Leaf blower bogging

S

StillLearning

Joined
May 19, 2018
Messages
98
Location
CT
Hi all,

I was out doing some yard work over the weekend and about an 90 minutes and 1 1/2 tanks of fuel into my leaf blowing the engine started to slowly lose power and not want to take any fuel without bogging down until about 10 minutes later it wouldn't run anymore. Upon trying to restart I was only able to start it with the choke open, even though it was well warmed up. It was not running well, but running, and I had to keep increasing the amount of choke in order to keep it running until it wouldn't run no matter what I did, which was about another 5 or ten minutes of running. Upon attempted restart, the pull cord was not hard to pull as if it the motor was seizing.

I let it cool off completely and tried starting it again a few hours later and it started and ran like it always does for about 5 minutes and then started bogging again like it didn't want to take the fuel.

This is about a 10 or 12 year old Husqvarna b125 2 stoke blower and I am running Echo 50:1 fuel mix. It probably has about 100hrs on it, always stored indoors.

Wondering if anyone has any ideas on this or if it is maybe just shot and time for a new one. It was not an expensive blower but has always run very well.

Thanks
 
The carb is clogged or the diaphragm fuel pump is getting weak or fuel is restricted in tubing or tank. Id say check tank and fuel lines and possibly overhaul or replace the carb if it problematic. If you continue to run it lean you will burn it up.
 
A dirty air filter can cause this but it sounds like the spark arrestor screen in the muffler might be stopped up. Take the muffler off and If the screen is glazed over, heat the screen with a small propane torch to burn off the baked on gook.
 
Thank you for the quick replies. I will take a look look into these suggestions and report back if I find anything.
 
95% chance it is the carb. If you can get it running play with the adjustment screw just a little bit and see if that clears it up. New carbs on Ebay are super cheap and it should be a 20 minute swap. Just don't expect long life out of the chinacarb, 3 years and you will probably need a new one.

Checking the screen is easy, do that as well. Pull the plug and make sure the gap looks ok.
 
gman2304 said:
A dirty air filter can cause this but it sounds like the spark arrestor screen in the muffler might be stopped up. Take the muffler off and If the screen is glazed over, heat the screen with a small propane torch to burn off the baked on gook.
Click to expand...
A clogged filter will cause the mixture to go rich (not enough air). The fact that the choke was making it run better means it was running lean (not enough gas) ...the opposite condition.
 
Check all of the above and look at the fuel lines. If its 10 years old there is a good chance that the lines have started to harden and you may have a crack in them causing it to suck air into the fuel line. When mine went bad the line cracked just above the fuel filter in the tank so everytime I got down to half a tank it would start acting up. That one took me awhile to find.
 
It would not hurt to rebuild the carb new gas line and gas filter as well as a nee air filter.
 
Just for the heck of it, next time this happens, loosen your fuel cap. In some cases, it can have the one way vent get finnicky and after a certain period of time the vac in the tank is more than the engine can overcome. The fix for that is of course, a new tank cap, or if SHTF and it's all you've got, you could put a hole in the valve in it so it can always suck air in.

However at a decade old, yeah it is due for a carb clean/rebuild if it hasn't happened recently. I wouldn't chase anything else until you've done that as it is needed sooner than later.
 
If it has a primer bulb, sometimes they crack and leak air. Can cause all sorts of weird operational issues. Cheap and easy to change.

Same for the fuel lines. They can crack and leak air.

Those Husky blowers are pretty good. It may be worth fixing. Many of the new homeowner blowers have an exhaust catalyst and just don't have the power.
 
^^^^
That I was planning to say next....

Saved my Tomos 770 (Husquarna L77 clone) chainsaw with that....was sitting for a 30yrs in neighbours attic....literally unused...he trew it into trashbin...

It was PITA to start/operate/....I have set it properly...and after 5-10minutes it was back to previous state :(

I’ve been working on the saw for over a year(sporadically...when I was in mood)....untill I came to a "what if" moment....and changed at first glance brand new crank seals...

And now I have brand new 40years old vintage chainsaw which works... :D
 
Wow, thank you for all the replies. I only had a couple of minutes to look at it last night, but it appears that almost everything is contained within the plastic shell. I will have to do some disassembly to inspect the fuel lines and look into some of the other suggestions.

I will work through easiest suggestions first and try taking off the small screen that is accessible in front of the muffler held on by a few screws (flame arrestor?), check the air filter, spark plug gap and the fuel cap. I check all of those without opening the case. If that doesn't help anything I will have to dig a little deeper.

I will try to update this post as I progress.
 
Crank seals can be changed without too much hassle! Just use screwdriver or hook to pry them out! Grease them on reasemble!

Regarding dissassembling CDI unit....just use some kind of "puncture" tool...and mark CDI plate on 3 spots that way that you will have scratch on both sides...on a cdi plate and body of engine...so you wont have hard times with setting its timing ;)
 
My parents had an issue like this recently. It was a mud wasp nest someplace in the intake.
 
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