Liqui Moly Ceratec vs Lubegard Biotech

Ah the "best" question.
Has anybody else noticed all the “curt” answers lately from veteran “Bitogers” ( some with thousands of posts and lots of knowledge ) to new members, some posting for the first time and are here to learn? We used to post a welcome to BITOG and try to answer their questions or at least steer them in the right direction, but lately flippant answers to the new members seem to be the norm. :(
 
Which is best, and why? Also which ones quiets your engine the most? Thanks.

What deficiency do you feel is necessary to remedy with your current lubricant that is drawing you towards dosing it with something from a 3rd party? OEM's unanimously advise against oil additives, so if you are under warranty, that's something to keep in mind as well.
 
Just trying to quiet down a tick my car has only when at normal operating temp at idle.
 
Can't go wrong with either product honestly. Some have said LM Mos2 and Ceratec fall out of suspension if you don't drive a lot, so I'd base which one's best for you on that.
 
Lubegard would be my choice if I was to use any additive and no it will not void your new car warranty.
 
Need to know a bit more about what vehicle this is for and if the source of the noise could be a DI fuel pump etc.
 
If its gonna be a garage queen than the Lubegard Biotech or use LiquiMoly Molygen oil with Tungsten. Going to the track I would use any OTC synthetic with Ceratec but it needs some time to work prior like 500-1000 miles. Dont mix with Molygen. If its same day track run then you can use Molygen and MoS2 together which I am currently doing. Running Lubegard Biotech in wifes Chevy with XOM M1EP as shes teleworking nurse. Another to consider is Archoil 9100, ester based AND acts like Ceratec
 
If its gonna be a garage queen than the Lubegard Biotech or use LiquiMoly Molygen oil with Tungsten. Going to the track I would use any OTC synthetic with Ceratec but it needs some time to work prior like 500-1000 miles. Dont mix with Molygen. If its same day track run then you can use Molygen and MoS2 together which I am currently doing. Running Lubegard Biotech in wifes Chevy with XOM M1EP as shes teleworking nurse. Another to consider is Archoil 9100, ester based AND acts like Ceratec
Yeah, for some reason they don't want you to run Ceratec with the Molygen but MoS2 in extreme (track) conditions they say is ok - has to be the chemical component of the Ceratec as the MoS2 is just a solid friction modifier and the Molygen has the tungsten/moly bit. How do you like the Molygen + MoS2 combo? I've run Molygen in my Sportwagen (and likely will end up back with it after this round of Wallyworld oil testing is over in a few mos).
 
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Has anybody else noticed all the “curt” answers lately from veteran “Bitogers” ( some with thousands of posts and lots of knowledge ) to new members, some posting for the first time and are here to learn? We used to post a welcome to BITOG and try to answer their questions or at least steer them in the right direction, but lately flippant answers to the new members seem to be the norm. :(
Every forum has it. Every FB group has it.
 
Both in one day, one worked the other one didnt. Okay :ROFLMAO:
Yeah, changed my oil the first time, and used Lubegard. Tick was still present at operating temp when idle. Changed oil second time a few hours later, and tried Ceratec. Tick gone at operating temp when idle. Lubegard says it works instantly on the bottle, but clearly it doesn’t work instantly. Ceratec actually worked instantly. Guess that is why one costs $13 and the other costs $26.
 
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I think lubegard works best as a cleaner and only a mild friction reducer. My oil filter after using Lubegard had a little bit of sludge in it that I had never seen before so it was definitely cleaning. The MoS2 seems to work best as a dedicated friction reducer. However, I would likely try a Motul etc engine oil and add Rislone Nano which contains both moly and tungsten.
 
Yeah, changed my oil the first time, and used Lubegard. Tick was still present at operating temp when idle. Changed oil second time a few hours later, and tried Ceratec. Tick gone at operating temp when idle. Lubegard says it works instantly on the bottle, but clearly it doesn’t work instantly. Ceratec actually worked instantly. Guess that is why one costs $13 and the other costs $26.
I don't see anywhere in the product info or the bottle where they say stops lifter/lash adjuster noise instantly. I do see this though.
LUBEGARD provides a concentrated package that fulfills these deficiencies (without adding ZDDP, Chlorine, inappropriate sludge building additives like PTFE or solid lubricants such as Teflon®, graphite or molybdenum disulphide.)
You just added white graphite to the oil, a solid. Frankly I think it is a little silly to use any product and expect instant results, if you would have said a whole oil change and now used something else and it is quieter then maybe your little test may have more validity.
 
Yeah, changed my oil the first time, and used Lubegard. Tick was still present at operating temp when idle. Changed oil second time a few hours later, and tried Ceratec. Tick gone at operating temp when idle. Lubegard says it works instantly on the bottle, but clearly it doesn’t work instantly. Ceratec actually worked instantly. Guess that is why one costs $13 and the other costs $26.
Sorry I'm not buying into it. Maybe the solids in the Ceratec are quieting things down, hiding the sounds. I seriously doubt the product instantly cleaned things up fixing the problem that quickly. OTOH for all we know another 5 minutes of LG would have quieted things down. One thing for sure we'll never know. If I had to venture a guess it's the solids quieting things down.
 
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