Looking for a good battery for my 2018 Ram 1500 Limited

And see, this is where I’m getting confused because there’s people that say they do this without issue and then there’s people saying that unless it came with an AGM battery, that I shouldn’t put one in there.

Well, from what I read- now, it may be wrong because I don’t know the source, but from what I read, vehicles that have a high power draw, are driven short distances and sit a lot would benefit from an AGM battery and well, my truck does fit that description aside from coming with an AGM battery but my truck does sit quite a bit, I do drive it a lot of short distances and well, with me having a 600 W subwoofer system under my rear seat, I think that would classify as a high power draw.

AGM batteries do perform better under more demanding duty cycles, like start/stop applications, as well as having lower self-discharge rates, and better durability, at least in theory.

They also have their own particular charging needs, and like to be kept at higher states of charge than FLA batteries, or their durability may suffer. They rely on the recombination of the gases produced during charging (which are normally vented to the atmosphere in a FLA battery) to maintain capacity.

While designed to operate as a sealed, non-venting unit under normal use, they do still contain a relief valve to allow venting under abnormal conditions, like if overcharged. So for the cases that do have provisions for venting, when used in interior mount applications, it is still a good idea to install the vent tube in case that does occur. Those expelled gases represent lost capacity, and can't be replenished, like topping off an old, unsealed FLA battery with distilled water.

In practice, installing an AGM isn't going to cause your truck to blow up, and probably won't make any significant difference in operation. But "not had any problems" doesn't mean optimal operating conditions for an AGM.

So to compensate for the charging systems, or driving patterns, that don't charge AGMs at higher levels, some owners keep them on maintainers, or do a periodic full charge with an outboard charger (preferable with an AGM setting).

The question then becomes why pay the price premium for an AGM battery, when their advantages aren't required, realized, as well at risk of being in jeopardy because the charging system isn't fully compatible?

The answer to that reaches beyond the technical aspects, into the fact that AGM batteries are marketed as upgrades, or "premium" products, without any regard or consideration of their application. Many buyers, especially those with some urgency in need, probably just want to buy the "best" battery available, with a "good" warranty, at the highest price they're willing to pay. If it starts the car, doesn't fail prematurely, and most importantly among neophytes, simply fits, they can remain blissfully unaware.

AGMs, and their cheaper equivalents, EFBs, are now firmly in the mainstream, so for applications where they come as OE, the only wise choice is to use the proper type.

Knowing the situation with older applications, it's still a judgement call, and up to you.

So what’s a good reliable battery tester? I was told to get some cheap, $20 one at harbor freight.

But with all that’s talked about, is it even worth it to get a tester and re-test this battery?

A cheap, instant read conductance tester will only present a narrow view of how a battery performs. They measure a couple aspects of a battery, and rely on assumptions to rate other aspects. The only true way to grade a battery is to fully charge it, and discharge it under load to emulate a full cycle.

A person can be obviously ill, but not run a fever. Body temperature does serve as an indication, but shouldn't be taken as the sole arbiter of the person's condition. Same with those testers, and I suggest reading up on them to fully understand their capabilities, and limitations.
 
AGM batteries do perform better under more demanding duty cycles, like start/stop applications, as well as having lower self-discharge rates, and better durability, at least in theory.

They also have their own particular charging needs, and like to be kept at higher states of charge than FLA batteries, or their durability may suffer. They rely on the recombination of the gases produced during charging (which are normally vented to the atmosphere in a FLA battery) to maintain capacity.

While designed to operate as a sealed, non-venting unit under normal use, they do still contain a relief valve to allow venting under abnormal conditions, like if overcharged. So for the cases that do have provisions for venting, when used in interior mount applications, it is still a good idea to install the vent tube in case that does occur. Those expelled gases represent lost capacity, and can't be replenished, like topping off an old, unsealed FLA battery with distilled water.

In practice, installing an AGM isn't going to cause your truck to blow up, and probably won't make any significant difference in operation. But "not had any problems" doesn't mean optimal operating conditions for an AGM.

So to compensate for the charging systems, or driving patterns, that don't charge AGMs at higher levels, some owners keep them on maintainers, or do a periodic full charge with an outboard charger (preferable with an AGM setting).

The question then becomes why pay the price premium for an AGM battery, when their advantages aren't required, realized, as well at risk of being in jeopardy because the charging system isn't fully compatible?

The answer to that reaches beyond the technical aspects, into the fact that AGM batteries are marketed as upgrades, or "premium" products, without any regard or consideration of their application. Many buyers, especially those with some urgency in need, probably just want to buy the "best" battery available, with a "good" warranty, at the highest price they're willing to pay. If it starts the car, doesn't fail prematurely, and most importantly among neophytes, simply fits, they can remain blissfully unaware.

AGMs, and their cheaper equivalents, EFBs, are now firmly in the mainstream, so for applications where they come as OE, the only wise choice is to use the proper type.

Knowing the situation with older applications, it's still a judgement call, and up to you.



A cheap, instant read conductance tester will only present a narrow view of how a battery performs. They measure a couple aspects of a battery, and rely on assumptions to rate other aspects. The only true way to grade a battery is to fully charge it, and discharge it under load to emulate a full cycle.

A person can be obviously ill, but not run a fever. Body temperature does serve as an indication, but shouldn't be taken as the sole arbiter of the person's condition. Same with those testers, and I suggest reading up on them to fully understand their capabilities, and limitations.

Excellent points made here!
 
The only benefit you'll find from an AGM is the lack of terminal leakage.

Your vehicle's charging system is not configured for optimal charging of AGM's, so it is unlikely that you will gain the full benefits of an AGM battery.
 
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Did the truck come from the factory with a, flooded lead / acid battery, or a AGM? If it came with a conventional flooded lead / acid battery, I wouldn't change it to a AGM. From what I understand the charging system of the vehicle must be set up for AGM.

Most all battery maintainers, including the 3 that I use, (NOCO), all have a separate setting for AGM and flooded lead / acid. There is a reason for that.
🤯🤯🤯

Hmm, interesting. None of my Toyota/Lexus cars came with AGM batteries from the factory, and they have had zero issues.

The Walmart Everstart AGM battery in 24F rated at 710 CCA, actually had 900 when fully charged, and it has stayed that way for about 9 months, I do make sure to fully charge the battery at least once a month or so.

After 9 months of ownership, the battery is fully charged in less than an hour when I put it on a battery tender.

What am I missing here?
 
The point discussed here is that since the alternator is not designed to charge an AGM battery, the battery will die faster. That has not been my experience.

The Walmart Everstart AGM battery in my 2008 Corolla, has been fully charged and is still showing the same CCA as when it was bought 9 months ago, what damage is taking place that I am not seeing when I am testing my battery?

with the long drives, the AGM battery was always fully charged, I always tested my batteries, and it has been a force of habit since I joined BITOG.
 
The point discussed here is that since the alternator is not designed to charge an AGM battery, the battery will die faster. That has not been my experience.

The Walmart Everstart AGM battery in my 2008 Corolla, has been fully charged and is still showing the same CCA as when it was bought 9 months ago, what damage is taking place that I am not seeing when I am testing my battery?

with the long drives, the AGM battery was always fully charged, I always tested my batteries, and it has been a force of habit since I joined BITOG.
The alternators on the new or newer cars are not designed to charge ANY battery, flooded lead acid or AGM to 100%. It does neither lead acid or AGM automotive batteries any good to remain at a less than a full 100% charge for extended periods.

Hence the reason I keep all 3 of my vehicles on a battery maintainer. Your 2008 Corolla is the same as my old 1991 Ford. They have electrical systems that keep the battery as close to, or at 100% charged.

Either way, regardless of age or type, it's the smart play to utilize a battery maintainer.... Especially if to don't drive much, or only travel short distances, or both.

Another thing I did was turn off all of the "features" that leave lights on, etc. after the vehicle is shut off. As this only increases unnecessary battery drain.
 
I think that you had a pretty good run with the Superstart battery. The Sam’s battery is likely the same one. If you are close to Texas then you would likely have lots of heat soaking in summer. I don’t think going AGM tolerates heat as well even though they are good batteries. Sams flooded batteries sound like the best option with an outboard maintainer to keep it topped up since you have stereo equipment. People have reported shorter battery life in Arizona due to the heat there.
 
Ive had east penn and clarios flooded batteries. They are universally garbage, the only one that wasn't was an OEM EFB.

AGM all the way.

If you believe the ram forums your trucks IBMS is smart enough to detect the battery type and adapt. Other makes new enough to have sophisticated charging profiles can be programmed.

Side note, this truck doesn't have that goofy auxiliary battery deal does it?
 
WalMart's batteries have not been junk since they got away from Exide sourced batteries over 20 years ago. I'd pick the EverStart Platinum AGM battery at WalMart over the Duracell AGM at Sam's Club. The EverStart has 850 CCA and a 4 year full replacement warranty vs. 800 CCA and 3 year warranty on the Duracell. If the serial number under the bar code on top of the EverStart battery starts with "EP", it is made by East Penn which also makes the Duracell batteries.

However, I agree with billt460's opinion that you should not install an AGM battery in your RAM unless it originally came with an AGM. Some BITOG members have posted about short lifespans with AGMs installed in vehicles which have charging systems designed for flooded lead acid batteries.
Some members have also had great/superior experiences running an AGM in cars that tend to undercharge. Myself included. That said, I’m not a fan of running agm everywhere…
 
I think that you had a pretty good run with the Superstart battery. The Sam’s battery is likely the same one. If you are close to Texas then you would likely have lots of heat soaking in summer. I don’t think going AGM tolerates heat as well even though they are good batteries. Sams flooded batteries sound like the best option with an outboard maintainer to keep it topped up since you have stereo equipment. People have reported shorter battery life in Arizona due to the heat there.
Yeah, that’s what I’m kind of starting to think. I just never would’ve thought about that, having to keep a charger on a battery when in this day of age, I figured the car was supposed to be smart enough by now to make it so that you had to do that… Lol.
 
Ive had east penn and clarios flooded batteries. They are universally garbage, the only one that wasn't was an OEM EFB.

AGM all the way.

If you believe the ram forums your trucks IBMS is smart enough to detect the battery type and adapt. Other makes new enough to have sophisticated charging profiles can be programmed.

Side note, this truck doesn't have that goofy auxiliary battery deal does it?
I’ve never heard of an enhanced battery.

From what I gather, it doesn’t matter where the battery comes from; it may be the best battery you ever had or it may be the worst battery you ever had.

But if I go AGM, how often am I gonna have to put my charger on this battery? Because at least what it sounds like to me, I don’t really have to do this with a non-AGM battery, but if I want that battery to last longer than three years, it sounds like it’s highly advised.

But yeah, I do have some kind of battery sensor that I believe is on my negative battery terminal but at this point, I’m really not exactly certain what all it’s there for, like if it’s there to detect what kind of battery you have or if it’s only there to just protect the truck and protect the battery from like overcharging or if the battery gets too hot or something. Other than that, I don’t really know that much about it.

But what is this “goofy auxiliary battery deal” you’re talking about?
 
Not sure if Ram does it or not (I know some jeeps do) where it has a second auxiliary battery similar in size to a motorcycle battery. Jeeps are hidden deep in the fender IIRC. Mercedes had something similar at one time too.
 
I think that you had a pretty good run with the Superstart battery. The Sam’s battery is likely the same one. If you are close to Texas then you would likely have lots of heat soaking in summer. I don’t think going AGM tolerates heat as well even though they are good batteries. Sams flooded batteries sound like the best option with an outboard maintainer to keep it topped up since you have stereo equipment. People have reported shorter battery life in Arizona due to the heat there.
Man, I guess.

But see, what I think is very weird… Is when you go to different places online or stores that sell batteries, if an AGM type battery was not really recommended for my truck or practically any vehicle that didn’t come with one from the factory then why would they have it as an option for you to purchase? But then again, I guess I just answered my own question that just because they may say it’s available doesn’t always mean that it’s the right choice.

Do you know anything about those Optima yellow top batteries that I guess are now AGM? Depending on whether I have the rest of the day off or not I could go over to the next town over and the O’Reillys down there actually has in stock one of those optima yellow top AGM’s for my truck but at this point, I’m not so sure if I want to try an AGM or not. Back when I still had my 2008 ram seven years ago, I had bought one of those optima red tops that was still going strong almost 4 years after I bought it which, it was down here, when I sold it.
 
Not sure if Ram does it or not (I know some jeeps do) where it has a second auxiliary battery similar in size to a motorcycle battery. Jeeps are hidden deep in the fender IIRC. Mercedes had something similar at one time too.
Not that I’m aware of.
 
What battery group does your truck take? I have a optima yellow top in my VW - search my post,
This is the Optima Yellow Top that my truck calls for.

I just got off the phone with somebody at Optima and I don’t know if they’re just trying to sell me a battery or not but they said that the yellow top AGM would be a good choice for my truck, but they did say that in order to keep the battery from sulfating that the voltage should never drop below I think, she said 12.2 V or something and she did say that as long as my charging system was at 13 point something to 15.5 V that I would be OK.
 
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