LF brake hotter

Joined
Mar 18, 2008
Messages
75
Location
KC MO
06 Buick Lucerne

Recently replaced LF hub and noticed outer brake pad was worn more than inner and after checking I consistently have that brake running 25 degrees hotter than the right front. First guess was it was dragging or caliper sticking but I’ve checked both cold and also hot and the slide pins are free and the pads release right away when you let off the brake and I can turn the rotor by hand no problem. Worth worrying about? I’m going to put new pads and rotors on next week and thought I’d try to take care of this at the same time.
 
Joined
Mar 10, 2010
Messages
99
Location
Stittville, New York
A rare but something that can happen is that the rubber brake line is the problem.
This just happened to a friend and the problem was solved by replacing the rubber line.
 

RAR

Joined
Mar 6, 2016
Messages
263
Location
Minnesota
I agree with the hose too..

The 99 Dodge Ram 1500 we use for trash runs had new brake calipers, pads and rotors installed by me earlier this summer. The right side went on but the line had barely any fluid coming out. The original caliper on that side was working, no lock ups but it burned the pad and rotor badly.

Turns out the hose was constricted due to rust on the hose mount fittings. Over the many years, it slowly crushed the hose until it let fluid in, but not back out. I remembered someone else here on BITOG had this same thing happen so I replaced that hose. No issues since.
 
Joined
Aug 23, 2010
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pa
after a pad slap on my 11 fronty could not power bleed drivers front, thought the lines were the issue + mot being able to remove the corroded ends to put new lines on my local pro got er dun + said the bleeder itself was clogged + common on older vehicles!! a man gotta know his limitations + glad i have a great fair priced indy only a few blocks away!!
 

mbaker

Thread starter
Joined
Mar 18, 2008
Messages
75
Location
KC MO
I thought about the hose or caliper but wouldn’t it be noticeable if it was holding pressure when you try to turn it?

I messed with it tonight and bled the fronts just to see how that went. Both bled fine but after a drive with a little heavy brake right at the end now my LF was 80 hotter so I’m not sure what to think now. Maybe the LF isn’t hot as much as the RF is cold and not being applied as much as it should?
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2022
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39
I'd also check for rust jacking under the stainless shims or other binding of the pad ears.. Not visible till you remove them.

Paco
 

mbaker

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Joined
Mar 18, 2008
Messages
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Location
KC MO
Tried again tonight drove it and got them hot pulled in and took wheel off and snugged a couple lugs back down. Rotor was free and Caliper came right off. Tried pressing pedal a few times and caliper still released fine and was still loose. Cleaned and lubed pins just for good measure and still runs hot.

I’d think if it was still dragging it would be tighter to rotor and hard to get caliper off. When I’ve had calipers stick before it was noticeably tight and way hot. Without a heat gun I don’t know if you’d know it with this one outside of I noticed the outer pad being worn more.

Hate to start throwing caliper and hoses at it since there aren’t drivability issues. Maybe new pads and rotors as planned and go from there.
 

mbaker

Thread starter
Joined
Mar 18, 2008
Messages
75
Location
KC MO
Update: I think I figured it out. Just a week after lubing the pins I pulled it apart hot again and found the pins completely stuck. Turns out the rubber anti rattle bushing apparently would swell and stick intermittently. Cleaned the bracket and pins, removed bushing and relubed and now runs considerably cooler. Glad I found it but weird how it acted up at times and not others. It’s been doing it for awhile because I noticed the pads on the other side were still maybe 30% instead of completely shot. Long story short it all makes sense now just took a minute to get there.
 
Joined
Sep 20, 2016
Messages
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MN
Update: I think I figured it out. Just a week after lubing the pins I pulled it apart hot again and found the pins completely stuck. Turns out the rubber anti rattle bushing apparently would swell and stick intermittently. Cleaned the bracket and pins, removed bushing and relubed and now runs considerably cooler. Glad I found it but weird how it acted up at times and not others. It’s been doing it for awhile because I noticed the pads on the other side were still maybe 30% instead of completely shot. Long story short it all makes sense now just took a minute to get there.
There is a surprising amount of "brake lubes" out there that will swell and destroy the pin bushings and grommets. A lot of the permatex brand crud does it unless you watch the labels.
silicone based lubes are the best for pins and pin bushings.
 
Joined
Feb 27, 2009
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down in the park
Tried again tonight drove it and got them hot pulled in and took wheel off and snugged a couple lugs back down. Rotor was free and Caliper came right off. Tried pressing pedal a few times and caliper still released fine and was still loose. Cleaned and lubed pins just for good measure and still runs hot.

I’d think if it was still dragging it would be tighter to rotor and hard to get caliper off. When I’ve had calipers stick before it was noticeably tight and way hot. Without a heat gun I don’t know if you’d know it with this one outside of I noticed the outer pad being worn more.

Hate to start throwing caliper and hoses at it since there aren’t drivability issues. Maybe new pads and rotors as planned and go from there.

Have you considered the other side is underperforming?
 
Joined
Feb 27, 2009
Messages
8,073
Location
down in the park
Update: I think I figured it out. Just a week after lubing the pins I pulled it apart hot again and found the pins completely stuck. Turns out the rubber anti rattle bushing apparently would swell and stick intermittently. Cleaned the bracket and pins, removed bushing and relubed and now runs considerably cooler. Glad I found it but weird how it acted up at times and not others. It’s been doing it for awhile because I noticed the pads on the other side were still maybe 30% instead of completely shot. Long story short it all makes sense now just took a minute to get there.

As Tman220 said, silicone based lubes are best, they can take heat and don't care if water gets in.
 
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