miles.

Manual says:

"For best performance and maximum protection under all types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only recommends engine oils that are API Certified and meet the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395."

"Engine Oil Viscosity (SAE Grade) – 3.5L Engine
SAE 10w30 engine oil is preferred for for all operating temperatures."

3. Where you live
I live in Laramie, Wyoming. It is considered high elevation (7200') and winters here are long (October to mid-May can have below freezing temps) and severe; air temps can regularly hit as low as -20 with no wind chill factored in.

4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?)
Spirited but I keep a lid on it in town for the most part. Save the fun for the trucks on I-80.

5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?)
Short to very short; Laramie is small so its usually 2 miles. Highway trips/airport trips on alternating weekends usually (about 150 miles, mostly highway).

6. Whether your car has any known problems
None. Brand spanking new; air conditioner didn't come charged.

Current plans are to get my free change between 500-1000 miles just to get any factory shavings out and then would like to know where to go from there? Want to switch to synthetic, will have an oil catch can installed soon. Thanks in advance for your help; this looks like an awesome forum.


Use the mfg spec'd weight and change it on time. Chrysler uses 5W-20 in just about everything now so the fact they are saying to use a 30 weight in your 3.5L V6 tells me there is a reason. They say use 10W to boot not a 5W as well whch is a real rarity these days. I would definitely stay with a 30 weight oil. I might consider a 5W during the dead of your winters but 10w30 is what I would run a good 9 months out of the year and never a 20 weight in your application.

Be sure the oil is API Certified with the Starburst, meets or exceeds Chrysler MS6395, and that you change it by the max time frame listed in your manual( 6 months or 6000 miles ). Very important, with Chrysler especially( they are very picky these days ), to follow the owner's manual guidelines. Don't use a different weight( again, 5w30 in the winter would be ok ), don't use non API certified oils, and most definitely do not extend your drain interval beyond what Chrysler allows for( 6/6000 ). When you are out of warranty do what you want. Until then stay with the manual.

Any of the name brand synthetics available out there are good for your use. I would personally pick from among the following...

Kendall GT1
Penzoil( Platinum or Ultra )
Valvoline Synpower

Grab a decent filter like Purolator, Wix/Napa Gold, Bosch, MOPAR, etc... and you are good to go for 6K.

 

[demarpaint]

The 10W30 caught my eye as well, interesting.

 

[mpvue]

go by the manual, done.
oil catch can? why? if the factory didn't install one, how/why could there possibly be a reason for it?

 

[JustinH]

In theory a homemade catch can would pick up oil vapors, and eventually collect some liquid oil before it gets sucked into the intake manifold.

I would not do this on a new car with a warranty, leave it alone until you get outside that warranty..

 

[TireDude]

For some reason, Chrysler recommends 10w30 in the 3.5's and 4.0's.

 

[kkreit01]

I was looking at Avengers recently, and also very surprised the 3.5 specs 10w30. Use what the manual says. chevrofreak's advice is good. You could substitute Wix, MC, or Mopar filter easily.

 

[Craigotron]

OK. Thanks for all the info so far. Here's a brief follow up:

Catch can: Checking on forums, maybe will check with the service guys at the dealership on the catch can vs. warranty. They seem to be a *very* popular add on as that engine seems to like to kick back oil into the intake manifold and can get up to an ounce every standard service interval.

Oil: I was thinking a good Mopar or NAPA Gold filter and just whatever matching weight synthetic to weather. The NAPA dealership in town is awesome so I like to support them.

I'm still confused on brands and don't mind springing for a premium. I'm thinking (in order):

Royal Purple
Mobil 1
Valvoline
Penzoil

is Royal Purple good? I've seen it but haven't heard too much about it.

As for weights? I'll be a good boy and match; will drop down to 5W when it gets cold.

Will this work?

 

[Mustang Man]

Don't let the #w scare you. It is only at start up even when cold outside. At operating temperature (about 10 minutes after start up), 0w30 will be just as or almost as thick as 5/10w-30 (it depends on the brand). You are getting the added benefit of better flow at start up which hopefully will mean less wear. That's my 2¢.

 

[Gene K]

Royal Purple is good oil but does not meet warranty requirements "SM/GF4". Its add pack makes it unable to pass the zinc / phosphorus levels.

M1 has the great iron debate (Im not going to comment. Use search and make up your own mind.)

Valvoline is certainly okay. Both the conventional and the Synpower.

I think most here would prefer Pennzoil of the conventionals. It would likely be just fine for 6000 mile drains.

If a synthetic makes you feel warm and fuzzy Pennzoil Platinum has a very good reputation and excellent UOA for the most part. Its also one of the better buys on the market. $20.50 for 5 Qt Jug at Walmart.

Filter I would go with the NAPA Gold (Wix) which is an excellent filter as Mopar has changed suppliers so many times I stopped trying to keep up.

5W30 Winter and 10W30 Summer.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: Craigotron
OK. Thanks for all the info so far. Here's a brief follow up:

Catch can: Checking on forums, maybe will check with the service guys at the dealership on the catch can vs. warranty. They seem to be a *very* popular add on as that engine seems to like to kick back oil into the intake manifold and can get up to an ounce every standard service interval.

Oil: I was thinking a good Mopar or NAPA Gold filter and just whatever matching weight synthetic to weather. The NAPA dealership in town is awesome so I like to support them.

I'm still confused on brands and don't mind springing for a premium. I'm thinking (in order):

Royal Purple
Mobil 1
Valvoline
Pennzoil

is Royal Purple good? I've seen it but haven't heard too much about it.

As for weights? I'll be a good boy and match; will drop down to 5W when it gets cold.

Will this work?



RP is very good oil but it does not meet your warranty requirements as it is not the correct API service level and does not have the Starburst. I would go with Valvoline or Pennzoil of the ones you list.

 

[SLCraig]

Originally Posted By: mpvue
go by the manual, done.
oil catch can? why? if the factory didn't install one, how/why could there possibly be a reason for it?


It's a common "problem" on lots of cars to have (too much) oil sucked into the intake via PCV or breather tube...

A MFR would never install one of those. There are plenty of people who have probably never opened their own hood.