The potential of hemi lifter/cam issues has me concerned. I had bought a 6 pack of MoS2 and one of Lubeguard biotech when I found mail-order deals on them and got too click happy.
Liqui Moly MoS2 interesting sediment pics.
- Thread starter JTK
- Start date
That has been my reasoning using the MSo2. I use it in good old simple pushrod engines.
The hemi is a pushrod, pretty simple engine. It just uses ridiculously expensive roller lifters.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
True - but they also at times if you follow their stuff online say that MoS2 can be alternated with Ceratec between applications - per LM, the Ceratec is a 30K(maybe 20...can't recall now) additive and contains both a chemical and solid friction modifier additive. So after the first change with Ceratec, you loose the solids and you can use MoS2 for that.
I'm with you, but no one really knows why these rollers stop rolling in the first place. There's several theories and more hemi tick threads than you could or would want to read. It seems like most who've posted their experiences with hemi tick or needed thousands of $ worth of engine work because of it followed a regular oil change regimen as well. My thoughts on these additives was to increase moly levels in the oil.
I took more pics of the filter can today after it sat in my drain pan all night. The thick black stuff did work it's way out. This may be a concern about nothing.. I did no wiping of the inside of the can.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
I understand your reasoning, because I know people have floated moly as a panacea, but moly hasn't prevented the failure on the SRT's, for which the 0w-40 has a pretty large slug of, and I recall some of the "redline" guys, with its very high dosage rate also experiencing it. Moly is more of an FM than AW additive like ZDDP. The oil I'm using in my SRT has no moly at all in it, they use a tungsten FM in its place.I'm with you, but no one really knows why these rollers stop rolling in the first place. There's several theories and more hemi tick threads than you could or would want to read. It seems like most who've posted their experiences with hemi tick or needed thousands of $ worth of engine work because of it followed a regular oil change regimen as well. My thoughts on these additives was to increase moly levels in the oil.
I took more pics of the filter can today after it sat in my drain pan all night. The thick black stuff did work it's way out. This may be a concern about nothing.. I did no wiping of the inside of the can.
Glad to see the oil/moly mix flowed out of the can, I don't think anyone expected it to stick around, it was just strange that it settled out like that IMHO.
The reason I'm running the FRAM Ultra, besides the fact that it's a great deal, on both my vehicles is because I have a theory that contamination of the needle bearings is likely a contributor to failure. Should they be that sensitive? No, and maybe they aren't now after all the revisions, but then again most of them don't experience failures until after 150,000 miles either I believe on average and many go much MUCH further never experiencing an issue at all.
I know you are familiar with our one fleet truck having the failure, but none of the others, many of which have higher mileage, have had the issue, so in our case it's one out of 8 trucks and they are all pushing 9 or 10 years old now so they are all pre lifter revision engines. I'm hopeful the issue is wholly sorted at this point but in the interim, as I noted, my process is to run an extremely high quality lubricant that's going to keep things clean and use the best filter I can get my hands on. This includes using a factory-style air filter as contamination of the sump can of course occur via blowby and thus dirt ingress via the air intake tract.
Will it be effective? Guess we'll see.
Looks like oil containing mos2 to me? I'm not sure what else you expected to find in the oil filter? next time mix the qdditive in an oil container and see what it looks like fully mixed. I bet it looks exactly like the oil in the filter.
There is a simple solution to eliminate after market additives sediments but, who knows...
What I did was mix mine and let it set overnight. The oil was dark and it did not separate.
As stated several times above, the oil that drained out and the darker, thicker stuff in the bottom of the filter were completely different colors and consistencies. Just stating my findings.
Completely normal! Hello! M0S2 is a ultra fine solid particle that BONDS to surfaces. Its doing its job obviously!
Lubrimoly/Liquimoly products are great, and have been tried and true for many years. They just plain work.
Lubrimoly/Liquimoly products are great, and have been tried and true for many years. They just plain work.
I don't think the mos2 causes issues but I also don't like the idea of it settling. That's why I personally switched from that to Biotech.
JHZR2
Staff member
I did the physics-based calculations a few years ago, here:
Small Particle MoS2 Settling Time
I figured I'd go ahead and do the calculation so that everyone isnt just speculating. I havent seen anyone else attempt it, so I wrote it out in Mathcad, saved the pages as a JPG, and here it is. As usual, Photobucket ruins the images by funky compression, but I think you can make it out. Ill...
www.bobistheoilguy.com
Thank you for that. Pretty interesting analysis. Good on you for keeping sharp all these years with your math skills sir.
This may be slightly OT but, I am due to start a LONG roadtrip soon. I'm talking about more than 1000 miles each direction, MOST of it long uninterrupted highway cruising with the cruise control on. I will endeavor to swing by NAPA, and add a can of Mos2. For those that don't know, a can is approximately the same size as a 12oz can of Red Bull.
I may even "rinse" the inside of the can one time, as I hear there is a lot of residual Mos2 that stays in there. The stuff is a lot like grease, just pours easier. Slightly.
I will be only ever so slightly above the MAX marks on my oil dipstick and my oil isn't even dirty yet so I think this could be a very good thing for the engine. You all agree?
Oh, and it will be added to hot/fully warmed motor oil too. Not cold. If that matters.
I may even "rinse" the inside of the can one time, as I hear there is a lot of residual Mos2 that stays in there. The stuff is a lot like grease, just pours easier. Slightly.
I will be only ever so slightly above the MAX marks on my oil dipstick and my oil isn't even dirty yet so I think this could be a very good thing for the engine. You all agree?
Oh, and it will be added to hot/fully warmed motor oil too. Not cold. If that matters.
