Liqui Moly MoS2 interesting sediment pics.

Not yet, yes, the M1 5W50 could work and they even make Molygen in that viscosity. I'm not too concerned with it TBH as it is likely fuel-related. I use the UOAs for trends mainly on wear metals and if you look at my dataset, they all basically do the same thing.
There is also Castrol 5W-50 API SP, looks interesting.
 
There is also Castrol 5W-50 API SP, looks interesting.
I think the 5W40s are fine. I am curious to have a look at a UOA by a different outfit that tests for fuel directly to see if that is indeed the case with my lower viscosities.
 
I wonder what MOS2 or graphite, or WS2 does to the HTHS viscosity. Afterall, they are used because they shear easy, layer by layer. Wouldn't surprise me if HTHS ends up lower. It would explain the claimed efficiency benefits

How should 100 or 200 ppm affect viscosity/HTHS?



Vanderbilt Vanlube W-324 is what is used in both Ravenol's Racing series engine oils (REP/RUP/RCS etc.)
and Eurol Engine Treat (along with AN).

Tungsten as well as tungsten disulphide provide much better thermal stability compared to moly/MoS2.

.
 
Can you provide any factual data that supports the claims that these oil additives actually do anything? Long term testing, followed by engine tear downs, or laboratory testing maybe? You chose to share your experience and receive opinions. You got mine, which is that engine oil additives are Snake Oil. A fully formulated oil should perform within its predefined parameters without any help. Altering its chemistry will produce unpredictable and sometimes unwanted results. Do the manufacturers of these additives provide any factual evidence beyond anecdotes that their additives are nothing more than a waste of money? Did they perform any meaningful and long term tests that can show their benefits?

I honestly don't know why I'm embellishing at this point because the thread has gone elsewhere..

If you read the thread from the beginning, I clearly stated why I purchased and used this product, as an attempt to ward off any potential cam/lifter issue with my hemi. I have no idea if it actually does anything and not once did I say it does anything good or bad. I got a deal on a case of the product. I chose to use it and I had the balls to show some visuals.

My choice to use supertech oil stems from years of reading member's used oil analysis results and VOAs on this oil as well as personal experience. It's an oil that's proven to do well for those who don't care to do extended drain intervals. I've used many name brands including M1, amsoil, redline, etc.. etc over the years. I do all my own oil changes and prefer to do them sooner than recommended by the manufacturer, which is one of the reasons I choose to use Supertech, Kirkland, Amazon basics, Napa, Carquest, etc.. engine oils.

Participating on this site for going on 19yrs, I've yet to see where Supertech or MoS2 additive for that matter ruined someone's engine.
 
I honestly don't know why I'm embellishing at this point because the thread has gone elsewhere..

If you read the thread from the beginning, I clearly stated why I purchased and used this product, as an attempt to ward off any potential cam/lifter issue with my hemi. I have no idea if it actually does anything and not once did I say it does anything good or bad. I got a deal on a case of the product. I chose to use it and I had the balls to show some visuals.

My choice to use supertech oil stems from years of reading member's used oil analysis results and VOAs on this oil as well as personal experience. It's an oil that's proven to do well for those who don't care to do extended drain intervals. I've used many name brands including M1, amsoil, redline, etc.. etc over the years. I do all my own oil changes and prefer to do them sooner than recommended by the manufacturer, which is one of the reasons I choose to use Supertech, Kirkland, Amazon basics, Napa, Carquest, etc.. engine oils.

Participating on this site for going on 19yrs, I've yet to see where Supertech or MoS2 additive for that matter ruined someone's engine.
Amen dude.
 
Vanderbilt Vanlube W-324 is what is used in both Ravenol's Racing series engine oils (REP/RUP/RCS etc.)
and Eurol Engine Treat (along with AN).
i now have vst, which they say is also tungsten, wondering if this is the same chemistry. (maybe just less amount)
vst got 2x expensive, so no purchase next year...😩
eurol is on my way😍
 
How should 100 or 200 ppm affect viscosity/HTHS?




Vanderbilt Vanlube W-324 is what is used in both Ravenol's Racing series engine oils (REP/RUP/RCS etc.)
and Eurol Engine Treat (along with AN).

Tungsten as well as tungsten disulphide provide much better thermal stability compared to moly/MoS2.

.

The recommended doses are higher in some applications, 1% or 10.000 ppm
 
I clearly stated why I purchased and used this product, as an attempt to ward off any potential cam/lifter issue with my hemi.
And you think that by adding dreck to the oil, somehow you will mitigate the issue? Use a high quality oil filter made with spun micro-glass (e.g. Fram Ultra), and better motor oil. Something with a HTHS of 3.5 or higher works even better. Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 is such an oil, Mobil 1 0W-40 is also good oil. Liqui Moly Molygen contains both Tungsten and Molybdenum friction modifiers to help lube your engine better. You might cause actual damage by trying to fix something that is not broken. At the end of the day it's your vehicle, and you suffer if you break it, not me. Those lifter need to be kept clean, not contaminated with a solid friction modifier. I'm curious as to what or who gave you the idea that you should use MOS2 in your engine. After watching some YouTube videos by Liqui Moly, I can see how some of their customers will give it a try as part of their product lineup. But those folks usually run Liqui Moly products in European vehicles. So I'm just wondering how you connected the dots.

My choice to use supertech oil stems from years of reading member's used oil analysis results and VOAs on this oil as well as personal experience. It's an oil that's proven to do well for those who don't care to do extended drain intervals. I've used many name brands including M1, amsoil, redline, etc.. etc over the years. I do all my own oil changes and prefer to do them sooner than recommended by the manufacturer, which is one of the reasons I choose to use Supertech, Kirkland, Amazon basics, Napa, Carquest, etc.. engine oils.
My recommendation for you to use a better oil was based on the fact that the hemi is a hot running engine. It had nothing to do with your choice of OCI. A hotter running engine needs good oil to keep sludge at bay. There are plenty of accounts of sludged up hemis out there. Lifters aren't even the biggest problems with these engines.

Participating on this site for going on 19yrs, I've yet to see where Supertech or MoS2 additive for that matter ruined someone's engine.
There was someone here who had issues with their VTEC Honda engine after using MOS2.

Anyway, do you want to be right, or do you want to be happy? If you want to be right, then keep using what you're using. I'm sure you'll let us know when things go south. If you want to be happy then upgrade your oil and filter, and just don't overthink it. You don't have to use Mobil 1, that was just an example. Pennzoil, Castrol, Shell, all make premium oils. Rotella Gas Truck seems to be an excellent oil, as Shell claims that it's loaded with anti oxidants so it can stand up to heat.

I'm talking against you, I'm trying to understand your logic and provide some feedback.
 
The other oil with tungsten is Motul 8100 X-Cess 5W40.
What about Castrol 5W-40? Looking at oil analysis on the forum, it doesn't seem to have Molybdenum or Titanium in it, so what kind of friction modifier does it use? Could it be Tungsten?
 
What about Castrol 5W-40? Looking at oil analysis on the forum, it doesn't seem to have Molybdenum or Titanium in it, so what kind of friction modifier does it use? Could it be Tungsten?
I don't believe so. The Castrol I did a VOA on had Ti - 23ppm of it!
 
Oh, it does? You have a link to that please?
Here you go. This was the regular black bottle Castrol Edge 5W40 from Walmart. It think it even says Titanium on the bottle if I recall. I was tryign to look at the VOA for what was most likely being used in my Atlas from the dealer.
OilReports-page-001.jpg
 
Almost tempted to try it. Is it good stuff? What's the deal with their Leicht Lauf line?
Eh, it's not going to be any different than any other "502" oil (to me). Why not? It doesn't actually have any approvals so if you are the warranty worry wart then pass. LLHT 5W40 is their more traditional Euro oil with all the approvals. Folsk here say why bother b/c you can get M1 etc. for less that does the same thing. I get all my LM stuff from FCP Euro and use their lifetime replacement so mine cost exactly 0 (even with shipping as I use Paypal and get it refunded). Hard to argue with free.
 
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