Kreen Update
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Originally Posted By: steve20
Originally Posted By: biodiesel
I have a 1991 Honda Civic that has some serious oil consumption going on. It burns through a quart about every 800-1000 miles. I would like to give Kreen a try before opening her up and messing with a ring replacement.
How many quart cans would you guys suggest I order to do a thorough cleaning of the motor? What is the recommended dosage and how long do I leave it in the motor before dumping it? The motor is a 1.6L and takes about 3.8 qts total upon oil change.
do a compression test first--then put a vacuum gauge on it-those 2 old school procedures will tell you where to put your money-or keep it in your wallet
Well I am back to update my progress here after finally ordering two cans of Kreen and getting around to putting it in the motor this weekend.
The bad news first. I have been driving the Civic for the past year and haven't noticed any issues with the car at all. No hesitation on acceleration. No occasional stuttering while idling. Nothing but smooth revving and outstanding gas mileage. Typically around 38-40 mpg. So I took the advice from you two and decided to compression test the motor prior to the Kreen treatment. The spark plugs were murdered and long overdue for a change so it was nice to find that out as a byproduct of the compression test. Cylinders 1, 2, and 3 read a nice strong 200 each which I was pleased to see on a motor with 230k miles. Then I tested cylinder 4 and got a reading of only 40. I tested it five times to make sure.
Not much I can do about it I suppose, since I'm not going to dump any money in to a motor this old. So I figure as long as it keeps performing as well as it does and continues to put up great gas mileage numbers, then I will just drive it till she goes to sleep.
So I officially started the Kreen treatment as of yesterday. The motor calls for 5w30, so to offset the thinning I went with a cocktail of PYB 10w40 and PYB 5w30. 2 qts of the 40 and 1.5 of the 30 along with 12 oz. of the Kreen. I'm eager to see if the consumption tapers off a bit. I will continue to keep an eye on it from week to week and use more of the 10w40 as makeup oil.
I will be doing the piston soak one night this week.
The only question I have is when I hit 1000 miles can I just add 12 more ounces of the Kreen and keep on going or is it recommended the I dump the oil entirely and start over again?
Originally Posted By: biodiesel
I have a 1991 Honda Civic that has some serious oil consumption going on. It burns through a quart about every 800-1000 miles. I would like to give Kreen a try before opening her up and messing with a ring replacement.
How many quart cans would you guys suggest I order to do a thorough cleaning of the motor? What is the recommended dosage and how long do I leave it in the motor before dumping it? The motor is a 1.6L and takes about 3.8 qts total upon oil change.
do a compression test first--then put a vacuum gauge on it-those 2 old school procedures will tell you where to put your money-or keep it in your wallet
Well I am back to update my progress here after finally ordering two cans of Kreen and getting around to putting it in the motor this weekend.
The bad news first. I have been driving the Civic for the past year and haven't noticed any issues with the car at all. No hesitation on acceleration. No occasional stuttering while idling. Nothing but smooth revving and outstanding gas mileage. Typically around 38-40 mpg. So I took the advice from you two and decided to compression test the motor prior to the Kreen treatment. The spark plugs were murdered and long overdue for a change so it was nice to find that out as a byproduct of the compression test. Cylinders 1, 2, and 3 read a nice strong 200 each which I was pleased to see on a motor with 230k miles. Then I tested cylinder 4 and got a reading of only 40. I tested it five times to make sure.
Not much I can do about it I suppose, since I'm not going to dump any money in to a motor this old. So I figure as long as it keeps performing as well as it does and continues to put up great gas mileage numbers, then I will just drive it till she goes to sleep.
So I officially started the Kreen treatment as of yesterday. The motor calls for 5w30, so to offset the thinning I went with a cocktail of PYB 10w40 and PYB 5w30. 2 qts of the 40 and 1.5 of the 30 along with 12 oz. of the Kreen. I'm eager to see if the consumption tapers off a bit. I will continue to keep an eye on it from week to week and use more of the 10w40 as makeup oil.
I will be doing the piston soak one night this week.
The only question I have is when I hit 1000 miles can I just add 12 more ounces of the Kreen and keep on going or is it recommended the I dump the oil entirely and start over again?
JHZR2
Staff member
keep us posted!
I think Kanolabs say you can add kreen again, but I wouldn't. Wait till 3000 miles and repeat. Cut open filter, to make sure it is not overfilling with crud.
So, is this a HG for cylinder #4 biodiesel? OR worn out, etc?
When you do the piston soak do it at the 1K mark and use about 3oz per cyl then change then oil and add more Kreen.
Carbon will leach down in the oil and you want to get that stuff out.
Soak it over the weekend, the longer the better.
1oz per cyl does very little for the rings as it just soaks into the carbon on the piston head and very little actually finds its way into the rings.
Make sure to pull the ign and FI fuse and crank the engine with the plugs out before trying to start the engine.
Carbon will leach down in the oil and you want to get that stuff out.
Soak it over the weekend, the longer the better.
1oz per cyl does very little for the rings as it just soaks into the carbon on the piston head and very little actually finds its way into the rings.
Make sure to pull the ign and FI fuse and crank the engine with the plugs out before trying to start the engine.
Originally Posted By: Trav
When you do the piston soak do it at the 1K mark and use about 3oz per cyl then change then oil and add more Kreen.
Carbon will leach down in the oil and you want to get that stuff out.
Soak it over the weekend, the longer the better.
1oz per cyl does very little for the rings as it just soaks into the carbon on the piston head and very little actually finds its way into the rings.
Make sure to pull the ign and FI fuse and crank the engine with the plugs out before trying to start the engine.
Paul- is there any advantage to cranking the engine over via the damper pulley and adding more Kreen over the weekend soak? The few times I did it over the years we'd turn the engine over every 8-12 hours and top up the cylinder. Then crank it over with the starter before installing the plugs and running it.
When you do the piston soak do it at the 1K mark and use about 3oz per cyl then change then oil and add more Kreen.
Carbon will leach down in the oil and you want to get that stuff out.
Soak it over the weekend, the longer the better.
1oz per cyl does very little for the rings as it just soaks into the carbon on the piston head and very little actually finds its way into the rings.
Make sure to pull the ign and FI fuse and crank the engine with the plugs out before trying to start the engine.
Paul- is there any advantage to cranking the engine over via the damper pulley and adding more Kreen over the weekend soak? The few times I did it over the years we'd turn the engine over every 8-12 hours and top up the cylinder. Then crank it over with the starter before installing the plugs and running it.
Frank. If you have the time and patience you could soak the whole combustion chamber if you could get each piston at the top of its compression stroke and let it soak overnight.
This would be great for engines prone to carbon knock but for just cleaning the rings i don't think it really matters.
A thin boundary layer of carbon on the piston head isn't always a bad thing, it can help protect the piston from slight detonation, when the build up gets excessive thats when problems occur.
Some engines like those with hemispherical combustion chambers by nature of design are less prone to excessive carbon deposits and rarely need to be "de-carbonized".
This would be great for engines prone to carbon knock but for just cleaning the rings i don't think it really matters.
A thin boundary layer of carbon on the piston head isn't always a bad thing, it can help protect the piston from slight detonation, when the build up gets excessive thats when problems occur.
Some engines like those with hemispherical combustion chambers by nature of design are less prone to excessive carbon deposits and rarely need to be "de-carbonized".
Trying to learn something, is the issue with cylinder #4 in question because of worn/stuck control rings?
Hard to say without more information. It could be stuck rings, broken rings, a burned valve or seat. A head gasket would probably give more obvious symtoms.
A wet/dry compression test and leak down test would be a helpful start.
A wet/dry compression test and leak down test would be a helpful start.
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Trying to learn something, is the issue with cylinder #4 in question because of worn/stuck control rings?
Not too sure but Trav's guesses are as good as mine.
I think I'll pull the valve cover in the next week or two and see if I can spot anything. I just have to order a new gasket first.
Trying to learn something, is the issue with cylinder #4 in question because of worn/stuck control rings?
Not too sure but Trav's guesses are as good as mine.
I think I'll pull the valve cover in the next week or two and see if I can spot anything. I just have to order a new gasket first.
Originally Posted By: biodiesel
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Trying to learn something, is the issue with cylinder #4 in question because of worn/stuck control rings?
Not too sure but Trav's guesses are as good as mine.
I think I'll pull the valve cover in the next week or two and see if I can spot anything. I just have to order a new gasket first.
Let us know what it looks like inside the Valvetrain?
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Trying to learn something, is the issue with cylinder #4 in question because of worn/stuck control rings?
Not too sure but Trav's guesses are as good as mine.
I think I'll pull the valve cover in the next week or two and see if I can spot anything. I just have to order a new gasket first.
Let us know what it looks like inside the Valvetrain?
Got my first order of Kreen and did the cylinder soak a week ago. Should have pulled all the way out of the garage before starting the car in retrospect, but I started it up with the car in the garage, thought the garage door was open and tailpipe was pointed out of the garage, and then I pulled out and went for a drive, shutting the garage. When I came back 30 minutes later it was hazy in the garage. I tried airing it out overnight but its a week later and it still smells strongly of kreen in the garage, and am open to suggestions as to what might neutralize this smell. Thanks for any help
NEVER let your car idle in the garage. I did a few years ago with all the garage doors open, while working on one of my muscle cars. I got really sick and was laid up for a week. CMP is not fun....
Yes, the kreen smoke is extremely smelly and probably harmful to health. Should eventually dissipate with good ventilation.
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
NEVER let your car idle in the garage. I did a few years ago with all the garage doors open, while working on one of my muscle cars. I got really sick and was laid up for a week. CMP is not fun....
I agree, and I didn't. It was running in the garage for about one second before I backed out, just like we all do every day.
NEVER let your car idle in the garage. I did a few years ago with all the garage doors open, while working on one of my muscle cars. I got really sick and was laid up for a week. CMP is not fun....
I agree, and I didn't. It was running in the garage for about one second before I backed out, just like we all do every day.
One item that I forgot to mention, with my first 1K run of Kreen, was how clean the PCV valve and hose attached were after the Kreen treatment. They were spotless....like new!
The vapors from the run of 18 ounces of Kreen in the sump must have cleaned up more than just the crankcase and PCV system.
I don't know if there are any other areas to look for a noticeable difference in the before/after treatment with Kreen.
Now I wish I had added some to my gasoline, as suggested, since it most likely would have really cleaned up the throttle body during a long run.
Well, in my next run with Kreen, I'll make sure to add it to the gas tank instead of TC-W3 and the Chevron Techron mixture.
Any suggestions of when to add it to the gasoline on a long highway trip? Would it be better to add it to a full tank of gasoline at the start, middle or towards the end of a long trip?
On a 1K mile, high speed, highway trip I usually fill up 3x with a top off.
Any suggestions would be appreciated......
The vapors from the run of 18 ounces of Kreen in the sump must have cleaned up more than just the crankcase and PCV system.
I don't know if there are any other areas to look for a noticeable difference in the before/after treatment with Kreen.
Now I wish I had added some to my gasoline, as suggested, since it most likely would have really cleaned up the throttle body during a long run.
Well, in my next run with Kreen, I'll make sure to add it to the gas tank instead of TC-W3 and the Chevron Techron mixture.
Any suggestions of when to add it to the gasoline on a long highway trip? Would it be better to add it to a full tank of gasoline at the start, middle or towards the end of a long trip?
On a 1K mile, high speed, highway trip I usually fill up 3x with a top off.
Any suggestions would be appreciated......
Originally Posted By: mongo161
One item that I forgot to mention, with my first 1K run of Kreen, was how clean the PCV valve and hose attached were after the Kreen treatment. They were spotless....like new!
The vapors from the run of 18 ounces of Kreen in the sump must have cleaned up more than just the crankcase and PCV system.
I don't know if there are any other areas to look for a noticeable difference in the before/after treatment with Kreen.
Now I wish I had added some to my gasoline, as suggested, since it most likely would have really cleaned up the throttle body during a long run.
Well, in my next run with Kreen, I'll make sure to add it to the gas tank instead of TC-W3 and the Chevron Techron mixture.
Any suggestions of when to add it to the gasoline on a long highway trip? Would it be better to add it to a full tank of gasoline at the start, middle or towards the end of a long trip?
On a 1K mile, high speed, highway trip I usually fill up 3x with a top off.
Any suggestions would be appreciated......
IMO a cleaner like Kreen added to gas works best on shorter trips such as 20 miles or so. Just long enough for the engine to get up to operating temps then shut off so the chemical can sit in the injectors and work its magic. A long trip would be good for engine cleaning, the shorter trips IMO are better for cleaning injectors. This was confirmed by more than a few knowledgeable techs over the years. Opinions vary.
One item that I forgot to mention, with my first 1K run of Kreen, was how clean the PCV valve and hose attached were after the Kreen treatment. They were spotless....like new!
The vapors from the run of 18 ounces of Kreen in the sump must have cleaned up more than just the crankcase and PCV system.
I don't know if there are any other areas to look for a noticeable difference in the before/after treatment with Kreen.
Now I wish I had added some to my gasoline, as suggested, since it most likely would have really cleaned up the throttle body during a long run.
Well, in my next run with Kreen, I'll make sure to add it to the gas tank instead of TC-W3 and the Chevron Techron mixture.
Any suggestions of when to add it to the gasoline on a long highway trip? Would it be better to add it to a full tank of gasoline at the start, middle or towards the end of a long trip?
On a 1K mile, high speed, highway trip I usually fill up 3x with a top off.
Any suggestions would be appreciated......
IMO a cleaner like Kreen added to gas works best on shorter trips such as 20 miles or so. Just long enough for the engine to get up to operating temps then shut off so the chemical can sit in the injectors and work its magic. A long trip would be good for engine cleaning, the shorter trips IMO are better for cleaning injectors. This was confirmed by more than a few knowledgeable techs over the years. Opinions vary.
Originally Posted By: mongo161
Now I wish I had added some to my gasoline, as suggested, since it most likely would have really cleaned up the throttle body during a long run.
I don't think it would clean throttle body.
Now I wish I had added some to my gasoline, as suggested, since it most likely would have really cleaned up the throttle body during a long run.
I don't think it would clean throttle body.
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