Liqui-Moly additives

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I noticed my work got in a few cases of various Liqui-Moly additives. I also noticed a few cases of various weight Royal Purple oil, but that's another matter. I think I spotted MOS2 and I know there's some Valve Clean with the attached plastic neck for dispensing. I was too busy to really look at it, and it doesn't have a place on the floor at this point. Are any of their oil additives useful? How about their fuel cleaners, how does Valve Clean (says use fairly regularly) stack up vs something like FP? Or how does their stronger/higher dose Jectron or Fuel System Cleaner compare to a decent OTC FIC like Redline, Techron, etc?

I searched briefly but I found very little and most of it was on their oil, Lubro-Moly. I guess there's just a lack of experience with it? Maybe I'll dig more when I get the chance.
 
what is the ppm and how much do you plan on adding?

moly is a funny animal

but if you get the mix right

Ohhhh how sweet the ride.

figure the numbers on paper, before you play chemist.
 
Liqui-Moly. Click on products, then catalog, and check out their additives. I cracked open a box though, I was wrong, what I thought was Valve Clean is Jectron, though it has the same plastic neck as the Valve Clean picture on their web site. Container might be a good candidate for recycling, as I could throw a dose of FP60, Redline, or whatever else in it, and take it with me.
 
quote:

Originally posted by tjones:
What numbers should you look for?

nooooo
talk to a chemist
I am not a chemist

it depends on what you are shooting for
and the oil base you are using
depends on how much moly you can add

not every oil can take the same amount of moly

I'd just follow the general directions with the product and run an oci to see the numbers before I'd fiddle with it at all

or talk to a lab tech
that knows the oil
and have him advise you
on the proper amount (range)
to put in there
 
So.. Liqui-Moly slash Lubro-Moly products, particularly their fuel/oil additives. Nobody has used these? I am not really a good guinea pig, as I don't own a carboned or sludged up engine. I could throw it in my tank, and it might be the best cleaner in the world, and I still wouldn't notice any difference.
 -
 
Jectron is very popular here in europe along with there other products. I have used it for years in my vw and bmw. IMHO i feel that it is stronger than techron. Plus the bottle is reusable and has that great spout on it.
 
Interesting. Incidentally, looks like the Royal Purple will soon get a place on the floor, don't know about the Lubro-Moly stuff. We finally got in some 5w40 M1 T&S, as well. I guess shelves can only have so many products on them at once. If it was up to me, Quaker State would suddenly vanish, clearing up some room.
 
I used to sell LiquiMoly products about four years ago back in Ukraine, and I used them intensively. 10W30 oil, diesel injector cleaner and fuel antifreeze. Some lubes as well. I didn't do UOAs back then though.
The oil was really dark out of the bottle. The engine run great and I sold the car at 200k km. It has been running strong since then.
 
Robbie A (or anybody),

What happens if you put too much moly in the oil? I've noticed some oils have several hundred ppm right out of the bottle, some none, lots have anywhere between 7 and 60 or so.

I've noticed reports here that adding moly has reduced wear metals in UOAs by 25% - 50%; pretty dramatic.

What could go wrong if, say, you boosted every oil for every car to 500ppm?

- Glenn
 
quote:

Glen:
Robbie A (or anybody),

What happens if you put too much moly in the oil? I've noticed some oils have several hundred ppm right out of the bottle, some none, lots have anywhere between 7 and 60 or so.

I've noticed reports here that adding moly has reduced wear metals in UOAs by 25% - 50%; pretty dramatic.

What could go wrong if, say, you boosted every oil for every car to 500ppm?

- Glenn

Interesting question.

They are all blended specific to the MOLY.

Other things come into play, but the oil that has just a little, has it factored in with the rest of the add package. The one with the High Dosage, is blended for that ratio... all the adds need to be in balance.

I do not know how to do it, ie balance... I only know from millions of miles with it and without it using may adds and many products in combo, that the moly can and will affect the whole oil and the "balance" is not easy to arrive at.

You can try it. I have. Do an UOA and use that to compare to your baseline. Then Add acordingly.

Best to buy one already blended for you.

But not a requirement.

Just the best or easiest way to get a balanced oil.

Some oils have brother oils (with no moly) that are close to the oil with the moly and very little tweaking is done to the oils, as not very many oils even tweak it ie for the moly, as good as they should... most cut corners


I would, if I were you is establish a baseline for three or four samples.

Then, buy your additive, and start with the whole bottle, and see if the numbers improved. Id they are way outa wack, then readjust or add other products or oils to achieve what you need.

Sometimes it works best when you do add different brands to the brew. For example; say you have Havoline xyz, and you have 2 quarts of it, and you also have mobil y, and you have 1/2 quart of it, and say you have PennZiol Z and only 1 quart, you put say 8-16 ounces of additive and you may put another brand of dino/syn to top it up....
That could be a good brew with the Moly and alone could be not as hot as one solo brand, or even a belnd of two oils.

If you know what you are doing, you can effectivly take three or five or ten other off the shelf oils and blend just about anything you want for a street ride, with or without moly. But you have to know all the workings.

The easiest is to buy a pre-blended oil.

Next, if you blend... then buy a top quality add like the one above, and first follow the directions and then you can experiment...
But You MuSt
have a Baseline, otherwise you are spitting in the wind... You need more than several, you need to be ongoing in you UOA's if you are experimenting...

One time I had great numbers with my brew in the short oci but the long drain it was worst... I'd rather be the other way... just watch the numbers, and if after you do an UOA they don't get better
then you have to try some other tactic

like less or then more or then add another additive... but do all these things one at a time... if you already tried a hundred different things, then maybe you can "get away otherwise" but it can be a risk.

You must find a good oil you want to establish a baseline, and go from there... better to stick with a little lower quality oil than switch from bottle to bottle. You need a baseline.

Some oils sacrifice cleanliness for wear
I like to sacrifice wear for cleanliness
That is a whole other discussion
 
Sorry buy I have to bump this thread up.

I've searched and there really is no threads on liqui-moly additives such as their fuel injector and valve cleaners.

I've used them and haven't really noticed an increase in mileage or driveability, but I've always thought highly of the products.

Any other thoughts?
 
I've picked up a bottle of their Jectron cleaner. I used it, didn't feel much of a difference on the used Audi I picked up. The container with the spigot makes for a lovely way to keep doses of FP60 tightly sealed in the trunk, though. I've been tempted to try their moly supplement, but I'll probably wait until I can get in a proper AutoRXing cycle in, and then get a UOA.
 
I've only used the Liqui Moly fuel injector and valve cleaner and really haven't tried anything else.

The European's supposedly love these products too. I don't think they can hurt can they?
 
LIQUI MOLY GMBH is the company name and their products are usually called Lubro Moly something. Not all their products contain moly, but some, like their LM 47 MoS2 grease, do.

Many LM products can be found on the shelves at BMW, Porsche, Mercedes-Benz and Volkswagen-Audi dealers.
 
I just switched my oil to Lubro Moly 0w40 full synthetic and added a can of their MOS2 moly additive. Did it yesterday and I drained an Auto-Rx rinse cycle. The engine was noticeable smoother than it had been just minutes before with the Havoline dino rinse oil. I figured that LM moly wouldn't mess-up LM oil so I added it.

I'll do a UOA, but so far so good.
 
I have two questions about LM oils and additives that, according to LM, contain MoS2:

1. Is it really MoS2, or is a soluble form of moly? I strongly suspect it's not really MoS2, but that they call it that, because in German, moly lubricant additives are generally called MoS2 by regular folks, not matter what form of moly it is. At least that's my experience.

2. Can anybody confirm via VOA or UOA that LM MoS2 additive is really MoS2?
 
They use sub-micronic oil-INsoluble moly in that product (says on the bottle). They have recently attained TUV approval of effectiveness for the product as stated on their website. I'm currently using the "Motor Protect" Additive along with LM 5W-40. I can't say anything good or bad about the additive because all I've done is drive. It too has TUV approval with considerable wear metal reduction shown in their tests. It cost me too much money so I doubt I'll use it again.
 
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