MolaKule
Staff member
Bump for the most recent discussion in OTC Oil Additives.
Laboratory Analysis of MMO
- Thread starter MolaKule
- Start date
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
At 4oz. per 10 gal. that comes out to 320:1 ratio ... At closer to 2 ~ 3 oz. per 10 gal would perhaps still give you a bit more lube in the E10 dry gas while not over doing it ?
*So would TC-W3 in a 640:1 ratio of oil to gas
At 4oz. per 10 gal. that comes out to 320:1 ratio ... At closer to 2 ~ 3 oz. per 10 gal would perhaps still give you a bit more lube in the E10 dry gas while not over doing it ?
*So would TC-W3 in a 640:1 ratio of oil to gas
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I just poured in 1 qt of MMO in a Chevy 2.0L GTDI (LTG) that has 93k miles. When I started maintaining the engine, it had 68k miles. The original/current owner said that the local Cadillac dealership had changed the oil since the car/engine was brand new in 2015. The Caddy dealer swore that semi-synthetic was all that was needed. Once the owner used up the free dealer oil changes, they had it changed at Belle Tire with Mobil 1 synthetic.
Opening the filler cap, I can see a thin layer of sludge around the fill port. The dipstick also had signs of sludge, and I had to clean off the sludge using brake cleaner. I've done 3 oil changes on it already, each time using Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30. With fresh oil, the oil on the dipstick was clear amber. Just driving it a day after an oil change, the dipstick oil becomes pitch black. The engine uses up about 3-4 quarts every 7500 miles. I add about 2 quarts by 5000 miles.
BTW - E10 or E20 is often painted as an evil fuel, but for those with GTDI engines (like EcoBoost), running E30-E47 allows for running a lot more timing and boost as the alcohol allows for evaporative charge cooling which raises the effective octane well above pump gas ratings. If you are running a tuned EcoBoost or tuned GTDI engine and sticking with 93 octane, you are leaving a lot on the table. The Bosch DI systems (HPFP and injectors) are generally designed to run up to E100/14% methanol, and most of the Fords share the same fuel tanks as their flex fuel counterparts. FWIW my dad still uses the regular E10 pump gas for his 1980s Craftsman lawnmower without any problems.
Opening the filler cap, I can see a thin layer of sludge around the fill port. The dipstick also had signs of sludge, and I had to clean off the sludge using brake cleaner. I've done 3 oil changes on it already, each time using Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30. With fresh oil, the oil on the dipstick was clear amber. Just driving it a day after an oil change, the dipstick oil becomes pitch black. The engine uses up about 3-4 quarts every 7500 miles. I add about 2 quarts by 5000 miles.
BTW - E10 or E20 is often painted as an evil fuel, but for those with GTDI engines (like EcoBoost), running E30-E47 allows for running a lot more timing and boost as the alcohol allows for evaporative charge cooling which raises the effective octane well above pump gas ratings. If you are running a tuned EcoBoost or tuned GTDI engine and sticking with 93 octane, you are leaving a lot on the table. The Bosch DI systems (HPFP and injectors) are generally designed to run up to E100/14% methanol, and most of the Fords share the same fuel tanks as their flex fuel counterparts. FWIW my dad still uses the regular E10 pump gas for his 1980s Craftsman lawnmower without any problems.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
My Hyundai 2.4 GDI runs no better on 93, versus 87 octane.
But our Kia 2.0 Multi-Port F.I. shows noticeably better gas pedal response on red-to-green light acceleration with 93.
I only use Shell, Mobil or BP top-tier gasoline
But our Kia 2.0 Multi-Port F.I. shows noticeably better gas pedal response on red-to-green light acceleration with 93.
I only use Shell, Mobil or BP top-tier gasoline
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
So would MMO thin down an oil grade if you're adding a few ounces to an OCI?
Depends on how thin that oil is to begin with and how much MMO is added.
So would MMO thin down an oil grade if you're adding a few ounces to an OCI?
Depends on how thin that oil is to begin with and how much MMO is added.
Originally Posted by metroplex
I just poured in 1 qt of MMO in a Chevy 2.0L GTDI (LTG) that has 93k miles. When I started maintaining the engine, it had 68k miles. The original/current owner said that the local Cadillac dealership had changed the oil since the car/engine was brand new in 2015. The Caddy dealer swore that semi-synthetic was all that was needed. Once the owner used up the free dealer oil changes, they had it changed at Belle Tire with Mobil 1 synthetic.
Opening the filler cap, I can see a thin layer of sludge around the fill port. The dipstick also had signs of sludge, and I had to clean off the sludge using brake cleaner. I've done 3 oil changes on it already, each time using Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30. With fresh oil, the oil on the dipstick was clear amber. Just driving it a day after an oil change, the dipstick oil becomes pitch black. The engine uses up about 3-4 quarts every 7500 miles. I add about 2 quarts by 5000 miles.
BTW - E10 or E20 is often painted as an evil fuel, but for those with GTDI engines (like EcoBoost), running E30-E47 allows for running a lot more timing and boost as the alcohol allows for evaporative charge cooling which raises the effective octane well above pump gas ratings. If you are running a tuned EcoBoost or tuned GTDI engine and sticking with 93 octane, you are leaving a lot on the table. The Bosch DI systems (HPFP and injectors) are generally designed to run up to E100/14% methanol, and most of the Fords share the same fuel tanks as their flex fuel counterparts. FWIW my dad still uses the regular E10 pump gas for his 1980s Craftsman lawnmower without any problems.
Anybody around here that uses e10 in their outdoor power equipment regrets it after one or 2 seasons. I have pictures of the inside of my father in law's lawnmower to prove it plus tests have been done that showed the same result. Even a couple different fuel stabilizers tested didn't prevent e10 from going bad while sitting in the test I saw recently. I'd like to see more fuel stabilizers tested though to see of them have any effect.
...Which reminds me I need to go help my coworker drain the fuel out of his snowblower and see if we can get it to run again. The carb is probably destroyed inside already, but fingers crossed.
I just poured in 1 qt of MMO in a Chevy 2.0L GTDI (LTG) that has 93k miles. When I started maintaining the engine, it had 68k miles. The original/current owner said that the local Cadillac dealership had changed the oil since the car/engine was brand new in 2015. The Caddy dealer swore that semi-synthetic was all that was needed. Once the owner used up the free dealer oil changes, they had it changed at Belle Tire with Mobil 1 synthetic.
Opening the filler cap, I can see a thin layer of sludge around the fill port. The dipstick also had signs of sludge, and I had to clean off the sludge using brake cleaner. I've done 3 oil changes on it already, each time using Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30. With fresh oil, the oil on the dipstick was clear amber. Just driving it a day after an oil change, the dipstick oil becomes pitch black. The engine uses up about 3-4 quarts every 7500 miles. I add about 2 quarts by 5000 miles.
BTW - E10 or E20 is often painted as an evil fuel, but for those with GTDI engines (like EcoBoost), running E30-E47 allows for running a lot more timing and boost as the alcohol allows for evaporative charge cooling which raises the effective octane well above pump gas ratings. If you are running a tuned EcoBoost or tuned GTDI engine and sticking with 93 octane, you are leaving a lot on the table. The Bosch DI systems (HPFP and injectors) are generally designed to run up to E100/14% methanol, and most of the Fords share the same fuel tanks as their flex fuel counterparts. FWIW my dad still uses the regular E10 pump gas for his 1980s Craftsman lawnmower without any problems.
Anybody around here that uses e10 in their outdoor power equipment regrets it after one or 2 seasons. I have pictures of the inside of my father in law's lawnmower to prove it plus tests have been done that showed the same result. Even a couple different fuel stabilizers tested didn't prevent e10 from going bad while sitting in the test I saw recently. I'd like to see more fuel stabilizers tested though to see of them have any effect.
...Which reminds me I need to go help my coworker drain the fuel out of his snowblower and see if we can get it to run again. The carb is probably destroyed inside already, but fingers crossed.
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Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Anybody around here that uses e10 in their outdoor power equipment regrets it after one or 2 seasons. I have pictures of the inside of my father in law's lawnmower to prove it plus tests have been done that showed the same result. Even a couple different fuel stabilizers tested didn't prevent e10 from going bad while sitting in the test I saw recently. I'd like to see more fuel stabilizers tested though to see of them have any effect.
While some people have a horse shoe up their rear it doesn't convince me to take the same chance . Which reminds me I need to go help my coworker drain the fuel out of his snowblower and see if we can get it to run again. The carb is probably destroyed inside already, but fingers crossed.
When people make these kinds of posts I really just don't understand that. I live in southeastern Wisconsin which is an EPA nonattainment area and we've only been able to purchase RFG since the early 90s. No E0 here anywhere in this six county area, not even at the Milwaukee marina. I have a 28 year old lawn mower, a 20 year old garden tractor, snow thrower and chain saw, and an old weed trimmer. All of them have run on E10 (probably MBTE RFG in the beginning) and none of them are "destroyed" inside, in fact all are running just fine. I don't always drain out he leftover fuel after the winter/summer season either, sometimes I do but lately not so much (neither do I use any sort of fuel stabilizer). I had a carb bowl gasket leak on the lawnmower about 10 years ago and so far that's been about it. So bottom like either you and your father buy some pretty cheap OPE or you're not taking care of it in some way I can't understand.
I'm not a fan of RFG, I'd rather have the higher BTU content of E0. But I also just do not see these hideous problems you're describing. I also don't have a horse shoe up my rear, whatever the heck that is supposed to symbolize.
Anybody around here that uses e10 in their outdoor power equipment regrets it after one or 2 seasons. I have pictures of the inside of my father in law's lawnmower to prove it plus tests have been done that showed the same result. Even a couple different fuel stabilizers tested didn't prevent e10 from going bad while sitting in the test I saw recently. I'd like to see more fuel stabilizers tested though to see of them have any effect.
While some people have a horse shoe up their rear it doesn't convince me to take the same chance . Which reminds me I need to go help my coworker drain the fuel out of his snowblower and see if we can get it to run again. The carb is probably destroyed inside already, but fingers crossed.
When people make these kinds of posts I really just don't understand that. I live in southeastern Wisconsin which is an EPA nonattainment area and we've only been able to purchase RFG since the early 90s. No E0 here anywhere in this six county area, not even at the Milwaukee marina. I have a 28 year old lawn mower, a 20 year old garden tractor, snow thrower and chain saw, and an old weed trimmer. All of them have run on E10 (probably MBTE RFG in the beginning) and none of them are "destroyed" inside, in fact all are running just fine. I don't always drain out he leftover fuel after the winter/summer season either, sometimes I do but lately not so much (neither do I use any sort of fuel stabilizer). I had a carb bowl gasket leak on the lawnmower about 10 years ago and so far that's been about it. So bottom like either you and your father buy some pretty cheap OPE or you're not taking care of it in some way I can't understand.
I'm not a fan of RFG, I'd rather have the higher BTU content of E0. But I also just do not see these hideous problems you're describing. I also don't have a horse shoe up my rear, whatever the heck that is supposed to symbolize.
Originally Posted by metroplex
I just poured in 1 qt of MMO in a Chevy 2.0L GTDI (LTG) that has 93k miles. I've done 3 oil changes on it already, each time using Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30.
Not sure why you think diluting a $12/qt, specially-formulated, proven, synthetic oil with a great track record with a $4/qt 80-year old formula oil additive that literally adds nothing to the oil you poured it in makes sense, but enjoy
I just poured in 1 qt of MMO in a Chevy 2.0L GTDI (LTG) that has 93k miles. I've done 3 oil changes on it already, each time using Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30.
Not sure why you think diluting a $12/qt, specially-formulated, proven, synthetic oil with a great track record with a $4/qt 80-year old formula oil additive that literally adds nothing to the oil you poured it in makes sense, but enjoy
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Originally Posted by metroplex
I just poured in 1 qt of MMO in a Chevy 2.0L GTDI (LTG) that has 93k miles. I've done 3 oil changes on it already, each time using Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30.
Not sure why you think diluting a $12/qt, specially-formulated, proven, synthetic oil with a great track record with a $4/qt 80-year old formula oil additive that literally adds nothing to the oil you poured it in makes sense, but enjoy
Maybe he likes his $12/qt Amsoil to smell more like wintergreen......just saying !🥴...³ðŸ¤£
Originally Posted by metroplex
I just poured in 1 qt of MMO in a Chevy 2.0L GTDI (LTG) that has 93k miles. I've done 3 oil changes on it already, each time using Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30.
Not sure why you think diluting a $12/qt, specially-formulated, proven, synthetic oil with a great track record with a $4/qt 80-year old formula oil additive that literally adds nothing to the oil you poured it in makes sense, but enjoy
Maybe he likes his $12/qt Amsoil to smell more like wintergreen......just saying !🥴...³ðŸ¤£
