Long, Boring Oil Question

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I hope you forgive a few elementary questions from an old retired R&D Chemist (who worked for one of the evil oil companies). I just bought a new Silverado with 5.3 L engine which I drive rather normally and after breakin, I need to decide on an oil. I have always used regular oil with 3000 mile oil changes. As the price of such oil increases, the differential between these regular oils and full synthetics becomes less and if I would go to a 5000 mile change, it's about a wash cost wise (I'm from the old school and would never go longer-sorry). Being a technical type, I would like to see real data on the different synthetics but all I find is some Amsoil ad data and a few comments about Valvoline giving 4 times less wear than Mobil 1 (I find this IMPOSSIBLE to believe). Have any of you folks seen real comparative data? And, without starting a war, would be interested in individual recommendations. Thanks a lot for taking the time to listen to me ramble. This is a great resource.
 
as a chemist you should have a field day in the VOA section of this forum. pennzoil ultra haslots of additive as does mobil. Amsoil is a good product IMO off the shelf products have caught up at a rapid rate to them. The VOA section should point you in the direction your looking for
 
Goodness! Guess I should have spent a little more time nosing around the site-lots of good info there-thanks.
 
Thanks-I've spent some time there and lots of data but the big variable is the mileage on the engine (its condition).
 
Welcome to the forum.

There are several syn oils that will do what you want( 5k OCI ). I know this because thousands and thousands of people are already doing it. That doesn't give you any technical data to pour over, but it does give you some real world examples.

Some of them are PP, PU, Synpower, M1, Castrol edge, GC, RP, Napa Syn, and any of the Amsoil products.

Also, many people dump the FF early to get rid of any factory "leftovers", but others think doing that is not neccessary.
 
Originally Posted By: Charlie41
Thanks-I've spent some time there and lots of data but the big variable is the mileage on the engine (its condition).


From what I've seen, rarely does engine mileage effect UOAs. I've seen 200K+ mile cars come back with UOAs as good or better than a car with only 40,000.
 
To me there are always too many variables in UOA

if you want synthetic oil
pennzoil Platinum & ultra. Ultra is brand new and meets GF-5. there are VOA in the section ( very impressive )
Mobil 1 5-30
Castrol edge 5-30
German casterol 0-30
valvoline syn power

Dino
Pennzoil yellow bottle
Mobil clean 5000

best bang for the buck
Motorcraft 5-30 syn blend
 
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Diesel gave some good recommendations. If You're over 60 I would go for the CasterOil Edge. Note that the latest xxW-30 are very thin for better fuel mileage, if thin is an issue in your applications, you may also want to try Mobil 1 0w-40. Ford 4.6L eights seem to like the 5w-20 oils.
 
my vehicle is not the same as yours but a v-6 Explorer. For the last 4 years here's what I've been doing. Mobil 1 EP 5-30 wt oil, Purolater pure 1 filter. Oil cost $ 22 at Walmart and filter was around $6, total $28. I run the oil between 10-12k miles per year, once a year oil change for me .The car now has 122k on it no oil use between changes and the motor is quiet.Now if you break that down it costs a little over $2 a month. The oil can go 15k miles if used easy.,,
 
I don't have data, but I do have 32 years of experience with M1 oils in various engines. PM me if you want details.
 
No need for syn oil for 5K mile change in a 5.3L pick any name brand dino and will be fine.
 
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I had a 4.8l V8 in my chevy truck (same engine shorter stroke) and the best oil I used was Chevron conventional and Pennzoil conventional.

My Mom has the same engine in her 2002 Silverado and it is doing great with any 5w30 oil following the OLM.

I've done some UOAs with those engines and those oils proved to be perfect.

Take care, bill

PS:
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Originally Posted By: Charlie41
I hope you forgive a few elementary questions from an old retired R&D Chemist (who worked for one of the evil oil companies). I just bought a new Silverado with 5.3 L engine which I drive rather normally and after breakin, I need to decide on an oil. I have always used regular oil with 3000 mile oil changes. As the price of such oil increases, the differential between these regular oils and full synthetics becomes less and if I would go to a 5000 mile change, it's about a wash cost wise (I'm from the old school and would never go longer-sorry).

You could go 5000 miles on conventional oil, let alone synthetic.
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How often do you tow or haul with your truck? How big is the sump? What is the factory recommended OCI?


Originally Posted By: Charlie41
Being a technical type, I would like to see real data on the different synthetics but all I find is some Amsoil ad data and a few comments about Valvoline giving 4 times less wear than Mobil 1 (I find this IMPOSSIBLE to believe). Have any of you folks seen real comparative data?

I'll send you a PM shortly, but the brief answer is no.


Originally Posted By: Charlie41
And, without starting a war, would be interested in individual recommendations.

What does your manual say? Post as many of the details (OCI, viscosity, API/ILSAC specs, GM approvals, etc.) as possible so we have a good place to start.
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Originally Posted By: 38sho
a 5.3 holds around 6 qts

unless the newest ones are radically different


nope you are right on.
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6 quarts and all it needs is API-SM and the lower GM spec.

Bill
 
Being the person you are before deciding on syn oil for 5,000 mile oil changes look at the used oil analyisi posts and any conventional oil will do 5,000 mile oil change intervals with ease. How long you been out of the industry?
 
Is this some of the Amsoil add data you've seen?

I don't know if TFOUT is important but I think I like what I see.

ThinFilmO2Uptake_640.jpg

The Thin Film Oxygen Uptake Test (TFOUT) is used to evaluate engine oil’s ability to resist heat and oxygen breakdown when contaminated with oxidized/nitrated fuel, water, and soluble metals such as lead, copper, iron, manganese and silicon. This test is designed to mimic the operating conditions of a gasoline engine.
 
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