Leak after Auto-Rx?

02supercrew · Sep 9, 2004

'02 5.4L Ford motor, 99,000 mi.

I have just completed the rinse phase of Auto-Rx. I did not have any leaks prior to the use of the Auto Rx and ST 10-30 for the cleaning and rinse phases.

I only did one treatment.

I now have a leak that has popped up after returning back to my regular regime of MC 5-20 every 3000 mi.

Is there any possiblity of correlation between not doing 2 treatments and going right back to MC 5-20?

I have purchased more Auto-Rx and planning on completing a 2nd treatment. I was just curious if any one had any leakage between treatments, and is it normal?

TIA!

427Z06 · Sep 9, 2004

Interesting. What seal is actually leaking? Cam covers, rear main, etc?

This is pure speculation on my part, but maybe the AutoRX cleaned out the "dirt" that prevented the seal from leaking before? And perhaps another treatment will recondition the seal where it will stop leaking. But if the seal is damaged, or a cam cover is not correctly torqued, I doubt AutoRX will help.

T-Keith · Sep 9, 2004

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=001941

Mine started with the cleaning phase. I'm told that a second treatment could stop leak, or it might not. Unfortunately it doesn't look like I'll get a chance to see.

-T

02supercrew · Sep 9, 2004

I'm hoping that it is just removed dirt that caused this, and that a 2nd treatment will fix it up.

It appears to be the rear main....or the head gasket on the drivers side....I'm leaning towards the head gasket as the starter has some oil on it(in either case not a real cheap fix). It could possibly be a valve cover, but does not look that way.

The starter and transmission bell are a little wet. It's really hard to see where is is comming from for sure.

It is relatively fresh oil, and I haven't noticed a loss of oil yet. I'm a bit over 1500 mi past my rinse phase.

I'm going to give the Auto-Rx 2nd phase a shot and keep my fingers crossed.

[ September 09, 2004, 04:08 PM: Message edited by: 02supercrew ]

Frank · Sep 9, 2004

Auto-Rx liquified contaminants that created a false seal after your second treatment with Auto-Rx do not use a non synthetic-semi synthetic high mileage oil.
Revisit Auto-Rx.com and read "How To Stop A seal Leak" you will have to drive anywhere from 100 to 3000 miles for reconditioned seal to restore proper pliability, than leak will stop. Your lucky any driving condition could have broke through a false seal leaving your engine in bad shape. Auto-Rx is much easier on the wallet than replacing a seal or engine.

02supercrew · Sep 9, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by Frank:
Auto-Rx liquified contaminants that created a false seal after your second treatment with Auto-Rx do not use a non synthetic-semi synthetic high mileage oil.
Revisit Auto-Rx.com and read "How To Stop A seal Leak" you will have to drive anywhere from 100 to 3000 miles for reconditioned seal to restore proper pliability, than leak will stop. Your lucky any driving condition could have broke through a false seal leaving your engine in bad shape. Auto-Rx is much easier on the wallet than replacing a seal or engine.

I guess using MC 5-20 is out... it's not a high milage oil, but it is a synthetic blend.

I'm not down playing Auto-Rx in any way, in fact I just ordered 3 more bottles, 1 for this truck and 2 for my wife's Taurus.

I sure hope you are right about the seal. I'm going to change the oil this after noon and then add the 2nd phase Auto-Rx when it gets here (hopefully it gets here before I leave on my 400 mi trip).

To me it seemed odd that a leak popped up after the rinse phase...I just needed some re-assurance that this was normal.

Changing a rear main is something that is out of this poor engineering student's capacity and funding at the immediate moment.

02supercrew · Sep 14, 2004

I just changed out the MC 5-20 with 10-30 ST and auto-rx.

The MC 5-20 had about 2900 mi on it....I drained out 5qts plus the filter. It uses 6 qts, so I figure it lost about half a qt. Not that bad I guess.

The leak appears to have stopped on its own with the 5-20 MC in it, the bottom of the trans bell is still wet (like some one just took a rag to wipe the oil off and some residue was left), but it no longer has the drip bead accumulation that it used to have.

Right now it appears that Auto-rx has saved the day for me.

Had me really scared, as this motor has been know to leak in this particular area in older higher milage 5.4l's, and runs about $2000 - $3000 dollars to fix.

I'll try to keep everyone posted on the progress.

Yuk · Sep 18, 2004

Frank says,

"... do not use a non synthetic-semi synthetic high mileage oil.
Revisit Auto-Rx.com and read "How To Stop A seal Leak" you will have to drive anywhere from 100 to 3000 miles for reconditioned seal to restore proper pliability, than leak will stop."

I'm not sure I quite understand what Frank means in the above quote and in other statements he has made. Does he mean:

1. Don't use a high mileage oil, regardless of whether it's synthetic or conventional?

OR

2. Don't use any kind of high mileage oil, or any kind synthetic oil. Only use conventional oil all the time, period?

I ask because I performed a “Stop A Seal Leak Application” on my 1992 Nissan Sentra and it’s still leaking at the front crank seal 4000 km after the treatments.

Here’s what I did:

200,520 km - Bought car with unknown conventional oil.
201,100 km - Drained conventional, replaced with GC 0w-30.
201,978 km - One month later noticed consumption, drained GC and started Auto Rx treatment with Petro Canada Maximum 5w30.
204,812 km - Started Auto Rx rinse with Petro Canada Maximum 5w30.
207,696 km - Started 2nd Auto Rx treatment with Pennzoil 5w30.
209,627 km - Started 2nd Auto Rx rinse with Esso XD-3 15w40.
213,411 km - Drained Auto Rx rinse oil and replaced with Mobil 1 15W-50.
In the last 4189 km I've added 3L of Mobil 1 top up oil:
1L of 15W-50
1L of 10w30
And most recently, in preparation for fall,
1L of 5w30

Is Frank saying that because I used Mobil 1 after the treatments the seal repair process was interrupted? Would a third treatment fix what the first two didn't?

02supercrew · Sep 21, 2004

Thats a real good question. I was under the impression that after the rinse phase, you could use any oil that you felt like.

Yuk · Sep 21, 2004

"Thats a real good question. I was under the impression that after the rinse phase, you could use any oil that you felt like. "

I thought so too, but since none of the experts have chimed in, it remains a mystery.

I asked in another thread if a third treatment might help. I still haven't really heard back on that one either.

I'm kind of hoping that my lack of success is due to an explainable application error. I really want Auto RX to work.

02supercrew · Oct 13, 2004

I have just finished up my second treatment and rinse. I have not had any more leakage since the beginning of the second phase.

I am going to drain the 10-30 ST from the rinse phase tonight, it has aboout 1200 mi on it, and the oil on the dipstick is still a good shade of honey.

Frank · Oct 15, 2004

Please reread the APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS for stopping a seal leak. You can't use synthetic or semi-synthetic or high mileage oil as if you do leak will start again. Stay with conventional and leak will not come back.

Gary Allan · Oct 15, 2004

quote:

Is Frank saying that because I used Mobil 1 after the treatments the seal repair process was interrupted? Would a third treatment fix what the first two didn't? -and-Thats a real good question. I was under the impression that after the rinse phase, you could use any oil that you felt like.

STEP 4
Rinsing Phase
Change the oil and oil filter (use non-synthetic oil for this step)

STEP 5
Completion Phase
Oil and Filter should next be changed between 2000 and 3000 miles.

It can take up to 3000 additional miles to completely stop the seal leak.
Once seal leaks are stopped then any oil may be used.

What appears to be missing, but is implied by the "release" after the completion phase allowing use of "any" oil, is that you continue to use conventional oil for up to 3000 additional miles.

Frank may advise another treatment, but I think a 3000 mile OCI with dino should put you back on track. I mean the engine is clean enough.

Again, he may be aware of other effects of going to synthetic too soon.

[ October 15, 2004, 10:50 PM: Message edited by: Gary Allan ]

Frank · Oct 15, 2004

If our application for seal leaks or sludge remonal give the impression that you can go back to a synthetic-semi synthetic-high mileage oil after cleaning with Auto-Rx IT IS WRONG YOU HAVE TO STAY WITH A Conventional OIL OR LEAK WILL COME BACK. If any of you feel our application has been less than clear on this point I apoligize and on your own integrity e-mail me your thoughts at [email protected]
and I will try to make it right. As Pres.Harry T. said the buck stops here.My guys have knocked themself out on www.cycle-rx.com (look at test results) and try and visualize what your engine is gaining after Auto-Rx

[ October 16, 2004, 10:19 AM: Message edited by: Frank ]

02supercrew · Oct 16, 2004

I really had to look for a 5-20 that didn't say syn blend on the bottle, I finally ended up with a Castrol 5-20.

It was tough not too dump in M1, infact I almost took back the dino Castrol 5-20 to get M1.

I feel that I'm well out of the woods, as I haven't had a leak since the interval between my Auto-Rx treatments. The last 2 drains have yeilded identical amounts, and I have not had any seepage what so ever.

I plan on running 3K on the Castrol 5-20, then I may entertain the idea of Mobil 1 5w30 or 0-20 on this 5.4L Ford.

Btw, Auto-rx really does not like low temps in a concentrate form, huh? I found out this moring when I started the first phase on my wifes Taurus. Last night it got down to 32F and I had all my stuff in the shed. Went to dump in the Auto-rx, and it was like a thick tube of grease!
Took it in inside and dunked it in a tub of hot water, and got the job done.

Guess I need to bring in the other bottle.

Should I be concerned with the Auto-Rx raising the cold flow of my oil during the cold temps that are knocking on the door for me?

Eddie · Oct 16, 2004

It may amazed some people but some of us run our engines/transmissions for 150,000 miles + on a good quality engine and traansmission oil, use a name brand gas and just follow the manufactures recomendations. They never add any secret potion to engine or trans and have a good running vehicle and no oil leaks. Maybe we mess too much too often causing problems??

Frank · Oct 16, 2004

Auto-Rx takes on the viscosity of your oil after you pour it in your oil reserve. If you store Auto-Rx outside in extremely cold waeather pour it under hot water and it will thin right out. Please don't microwave Auto-Rx is made up of natural occuring enzymes.

Yuk · Oct 17, 2004

quote:

If our application for seal leaks or sludge remonal give the impression that you can go back to a synthetic-semi synthetic-high mileage oil after cleaning with Auto-Rx IT IS WRONG YOU HAVE TO STAY WITH A Conventional OIL OR LEAK WILL COME BACK. If any of you feel our application has been less than clear on this point I apoligize and on your own integrity e-mail me your thoughts at [email protected]
and I will try to make it right.

Its very sad that I can't go back to synthetic. What am I going to do with all my GC and Amsoil 5w30 ASL?

Frank · Oct 18, 2004

Yuk you have to deceide if you want to go back to synthetic oil not Auto-Rx if you have a leak and it is now gone. Run at least 3000 miles and if you want go back to synthetic do so than.If leak comes back than you Auto-Rx again.

Auto-Rx works if you work it,sludge issues will always in my opinion call for non synthetic oil. By the way Auto-Rx in cold weather should always be brought into warm enviorment or run under hot water for a few minutes before using.

[ October 19, 2004, 04:58 AM: Message edited by: Frank ]

02supercrew · Oct 18, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by Frank:
Auto-Rx takes on the viscosity of your oil after you pour it in your oil reserve. If you store Auto-Rx outside in extremely cold waeather pour it under hot water and it will thin right out. Please don't microwave Auto-Rx is made up of natural occuring enzymes.

LOL, you mean I can't put some on my steak in the microwave, instead of A-1?

Thanks for all the help Frank!

Leak after Auto-Rx?

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