Looking for a Intake Valve and Combustion cleaner like Seafoam

[OilSwag]

So I've seen before people not recommending Seafoam. In my fuel Berryman B-12 is what I run. I noticed they do make a top end cleaner like Seafoam but also a separate product for Air Intake and Throttle Body.

I ran Seafoam years ago with engine running thru an intake elbow about 6 inches in front of throttle body. I know there are a few routes to run a top end cleaner.

One of my questions is how would Berrymans intake valve and combustion cleaner be applied if they make a separate product for the Intake and Throttle Body?

The car is a 165K mile 99 Mercury Grand Marquis 4.6L. When I ran Seafoam in my mustang it ended up trashing my Idle Air Control Valve. The CEL for that sensor came on immediately. Made the car idle so so weird.

With today's products am I still in danger of ruining a IAC or oxygen sensors on a high mileage car? Or will it burn that loose stuff off anyway.

I'm looking forward to hearing about your recommendations. Someone also recommended me something from Hot Shots Secrets. There has to be something better than Seafoam right?

 

[OVERKILL]

Why do you think it needs cleaning?

 

[OilSwag]

Why do you think it needs cleaning?

Well it was always owned in my family by 60+ years olds. The only time they performed maintenance was when something was broken. For example the radiator coolant was brown. My Grandfather's bought a 99 model Grand Marquis car new used in 99 and kept great care of it until 04-05 than my mother got it.

 

[Thomas Campbell]

Amsoil makes a product called powerfoam

 

[joegreen]

What about water. You can suck in water and it steam cleans the combustion chamber. Just dont drown the engine.

 

[Dave9]

It is not a direct injection engine. I recommend that you do not add any *goop* to it, pending further information.

Do you have any issues? Is the compression too low? Is the fuel pressure too low? Is it misfiring?

Your mustang's IAC probably just needed taken off, carbon cleaned out, then situated vertically with a drop of light oil on the shaft to run down into the bushing. It's happened to all of us with aging Fords.

If you are burning excessive oil, a solvent won't solve that unless it is due to stuck piston rings, and then you will get *goop* out the exhaust and yet it might foul the cats or 02 sensors. I am still wondering what problem you are trying to solve. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

As far as something better, if you have a legit problem, then yes/no/maybe? Unless it is undriveable and about to go into a junkyard due to that, because it's not worth paying a shop to deal with, then you don't really want a "better" solvent that cleans all carbon/muck off fast, rather slow and steady so you aren't clogging up cats or depending on where you put the goop, the oil pickup in the pan.

Frankly on a '99 car, if it's not sentimental or destined to become a classic SUV, I would minimize extra maintenance costs, to do what the service intervals dictate (except ignore any omissions that assume a fluid is "lifetime"), and put the money saved in the bank because nothing lasts forever.

I'm a strong advocate of trying to maintain and keep things running *forever*, and very much feel like the devil you know on vehicle fitness is helpful, but also, there is the effort and cost to do so, on that vehicle which is probably not worth much more than $500 - covid adjusted and with newer tires, $1000.

I'm not suggesting that you abandon it, just to minimize costs and enjoy the cheapest ride of your life if it's not running poorly.

 

[MrBaumTastic]

I say, it's your car, do what you can handle. I may be wrong, but I'm pretty sure Berryman's is mostly acetone, certainly smells like it.

I'd go for it, unlikely it will cause harm. Possibly won't do any good though either, not without consistent applications over a long period of time.

Don't feel obligated to explain yourself to anyone by the way. It's a free country, do what you want because you want to. Your car doesn't need to have a problem for you to try a different chemical than what you normally run. The engine won't explode. Believe me or not, it takes a lot.

Me for instance, I have one of the least durable and reliable engines put in a production car, and I've not had issues using various fuel system cleaners, engine flushes, and intake cleaners. It's apples to oranges but I'm telling that you likely won't get a satisfying and conclusive answer to your question, here.

 

[OVERKILL]

Well it was always owned in my family by 60+ years olds. The only time they performed maintenance was when something was broken. For example the radiator coolant was brown. My Grandfather's bought a 99 model Grand Marquis car new used in 99 and kept great care of it until 04-05 than my mother got it.

OK, I ask because the Modulars don't really have a reputation for requiring intake valve or combustion chamber cleaning. It's a port-injected engine, which means that the back of the intake valve is always getting bathed in fuel, keeping it clean, so it's not like a DI engine where IVD's are a problem. These are also pretty clean running engines, so unless there's been mechanical issues affecting its state of tune, it probably doesn't have much in the chambers that need cleaning up either.

Is it running poorly or some other symptom that makes you think you've got some build-up? It's not going to hurt to buy a bottle of Gumout Regane fuel system cleaner, which is a PEA-based product proven to remove deposits, but it may not be beneficial either, if the injectors aren't in bad shape and there isn't much to clean-up.

 

[Glenda W.]

There’s an old technicians trick we use to do but if done incorrectly you could hydro lock your motor.

 

[D60]

There’s an old technicians trick we use to do but if done incorrectly you could hydro lock your motor.

I always appreciated the thought of feeding the windshield sprayer into the intake, then give the switch some blips while driving at higher RPM. I've never actually done it, but I like the concept

 

[Glenda W.]

I always appreciated the thought of feeding the windshield sprayer into the intake, then give the switch some blips while driving at higher RPM. I've never actually done it, but I like the concept

We would slowly feed water into the throttle body while keeping rpms up. The steam pouring out of the tailpipe was a sight to be seen! There is a feel to the process. Combustion chambers and valves would look new when finished!

 

[OilSwag]

It is not a direct injection engine. I recommend that you do not add any *goop* to it, pending further information.

Do you have any issues? Is the compression too low? Is the fuel pressure too low? Is it misfiring?

Your mustang's IAC probably just needed taken off, carbon cleaned out, then situated vertically with a drop of light oil on the shaft to run down into the bushing. It's happened to all of us with aging Fords.

If you are burning excessive oil, a solvent won't solve that unless it is due to stuck piston rings, and then you will get *goop* out the exhaust and yet it might foul the cats or 02 sensors. I am still wondering what problem you are trying to solve. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

As far as something better, if you have a legit problem, then yes/no/maybe? Unless it is undriveable and about to go into a junkyard due to that, because it's not worth paying a shop to deal with, then you don't really want a "better" solvent that cleans all carbon/muck off fast, rather slow and steady so you aren't clogging up cats or depending on where you put the goop, the oil pickup in the pan.

Frankly on a '99 car, if it's not sentimental or destined to become a classic SUV, I would minimize extra maintenance costs, to do what the service intervals dictate (except ignore any omissions that assume a fluid is "lifetime"), and put the money saved in the bank because nothing lasts forever.

I'm a strong advocate of trying to maintain and keep things running *forever*, and very much feel like the devil you know on vehicle fitness is helpful, but also, there is the effort and cost to do so, on that vehicle which is probably not worth much more than $500 - covid adjusted and with newer tires, $1000.

I'm not suggesting that you abandon it, just to minimize costs and enjoy the cheapest ride of your life if it's not running poorly.

Car is down now after making this thread with a severe misfire under load or at low rpm. I have to drop it down a gear and drive at 3000 or so rpms to get it to accelerate. It was a slow oncoming issue I prepared for in advance. In the process of replacing plugs, air filter, MAF and IAT cleaner spray stuff, fuel filter and PCV valve.

 

[OilSwag]

OK, I ask because the Modulars don't really have a reputation for requiring intake valve or combustion chamber cleaning. It's a port-injected engine, which means that the back of the intake valve is always getting bathed in fuel, keeping it clean, so it's not like a DI engine where IVD's are a problem. These are also pretty clean running engines, so unless there's been mechanical issues affecting its state of tune, it probably doesn't have much in the chambers that need cleaning up either.

Is it running poorly or some other symptom that makes you think you've got some build-up? It's not going to hurt to buy a bottle of Gumout Regane fuel system cleaner, which is a PEA-based product proven to remove deposits, but it may not be beneficial either, if the injectors aren't in bad shape and there isn't much to clean-up.

There’s an old technicians trick we use to do but if done incorrectly you could hydro lock your motor.

It started with a barely noticeable miss under load at low rpms and developed from there. I explained more in the reply above

Glenda what is the water process. If I could keep it running. Could I get a spray bottle and shoot squirt at a time through the throttle body or close.

I'm not scared to do it but I don't know how much or the route to do it. I guess I could research water injection in performance vehicles to see how much is actually going in

 

[Donald]

Techron. You want a PIA based product. Follow the directions. .I use Techron (in the gas) after every oil change.

 

[OVERKILL]

Car is down now after making this thread with a severe misfire under load or at low rpm. I have to drop it down a gear and drive at 3000 or so rpms to get it to accelerate. It was a slow oncoming issue I prepared for in advance. In the process of replacing plugs, air filter, MAF and IAT cleaner spray stuff, fuel filter and PCV valve.

That's a dead coil. VERY common on these engines.

 

[f355spider]

As others suggested, proper diagnosis first. But if you need an intake/valve cleaner, use this stuff.
https://metro24wholesale.com/order-...gine-cylindercombustion-chamber-cleaner-32-oz