Light switch/timer wiring help

[Quattro Pete]

I am trying to replace one of my light switches (basic no frills Leviton unit) with a timer switch (TI033).

I'm having a problem identifying the wiring coming into the existing switch as it's not color coded. Currently, there is one wire that is connected to the left side of the switch. This one I I am able to get a voltage reading on, so I'm guessing that's my line/black. There are two more wires on the right side of the switch, and I don't know what is what.

I found this Leviton wiring diagram, but I'm not 100% sure it's for my switch as it's showing more wires that I have:
http://www.smarthome.com/images/4295_wire_big.gif

Again, mine only has 1 wire on the left (presumably line/black) and 2 wires on the right.

I tried connecting the new timer switch assuming that the top right is load (blue), and bottom right is neutral, but it wasn't working right. The display on the timer appeared very briefly and then died away. Manual overriding the switch would not turn on the lights (which the switch was supposed to be controlling).

Either I'm not wiring it right or the timer switch is faulty. Any suggestions?

The manufacturer of the timer switch wasn't much help. They said "call an electrician." I thought I'd poke around a little more before I do that.


Also, here is the picture of the existing light switch that I pulled out. Does "COMMON" mean neutral?

 

[xxch4osxx]

I don't see a UL or CSA certification on that.

 

[Quattro Pete]

It says "UND. LAB. INC. LIST." on the side.

 

[Dan55]

It looks like a three way switch to me. And the one marked common is either the feed(LINE) or the switch leg to the fixture which it probably is because it is not hot(VOLTAGE).

 

[The_Jeff]

There are two ways of wiring a light.

Send the 2 (plus ground) conductor wire to the switch, nut the neutrals (white) together, put the hots (black) on the switch screws. In the instructions pdf they say "This switch will not work if there are not at least two white wires joined by a connector".

Or, you could be wired where they

Send the power to the light fixture, then drop a 2-conductor wire down to the switch to engage/disengage hot. One is supposed to wrap the white wire with black tape, IIRC, when they do this.

Fancy switches (like timers) need a neutral to run their own internal brains. Some, like X10, cheat and bleed a little current through the light bulb filament to run themselves. (This is a bad idea with the world going to CFLs though.)

It looks like by that diagram they had a switch with a short wiring pigtail of three colors, but stuck you with one where you have to hook your romex up to the screws.

 

[mahansm]

The switch requires three connections to work properly. The connection on the upper left in the picture must be connected to the common (white) lead in the box. The other two connections on the switch body go to the 120 VAC hot lead and to the hot lead on the device you are controlling. Unfortunately, the diagrams/picture are not explicit enough for me to determine which is which. If it's connected backwards, the over ride switch function should work but the time will only work when the override is on. If this is the case simply reverse the two black leads.

If all you've got in the wall box is a 2 conductor Romex (not counting the bare wire) the switch will not work in your application and you'll have to pull a 3 conductor Romex from the junction box.

The fourth connection on the lower side of the picture should, of course, be connected to the safety ground (bare wire/box).

Steve
MSEE

 

[Dan55]

THe timer switch you will need is for a three way switch. http://www.amazon.com/Aube-Switch-Sunrise-Sunset-TI072-3W/dp/tags-on-product/B003DKQXNM

 

[Quattro Pete]

Wow, this all sounds pretty confusing.

How about another way:

The new timer switch (which will replace the existing 3-way switch) has three wires coming out of it:
black
blue
white

So, I know that I need to connect the black to my hot wire (voltage).
The blue wire needs to be connected to the wire that was attached to the "COMMONS" screw.
But what do I do with the white wire? If I connect it to the third remaining wire it does not work.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: Dan55
THe timer switch you will need is for a three way switch. http://www.amazon.com/Aube-Switch-Sunrise-Sunset-TI072-3W/dp/tags-on-product/B003DKQXNM

So I just bought a wrong timer switch? Thanks for the link.

 

[Dan55]

Am i Correct that there is another switch that also controls the light.

 

[Quattro Pete]

You are correct.

 

[Dan55]

On the existing switch do you remember which wire went to the black screw.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Well, I know which wire, but I don't know what that wire does since all three wires look identical and all 3 disappear into a wire duct inside the wall.

All I know is that it wasn't the hot (voltage) wire.

 

[Dan55]

Can you return the timer switch? And can you put back the old switch and hook it up correctly, making sure the same wire goes on the black screw.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: Dan55
Can you return the timer switch?

Already did. And already ordered the 3-way one which you found above.

Quote:

And can you put back the old switch and hook it up correctly, making sure the same wire goes on the black screw.

I can, but I haven't for now since in about a week I'll be going at it again when the new timer switch arrives. For now, I just covered all the exposed wire ends. Whatever lights that switch operates, I don't need them working right now anyway.

 

[Quattro Pete]

However, I don't really understand the hookup diagram for the 3-way timer switch either:

I'll probably need an electrician here anyway...

 

[Dan55]

From what I can tell the new switch will have to be installed in the other switch location. Also the other location should have a neutral availabile so that it can function properly. http://www.aubetech.com/manuel/2/TI073.pdf QP I know it looks intimidating but the hookup is simple. As long as you have a nuetral at the other location you will not need a electrician .

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: Dan55
From what I can tell the new switch will have to be installed in the other switch location. Also the other location should have a neutral availabile so that it can function properly.

The other location also only has 3 wires, just like this location. How would I check if one of these three wires is neutral?

 

[Dan55]

Since a switch does not comsume power it does not need a neutral. If all the wires are connected to the switch at the other location then no nuetral is availabile. But you could be in luck if the wires are in a pipe and there is a neutral availibile at the other end of that pipe.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Thanks. But how would I recognize that one of the available wires is neutral (assuming there is one)?