Lawnmower engine oil

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Would it be a good idea to use a 4-stroke motorcycle engine oil (such as Mobil 1 MX4T) in a lawnmower engine? Wouldn't it be "better", since, unlike automotive engine oil, it is formulated specifically for air-cooled engines? Or does it even matter?
Thanks.
 
I wouldn't put $8 per qt oil in a cheap lawnmower engine. They run forever on whatever you dump in them anyway.
 
Russ, try running a search of this subsection using the word "lawnmower" or just plain "mower" and you'll find a lot more discussion.

I'm particularly fond of the 15w40 oils in these applications.
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--- Bror Jace
 
Why do you guys recommend 15w40 over the spec'd 10w30? What's better about the different weight. I understand the 10w30 will shear down -- but doesn't the engine manufacturer know this when they write the oil spec? If 15w40 was better for it, I wonder why the factory didn't call for it?

Thanks,
 
quote:

Originally posted by Jason Adcock:
....If 15w40 was better for it, I wonder why the factory didn't call for it?

Thanks,


Because so many people are oil illiterate, they would never find 15w40. Or if they did find it, they would think they had the wrong oil, since 15w40 is almost always sold as diesel engine oil. That's my opinion, anyway.
 
quote:

Originally posted by wavinwayne:

quote:

Originally posted by Jason Adcock:
....If 15w40 was better for it, I wonder why the factory didn't call for it?

Thanks,


Because so many people are oil illiterate, they would never find 15w40. Or if they did find it, they would think they had the wrong oil, since 15w40 is almost always sold as diesel engine oil. That's my opinion, anyway.


I've been using Mobil 1 5W30 in my Honda 5.5 hp OHC mower for about 3 years, changing yearly. I got an hour meter from Sears, and found out I was doing about 50 hours a year. The Honda uses absolutely no oil in this amount of time. This year, I have changed to Mobil 1 0W30. It seems to start a little easier and rev a bit more freely. I am tempted to see if I can find a few quarts of Mobil 1 0W20 oil to try in it.

I figure that the lighter oil is giving better fuel economy, better splash lubrication, and more horsepower. The 5W30 has always retained a nice golden color, and I have been tempted to leave it in for two years, but I wanted to try the 0W30 this year.
 
“I understand the 10w30 will shear down -- but doesn't the engine manufacturer know this when they write the oil spec?”

Jason, I wouldn’t count on it. In a couple of the more extensive oil threads in this subsection, I go into the minor differences between current Group II+ (‘conventional) and Group III (‘synthetic’) oils. However, in B&S’s recommendations, they treat these two as if they were completely different animals.
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A decade or more ago, when the difference between ‘synthetic’ and ‘conventional’ was the difference between a Group I oil and a Group IV base oil, I think the manufacturers’ specs were appropriate. But now, they seem terribly out-of-date and even smack of plain old ignorance. And what about the synthetic blends? Many manufacturers don’t even address them.
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What about Royal Purple 10w30 (synthetic) which shears down quickly? I’d rather have Schaeffer 10w30 Micron Moly (mineral oil) for an air-cooled engine because I’d bet almost anything that it will stay in grade longer. Actually most PCMOs have had their barrier anti-wear additive amounts slashed and seem prone (or even designed) to shear down before the 2,000 or 3,000 mile mark for national average fuel economy reasons.

Part of me realizes it would be hard for the manufacturers to keep up with oil formulations which have been changing every handful of years, lately. That’s why their recommendations are the way they are: generic and out of date
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Of course, most manufacturers will be happy to sell you their own brand of oil … but you know it’s outrageously priced and not nearly worth it. Probably merely an older formulation with extra ZDDP.
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As tmorris1 says above, most of these engines do really well on just about any kind of oil ... even if it isn’t changed often enough. So, is it really worth the manufacturers’ time to thoroughly research oils? Make sure customers get at least a dozen years of solid use from their motors? Probably not.
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I don’t use straight-weight oils for anything anymore. For high-stressed air-cooled engines, 15w40 is a little easier flowing at start-up, has a killer additive package, the extra weight probably offers a bit more protection in these older design engines and if it shears down a touch, you’re still solidly in 30 weight territory.
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I have single and twin cylinder, air and liquid-cooled power equipment engines and all of them seem to love the 15w40 oils (mostly Schaeffer’s synthetic blend) that I feed them.

--- Bror Jace
 
Any 10w30 synthetic will work fine in lawnmower engines....I have the S2000, 0w30 in my 1990 John Deere 625 (17 Hp Kawa engine) and that grade works great as well.

I ran the last batch of Amsoil 5w30 in this engine for three seasons (about 75 hrs) and it still was very clean with the full flow filtering system....

The main benefits to running an ACEA, A3/B4 quality, PAO/Ester synthetic in these small air cooled engines are noticably better power, lower engine temps (which prevents pinging) and higher fuel efficiency.


TS
 
quote:

Originally posted by Russ:
Would it be a good idea to use a 4-stroke motorcycle engine oil (such as Mobil 1 MX4T) in a lawnmower engine? Wouldn't it be "better", since, unlike automotive engine oil, it is formulated specifically for air-cooled engines? Or does it even matter?
Thanks.


I've wondered the same thing and in fact, when I get a new mower I'll be using MX4T in it.

I currently have a mower here that's perfectly usable except for the worn out POS Briggs 12hp engine. It's the second time I've had this happen even though I've always run quality oil in them and changed it often as needed.

IMO, paying $6 or $8 for oil is a small price to pay if you can get long enough life from the engine that the surrounding mower is worn out at the roughly same time. I've yet to see a Briggs run on low dollar oil make it that far...
 
We have a 82 Cadet with a 8hp briggs. Do these engines really wear out??? It was always ran on whatever cheap dollar store oil my Grandmother would buy. I wonder how many hours are on it.
 
With my 4.5 HP B&S powered push mower, I used Valvoline straight 30w for the first several years. The last couple years I tried Valvoline 10w30 and didn't notice much difference, although it may have pull started a bit easier. This Spring I has some Valvoline DuraMax 10w-40 conventional left over, so I thought I would give it a try. The mower has never run better/smoother, plus when the heat of Summer arrives, I will feel better that I now have a 40w in there.

The manual says to change the oil after 25 hrs. With the small yard at the old house, it would accumulate about 28 hr of run time for a year's total. It takes twice as long to mow the yard at the new house, so the mower will get a mid year oil change alone with a blade sharpening, fresh spark plug and air filter from now on.
 
04SpecV, I think you're correct. The consensus here is that the engines in power equipment will often outlast the machine they were originally installed in, even with little or no maintenance.

But if you have a prized toy you like and/or depend on, why not give it that little bit extra TLC? Isn't it worth knowing you can run them harder and still have them soldier on for years with no loss of power, easy starting and no embarassing smoke?

What does it cost you ... an extra $2-3 per year?
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I have been thinking about splash lubrication, however. I wonder if the thinner oil actually does splash better and end up being the superior protector for these motors ... hmmm ...

--- Bror Jace
 
I actually do use decent oil in my toys. That was just her bad habbit
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I put a bit of Mobil 1 15W50, 5W30 in it tho for fun.
 
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