Weird how your price is different from what we are getting. Showing retail $34.99, with the discount $24.49.
Lisle funnel for radiator drain & fill
- Thread starter paulri
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Fine. I bought a so-called radiator funnel for about that much, that didn't keep a whole lot of coolant from bubbling out from the radiator. What funnel have you used for $2.59? If I can save 22 bucks I'd love to.
Originally Posted by Lubener
My spill proof funnel cost $2.59.
Originally Posted by Lubener
My spill proof funnel cost $2.59.
Originally Posted by diyjake
Weird how your price is different from what we are getting. Showing retail $34.99, with the discount $24.49.
Pepboys has different prices all over the country. Last year I watched the screen as the assoc looked up an alternator for me and it was $50 cheaper when it defaulted to another state.
Weird how your price is different from what we are getting. Showing retail $34.99, with the discount $24.49.
Pepboys has different prices all over the country. Last year I watched the screen as the assoc looked up an alternator for me and it was $50 cheaper when it defaulted to another state.
Originally Posted by paulri
Fine. I bought a so-called radiator funnel for about that much, that didn't keep a whole lot of coolant from bubbling out from the radiator. What funnel have you used for $2.59? If I can save 22 bucks I'd love to.
Originally Posted by Lubener
My spill proof funnel cost $2.59.
Can be purchased at most places but requires a steady hand and some common sense. I never had any problems with it so far.
Fine. I bought a so-called radiator funnel for about that much, that didn't keep a whole lot of coolant from bubbling out from the radiator. What funnel have you used for $2.59? If I can save 22 bucks I'd love to.
Originally Posted by Lubener
My spill proof funnel cost $2.59.
Can be purchased at most places but requires a steady hand and some common sense. I never had any problems with it so far.
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Originally Posted by CaptainHazelwood
Originally Posted by diyjake
Weird how your price is different from what we are getting. Showing retail $34.99, with the discount $24.49.
Pepboys has different prices all over the country. Last year I watched the screen as the assoc looked up an alternator for me and it was $50 cheaper when it defaulted to another state.
This sort of price tweaking isn't uncommon at all. Back in high school and early college, I worked for a grocery chain whose "price book" (yes, it was an actual "book" back then, bound "fan fold" computer output...) had six different "price levels" for each product -- just for stores in New Hampshire! Add the internet and you're lucky to get the same price on the same product twice in a row from the same seller. . .
Originally Posted by diyjake
Weird how your price is different from what we are getting. Showing retail $34.99, with the discount $24.49.
Pepboys has different prices all over the country. Last year I watched the screen as the assoc looked up an alternator for me and it was $50 cheaper when it defaulted to another state.
This sort of price tweaking isn't uncommon at all. Back in high school and early college, I worked for a grocery chain whose "price book" (yes, it was an actual "book" back then, bound "fan fold" computer output...) had six different "price levels" for each product -- just for stores in New Hampshire! Add the internet and you're lucky to get the same price on the same product twice in a row from the same seller. . .
Originally Posted by mclasser
Run the engine @2500 RPM for 2 cooling fan cycles, heater on max hot, blower off, done.
I posted this as part of my question about coolant changes, but wondering why some sites say to have blower on and others say blower off. Assuming engine block drains aren't opened, I suspect with blower on, the heat is dissipated through the heater core longer thereby delaying opening of thermostat for additional cooling through the radiator. The end result, is that the burping process takes longer. Either way,the engine will be burped of air but with blower on it just may take longer. Am I correct?
Run the engine @2500 RPM for 2 cooling fan cycles, heater on max hot, blower off, done.
I posted this as part of my question about coolant changes, but wondering why some sites say to have blower on and others say blower off. Assuming engine block drains aren't opened, I suspect with blower on, the heat is dissipated through the heater core longer thereby delaying opening of thermostat for additional cooling through the radiator. The end result, is that the burping process takes longer. Either way,the engine will be burped of air but with blower on it just may take longer. Am I correct?
When I worked the Nissan parts counter, all the techs had these funnels. Most of the cars had low front ends and the Lisle funnels made it much faster and easier to burp the air out.
It might not matter in a vehicle with a high mounted surge tank, but vehicles with a conventional radiator and overflow bottle, the Lisle funnels are a godsend.
It might not matter in a vehicle with a high mounted surge tank, but vehicles with a conventional radiator and overflow bottle, the Lisle funnels are a godsend.
Bought the Lisle funnel a couple of weeks ago and I didn't find it to be any faster in burping the air out but it is less sloppy. But I am no expert. This is just the second time in changing the coolant on the Sienna. I remember the first time I did it about a year ago it was kind of messy - and that stuff is hard to keep clean inside the engine bay so I checked out some youtube videos of the Lisle funnel. The Sienna does take a LONG time for the front heater to get hot. The back heat became hot in about 10 mins but the front NEVER got really hot. I just kept letting it run with the Lisle funnel about 1/3 fill with pink coolant. I see air bubbles popping up occasionally but the front heat was still cool to the touch. After a while I gave up and button everything back up and went for a drive. The front heat got really hot in 3 mins ! Which reminds me I should check the overflow tank later, it was on the max line when I button everything up.
I will be using it again in a few weeks on the S2000 so let's see how that goes. I guess some cars just take longer. With the Accord I used a regular funnel and burp the air with the car off. But of course it has a air bleeder valve.
I will be using it again in a few weeks on the S2000 so let's see how that goes. I guess some cars just take longer. With the Accord I used a regular funnel and burp the air with the car off. But of course it has a air bleeder valve.
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Would you mind linking to your funnel--or at least telling me the maker/specific name of the funnel, if you recall? I could look it up if need be.
Originally Posted by Lubener
Originally Posted by paulri
Fine. I bought a so-called radiator funnel for about that much, that didn't keep a whole lot of coolant from bubbling out from the radiator. What funnel have you used for $2.59? If I can save 22 bucks I'd love to.
Originally Posted by Lubener
My spill proof funnel cost $2.59.
Can be purchased at most places but requires a steady hand and some common sense. I never had any problems with it so far.
Originally Posted by Lubener
Originally Posted by paulri
Fine. I bought a so-called radiator funnel for about that much, that didn't keep a whole lot of coolant from bubbling out from the radiator. What funnel have you used for $2.59? If I can save 22 bucks I'd love to.
Originally Posted by Lubener
My spill proof funnel cost $2.59.
Can be purchased at most places but requires a steady hand and some common sense. I never had any problems with it so far.
Right now, the next coolant change for both my cars should be in 2-3 years, when my mechanic changes their timing belt, so I'm not sure I'm going to buy it now that I won't be needing it for the next 5 years, but it is on my list.
Because of the above reason, I did a second drain & fill with my Highlander last weekend without buying/using the Lisle funnel, and I found that when I had the air bleeder valve opened, it only took a fraction of the time it took the first time, and hardly any bubbled out the radiator fill hole. So I'm thinking I'd only be needing it for one vehicle anyways. That air bleeder valve made the coolant change so easy I wonder why most car makers don't use one.
Because of the above reason, I did a second drain & fill with my Highlander last weekend without buying/using the Lisle funnel, and I found that when I had the air bleeder valve opened, it only took a fraction of the time it took the first time, and hardly any bubbled out the radiator fill hole. So I'm thinking I'd only be needing it for one vehicle anyways. That air bleeder valve made the coolant change so easy I wonder why most car makers don't use one.
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