Lead Acid Battery to AGM

I disabled the “smart charge” long ago. It runs off the alternators internal voltage regulator. Like I said - it now floats between 13.2-13.5 after it senses the battery is full according to it. Never below.
Gotcha. Then I’ve got nothing. Based off of experience with Nissans efb, which I have no idea why they used them. And now an agm that I haven’t had long enough to draw a conclusion and using a flooded battery in our 18 rogue for the last 40 months. I found efb in less than 4 yrs has reached its useful life, the flooded battery I was able to bring back to 90% with a Noco 5 and the agm thus far doesn’t fully charge via the alternator. So I guess it comes down to cost more so than warranty. My replacement batteries all make it past the warranty, but not much longer. I initially went to Walmart for the Max battery but couldn’t get one that tested 100% and all were at least 3 month old in a group 47. I stopped at Menards and more of the same. Ended up grabbing a deka gold with less warranty but a good price.
 
Gotcha. Then I’ve got nothing. Based off of experience with Nissans efb, which I have no idea why they used them. And now an agm that I haven’t had long enough to draw a conclusion and using a flooded battery in our 18 rogue for the last 40 months. I found efb in less than 4 yrs has reached its useful life, the flooded battery I was able to bring back to 90% with a Noco 5 and the agm thus far doesn’t fully charge via the alternator. So I guess it comes down to cost more so than warranty. My replacement batteries all make it past the warranty, but not much longer. I initially went to Walmart for the Max battery but couldn’t get one that tested 100% and all were at least 3 month old in a group 47. I stopped at Menards and more of the same. Ended up grabbing a deka gold with less warranty but a good price.
I agree that the Nissan charging setup is lacking.

When I originally disabled the first of my two Nissan smart chargers the then almost done battery actually perked up for a while - as measured by my tester.

However, I replaced all 3 batteries a year ago, and the 2 lead acid's in the other vehicles are not holding up that well, but the AGM is still above rated CCA, per my tester, even though it tells me its at a constant state of undercharged 🤷‍♂️
 
Right or wrong - I get AGM if that’s what it came with - otherwise, the biggest standard battery that will fit …
 
I disabled the “smart charge” long ago. It runs off the alternators internal voltage regulator. Like I said - it now floats between 13.2-13.5 after it senses the battery is full according to it. Never below.

I'm happy mine seems to stay in 13.8-13.9V region at all times. It came with an AGM from the factory.
 
agreed, but not nearly every AGM equipped car does this, most have a BMS programmed NOT to fully charge an AGM. They only go to 14.4-14.6V when braking or possibly coasting. They often aim for 80% SOC.
Well, if 80% SOC is the target, then my now "dumb" Nissan charge profile seems to get me right about there, so perhaps I am golden!
 
You might want to measure your battery tray & do a little research, IIRC some Hondas can handle a bigger battery than the tiny 51R.
You can definitely do this in Accords, Odysseys, etc but not sure about a Civic. We've got a '12 Civic and I think I briefly looked into the ability to put in a larger battery (it specs the 51R as well) and it wasn't feasible or wasn't possible.
 
Well, if 80% SOC is the target, then my now "dumb" Nissan charge profile seems to get me right about there, so perhaps I am golden!

I don't know if it's a good thing, the idea is that there's always capacity to recuperate some energy while braking. You know, 0.1 mpg better in fuel consumption tests. But does you nissan go to full charge under braking?
 
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