Log splitter hydraulic fluid - current thoughts?

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deeter16317

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i looked through the older posts, but figured I ask if there was any more recent thoughts on the subject...

I just bought an older "Farm and Fleet" brand 20-ton log splitter. I'm pretty sure F&F hasn't been around for almost ten years at this point (think they were the precursor to Tractor Supply Company on the east coast). I have no manual on it, I cannot really find anything on the WWW about it either. Obviously, new to me and I intend to drain refill the hydraulic system. Looks like hydraulic oil in the reservoir, which is what I expected...its definitely not ATF or motor oil.

My question is, what weight is currently considered the best for a log splitter? I have a few gallons of Mystic JT-6, which is an AW46 I believe? I don't really intend to use it much in the fall/winter/spring, and will mainly use it during the summer months. I also have five gallons of Schaeffer SAT ATF on hand too...just a thought.

Thoughts?
 
I can't comment on the fluid, but FYI, Farm and Fleet is still going strong. That splitter was simply brought to your region from the Midwest.
 
Not around here...there were tons of Quality Farm and Fleet stores...every one is gone. Maybe a different "Farm and Fleet"?
 
I worked at Farm and Fleet and they are around and going strong. For the newer ones they use Dextron III in them and I believe the older ones used AW32. If your changing it out then the AW46 should work just fine.
 
Quality Farm and Fleet was an entirely different company. Most people mean Blain's Farm and Fleet when they say "Farm and Fleet."
 
For summer use, I would recommend something like Schaeffer's #254 HTC Supreme in ISO 68.

PM salesrep here who is a Schaeffer's dealer. A five-gallon pail should be sufficient for a flush and top-offs.

An ISO 68 is a high 20 weight to low 30 weight, which gives a good combination of film strength and economy.

ATF's in my view don't have a high enough level of anti-wear additives for the pumps, cylinders, and spools.
 
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I think that you are good either way.

The logsplitter manufacturer I deal with recommend atf as factory fill.
 
Its not that I don't like Schaeffers, just that I can buy the Mystik locally, and I also use it in two other pieces of equipment.

As for the ATF, it was just a thought...I knew some of the newer equipment used ATF, and I didn't know if a higher quality synthetic ATF like Schaeffers would work as well or not. Obviously not as well as the real thing.
 
In my view, any AW hydraulic fluid is a better alternative than ATF.

A well formulated hydraulic fluid has more rust preventatives, AW, and metal inhibitors than do ATF.

I used to design and build hydraulic log splitters when I lived in Kansas and ran analysis baselines with Dexron III ATF and Schaeffers and Amsoil hydraulic fluids.

Mobil and other's can state what they want to sell more ATF, but I have yet to see ATF show a better wear analysis than a hydraulic fluid. I analyzed all three oils and the hydraulic fluids all showed better additive and anti-oxidant packages than did ATF. Schaeffer's showed the least wear because they use additional AW and FM components.

If anyone has more recent analysis data with say 50 hours of operation on ATF verses Schaeffer's #254 please post.

In addition, the latest Amsoil and Schaeffers formulations have the latest anti-varnish component by Lubrizol, which is important to keep the varnish off the spools and cylinders.

ATF had just enough AW additive to protect the planetary gearing in an ATF.
 
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I changed fluid and filter this past weekend. Old fluid was a dark honey color, filter had nothing visible in it (Donaldson filter, 25u). I installed a new 25u filter (can't remember the brand) and about two gallons of Mystik. I will run this fill this season, then do another drain and refill...it acted normal during about two hours worth of splitting Sunday.

One thing to note is this is a rebranded "Brave" logsplitter based on the labels and cast-in logos. I searched their site and (using a more recent model than this obsolete one) looked up their current fluid recommendations...10w hydraulic oil or ATF.

Thanks for all the help!
 
Well, I have about five full cords of wood split, and the splitter is acting fine. The pump squals a little more, and only when in the high side (two speed pump). It runs surprisingly cool, you can comfortably touch any part of the hydraulic after several hours of continuous use.

I still intend to flush it one more time after this season.
 
I logged on today to start a thread about this very thing, but just figured I would jump into this one. I have a 27 ton Troy-Built (MTD) log splitter that has the typical Barnes hydraulic valve that you see on just about every log splitter manufactured in North America these days. The manual calls out anti-wear 10 wieght hydraulic oil, and I found out that straight 10 is the equivelant to 32 in hydraulic speak. What's the deal with AW (anti-wear) oil and an ISO 32 oil? I found Coastal R&O, which is an ISO 32, to be the least expensive in the 32 class. What's difference, is the AW fluid really any different than the rest of it. Am I perfectly safe using something doesn't say that it is AW?
Thanks,
Adam.
 
AW refers to anti-wear...the additive package.
RO refers to rust and oxidation inhibitors again part of the add pack.
ISO 32 is the viscosity.
Given the size of the sump you may as well put in a quality Hydraulic oil and change once every couple a years.
 
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What's difference, is the AW fluid really any different than the rest of it. Am I perfectly safe using something doesn't say that it is AW?


No.

As salesrep said, an R&O has only a partially sufficient addpack.

An Anti-wear hydraulic oil will have rust and oxidation inhibitors as WELL AS Anti-Wear additives.

Spools, Pump, and cylinders need a good AW hydraulic oil to keep wear in check.
 
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I just picked up a Swisher 12 ton vertical unit from the Sportsman Guide. I was looking for the smallest gas-powered splitter I could find.

The owner's manual suggests either a "Dextron ATF" or "Hydraulic" fluid. No specifics on either......

So, for better or for worse, I'm using this:

hydoil.jpg



It's not a designer oil, but seems to have the qualifications to do the job I need and the price is right..........

Let's get splitting!
 
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