can someone please post the procedure to use LC as an engine flush? thanks
LC FLUSH
- Thread starter TEXDOG
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Per Molakule's report at http://www.lubecontrol.com/reports.htm
4.0 Further Suggestions and Applications.
4.1 Penetrating oil. I mixed by volume, 70% Lube Control and 30% synthetic Dexron III ATF to produce an optically pleasant and very effective penetrating oil. I applied this mixture to muffler and tail pipe clamps. Rust and corrosion products immediately dripped with the solution and once the nuts were removed, the threads of the bolts were like new. The remaining oil tenaciously clung to the assembly to protect it from rust.
4.2 Engine Flush. As stated above, 16 oz. of Lube Control in 3.8 Liters or 4 quarts of oil before an oil change, with the directions to run engine at fast idle for 15 minutes, and then drain oil.
4.3 2-cycle and 4-cycle pre-lube. Lube Control can be used as a pre-lube for end-of-season storage or for pre-conditioning the rings and removing combustion deposits before startup. Remove spark plug and turn flywheel to place piston at bottom of stroke. Place 30-60 cc or 1-2 oz. of lube control into the spark plug hole. Replace spark plug and set overnight. This will soften carbon deposits on the piston and free stuck ring(s), as per experiment above. The next day, slowly turn flywheel to force lubricant onto the liner and into combustion chamber, in order to lubricate cylinder and free stuck rings. The lubricating and anti-rust properties of LC will insure that no rust forms on the rings as well. Either store or fire up engine. I used this procedure on a weed eater and two chainsaws. Engine will smoke for about 30 seconds after ignition so this must be done in an open area!
4.0 Further Suggestions and Applications.
4.1 Penetrating oil. I mixed by volume, 70% Lube Control and 30% synthetic Dexron III ATF to produce an optically pleasant and very effective penetrating oil. I applied this mixture to muffler and tail pipe clamps. Rust and corrosion products immediately dripped with the solution and once the nuts were removed, the threads of the bolts were like new. The remaining oil tenaciously clung to the assembly to protect it from rust.
4.2 Engine Flush. As stated above, 16 oz. of Lube Control in 3.8 Liters or 4 quarts of oil before an oil change, with the directions to run engine at fast idle for 15 minutes, and then drain oil.
4.3 2-cycle and 4-cycle pre-lube. Lube Control can be used as a pre-lube for end-of-season storage or for pre-conditioning the rings and removing combustion deposits before startup. Remove spark plug and turn flywheel to place piston at bottom of stroke. Place 30-60 cc or 1-2 oz. of lube control into the spark plug hole. Replace spark plug and set overnight. This will soften carbon deposits on the piston and free stuck ring(s), as per experiment above. The next day, slowly turn flywheel to force lubricant onto the liner and into combustion chamber, in order to lubricate cylinder and free stuck rings. The lubricating and anti-rust properties of LC will insure that no rust forms on the rings as well. Either store or fire up engine. I used this procedure on a weed eater and two chainsaws. Engine will smoke for about 30 seconds after ignition so this must be done in an open area!
thanks lcd, how do you feel about adding the 16oz then driving 5 miles to my mechanic for an oil change instead of doing the idle thing?
thanks MolaKule
Is the flush effective? I just don't want to waste my 16oz of LC. Further more, will the 16oz make my oil overfilled (even for fast idle in 15 minutes)?
Thanks!
Thanks!
and in addition to that, is there any need to dump that oil if there is no change in color or anything? Would it be harmful to run it for more than the specified amount of time?
MolaKule
Staff member
5 miles would be about the same as 20 minutes of idling, so I see no problem with a brisk 5 mile drive to your mechanic for a drain.
Your oil's viscosity would never drop below a 25 weight anyway, which is a consideration with any flush. With LC, that's no problem.
So many aftermarket flushes out there are about 2 cSt (or less) and thin the heck out of the oil, which is why THEY recommend no driving, just idling.
Your oil's viscosity would never drop below a 25 weight anyway, which is a consideration with any flush. With LC, that's no problem.
So many aftermarket flushes out there are about 2 cSt (or less) and thin the heck out of the oil, which is why THEY recommend no driving, just idling.
bump for my quesion
I think it was pointed out here recently that the instructions printed on the LC measuring bottle say to add 16 ounces as the initial dose, then one ounce per 1000 miles.
From Molakule's Report printed at their website, comes the recommendation for an initial dose of 6 ounces, replenished each 1000 miles with 2 - 3 ounces.
Someone commented that over a 10,000 mile run the amount of LC would be about the same.
From Odis's recommendation, I doubt that leaving the 16 ounces in would do any harm. Would be wasteful if you don't run to the 10,000 mile oCI.
MolaKule
Staff member
I would not leave 16 oz. of LC in the engine for the full OCI. There is a chemistry reason for not leaving that much LC in there.
After the flush, change oil and filter.
After the flush, change oil and filter.
MolaKule
Staff member
No need for a rinse cycle.
Ok, I'm not on crack. I thought I read that.
TEXDOG and others; LC as Mola has pointed out in our testing can be used as a flush but in my opinion is not BEST used for that.
It will effectively strip out surface deposits and residual oil previously used but it does not have the dispersant capability or deep cleaning capability that RX has. Especially in a flush type interval of a few miles or minutes. I think that is a waste unless you need to clear out a oil brand for a switch. We use it for that frequently with 20w20 ND purge oil.
I prefer Auto-RX for a deep cleaning then use LC for the maintenance anti-oxidation.
You get the best bang for the buck on both products that way.
Terry
It will effectively strip out surface deposits and residual oil previously used but it does not have the dispersant capability or deep cleaning capability that RX has. Especially in a flush type interval of a few miles or minutes. I think that is a waste unless you need to clear out a oil brand for a switch. We use it for that frequently with 20w20 ND purge oil.
I prefer Auto-RX for a deep cleaning then use LC for the maintenance anti-oxidation.
You get the best bang for the buck on both products that way.
Terry
safe to flush a motorcycle engine with lube control for the idle period (whatever it was 5 min?) and change the oil out (but not filter) before putting the bike up for winter? I am going to run it if no problem but I dont think I am going to change my filter because it only has 2K miles on it and they are pretty expensive, besides I replace it in spring.
Wait a minute Ranger, why not drain the oil and then use new oil to cut the concentration back to whatever you want. Save the remainder for use later.
I just sold a vechile that had been sitting for 2 years. I had left the same oil in it for two years. I never intended to park it for so long! I changed the oil and added 16 onces of Lube Control to it!
I ran it for about 5 minutes. I also put it on a charger to charge the battery for about 3 hours. My friend lives about 15 minutes from my house. He was going to drain it and refill when he made it home. I only had 20W50 so that is what I put in it.
I figure that this 23 minute flush has to help clean and condition the parts inside. I am sure that their had to be some rusting and corrision going on.
I am sure that the seals stiffened up a bit. The vechile never burnt any oil at all before being parked for two years. It had small blue puffs comeing from the exhaust on each shift! The amazeing thing is that the vechile started right up and ran great!
I ran it for about 5 minutes. I also put it on a charger to charge the battery for about 3 hours. My friend lives about 15 minutes from my house. He was going to drain it and refill when he made it home. I only had 20W50 so that is what I put in it.
I figure that this 23 minute flush has to help clean and condition the parts inside. I am sure that their had to be some rusting and corrision going on.
I am sure that the seals stiffened up a bit. The vechile never burnt any oil at all before being parked for two years. It had small blue puffs comeing from the exhaust on each shift! The amazeing thing is that the vechile started right up and ran great!
My Garden Tractor hold around 2 quarts of oil. I added 4 onces of LC to it as a flush. It now has about two hours of runing time on the LC. The oil is about 4 times darker and dirter now. It is about 5 years old and get used to cut grass, mulch leaves and plow snow. I normaly change the oil twice a year. It gets 15W40 in the summer and some type of 30Wt inthe winter 5W30,10W30 etc..... Once a year I normly run some type of injector or carb cleaner through it. It must have a lot of varnish in it to get that dirty after one dose of LC.
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