Sure.
Liqui Moly Ceratec vs Lubegard Biotech
- Thread starter Sajin
- Start date
I had the car checked out. Nothing was found to be wrong with it. The noise sounds like a lifter issue, so I had them all replaced on the side that was in question. Didn’t resolve the issue.
If nothing was wrong, why the noise? Why replace one bank of lifters? There's something going on there. Again, my bet is the solids are masking the noise, as mentioned MoS2 might very well have the same effect, only cheaper.
Good question. No idea. Replacing the lifters on the other side of the engine isn’t needed as the other side sounds fine. Engine sounds fine on cold start, and the noise only appears at operating temp at idle. Raise the rpms slightly to 1200 rpm, and the noise goes away. Doesn’t sound like a piston issue, or rod knock. Doesn’t sound like a timing chain, or timing chain tensioner issue either. Cylinders & cams look to be in good shape. Engine doesn’t burn any oil, or smoke at all. Engine idles fine on cold & hot starts. No misfires. Runs perfect when putting your foot in it to 6000 rpm. Engine makes the power it should on the dyno too.
Yes. There are certain people on here who just want to argue or denigrate.Has anybody else noticed all the “curt” answers lately from veteran “Bitogers” ( some with thousands of posts and lots of knowledge ) to new members, some posting for the first time and are here to learn? We used to post a welcome to BITOG and try to answer their questions or at least steer them in the right direction, but lately flippant answers to the new members seem to be the norm.
I don't need to step in the horse manure to know its there, the smell is enough.
But you might have covid
That is the whole point Frank!
Replacing the lifters/lash adjusters on the other side is not needed? That implies they were noisy on the other side but replacing them did not cure the noise.
Sounds fine cold and only noisy at idle at operating temp tells me when the oil viscosity is higher cold the pressure is enough to keep the lifters pumped up but oil pressure is lowest hot idle one or more begin ticking but when rpm and increase so does oil pressure pumping them up again.
I question if this thing has ever seen a dyno, if it did it would have oil pressure, fuel pressure, baro, engine temp and other readings. Let the OP post the sheet and lets have a look. The oil pressure readings could be telling.
This not mine but an example of the info in these reports.
Personally I find Lubegard has better feel of slipperiness but not lasting as long as Ceratec which somehow may help with better compression. However Ceratec is bad idea if your car is burning oil.
Mine didn’t come with a sheet like that. Don’t think it’s low oil pressure as the tick occurred on both 5w20 and 5w50.
A dyno run was performed with no report?
Only a normal dyno sheet with horsepower, torque, air & fuel was provided.
My van makes a bad unhappy sound occasionally(two or three times a winter) at startup when it's below freezing. so I added Ceratec to help the engine last longer. I got a glimpse of what it was about when I looked in the funnel and how it beaded up on the surface like it didn't want to stick at all to the surface.
thicker oil fixes noises sometimes, and it definitely doesn't have less friction.
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2021
- Messages
- 201
It's Snake Oil versus Snake Oil.
Might as well give Lucas Oil Stabilizer a try, it may be just as good. /s
I wouldn't spend money on either, just buy the best oil you can afford for your application.
Yummy yummy reptile fluids.....
Ceratec doesn’t claim to increase/decrease viscosity. I guess you missed the part where I said 5w20 and 5w50 both ticked. I doubt ceratec is increasing the viscosity of a 20 weight oil to over a 50 weight if it does increase viscosity.
Similar threads
