Kohler SV470-620 Oil Spec

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Kohler states these recommendations for the Courage Single Cylender SV series engines:

svoilspec.png

With that in mind, I have a few questions;

Would it be wise to use Rotella T6 5w-40 or similar in this engine even though it's not a recommended viscosity?

Would it be wise to use a synthetic BLEND 10w30 (such as Rotella T5) even though the aforementioned recommendations do not specify differences in use of syn-blend compared to full-syn?

I know that using a full-synthetic 10w30 would likely be wise since that's what the manual says is OK, but I'm just trying to figure out if that's my only option.

I have so far (270hrs) been using either Kohler or Stens (seem to be the same) conventional 10w30 oil and have had good results. Everything under the valve cover was clean when I replaced the head gasket recently, but I think it would be wise to move over to a synthetic oil since syn is just plain better oil in the first place.

Temps during my mowing season are between 75f and 90f.

What do y'all think?
 
I use straight 30 in my small engine shop for almost everything that calls for a 30 weight. Of course, it is 80 plus degrees here almost year round, and that weight works great.

Syn 10W30 would be an excellent choice as well.
 
I'm with mount on this matter RE: the mower won't care.

Fact of the matter: you change your oil with brand name motor oil (conventional or syn doesn't really matter) religiously and monitor your oil level, keep your engine and carb in-tune,air filter replaced regularly, most likely your engine is going to outlast the rest of your chassis, etc.

I've been religiously maintaining my B&S and honda ope engines and have yet to wear out a single one due to oil-related issues.

syn oil only gives you extra bragging rights, IMO. I personally never see the need of syn oil on OPE engines.

Q.
 
OPE engines have been using conventional oil for lots of years and they hardly ever fail due to oil issues. Always chassis, carbs, or broken stuff. And most people don't change the oil that frequently. Only top off the oil. So I highly doubt your equipment will work longer, or notice any difference by running it on synthetic. But if it makes you feel better, go for it
 
Agree with what others have said. I've seen quite a few small engines outlast the rest of the mower - Briggs, Hondas etc...
I've got that engine on a 54" Hustler bought in 2005 - usually has synthetic in it, changed once a year. Right now has Wix filter &10W30 Supertech syn because that's what I had in the shop.
Wouldn't sweat this too much .
 
I have already shortblocked three Kohler Courage Singles this year! On all three, rod knock followed by throwing a rod. All had clean oil and crankcase. Cooling fins not blocked. Customers were using 10w30 per the manual. I strongly recommend a good 40w or 50w like Rotella, Delo, Mobil 1. I have one crew that was losing Kawasaki engines left and right until I had them switch to Mobil 15w-50.
 
Originally Posted By: Jasonenginetech
I have already shortblocked three Kohler Courage Singles this year! On all three, rod knock followed by throwing a rod. All had clean oil and crankcase. Cooling fins not blocked. Customers were using 10w30 per the manual. I strongly recommend a good 40w or 50w like Rotella, Delo, Mobil 1. I have one crew that was losing Kawasaki engines left and right until I had them switch to Mobil 15w-50.



I second this. Rotella T6 5w40 would be a perfect oil for this engine. Kohlers and other small engines tend to run hot, so a synthetic can benefit them. I've seen Kohler V-Twins with oil temps of 260* on a hot summer day. I use Rotella T6 5w40 or Rotella T 15w40 in all my equipment.
 
And that stopped the loss?

Originally Posted By: Jasonenginetech
I have already shortblocked three Kohler Courage Singles this year! On all three, rod knock followed by throwing a rod. All had clean oil and crankcase. Cooling fins not blocked. Customers were using 10w30 per the manual. I strongly recommend a good 40w or 50w like Rotella, Delo, Mobil 1. I have one crew that was losing Kawasaki engines left and right until I had them switch to Mobil 15w-50.
 
I run T6 in all OPE regardless of factory recommendation.

I know, I know. No reason to do it, straight 30 conventional is fine, etc. But a) its never cold here, just ranges between "cool" and "sweltering," b) it sure simplifies the oil I have to keep around, and c) its worked VERY well for me- several pieces of OPE I use are now 20+ years old and don't consume any oil. Opened a crankcase on one a few years back, and it was *spotless*.
 
Thanks for all the replies!

If I ever see any T6 on sale I'll pick up a gallon and run a few seasons on it and see what I think.

My specific engine is the 19hp version and I have been very pleased with it. Never burns a drop of oil. The reason I replaced the head gasket was a *very* small leak around the exhaust pushrod tube. It was causing a little staining but that's it.
 
While it is undoubtedly true that most lawn mowers don't see synthetics, there is no reason I know of not to think that synthetics would not bring about an increase in life expectancy just like they do in car engines. I would go with a full synthetic in the recommended viscosity per the manual.
 
Ive got the Kohler Courage 26hp on my Craftsman 50" ZTR mower. Ive used nothing but Amsoil's 10w30/ 30w 4stroke engine oil since new. I use the Wix filter. I get 2 years out of the oil, apox 150 hours in 2 years time, oil is still dark gold in color so I could maybe go longer but I wont. It does not burn a drop either, always full when I check it 'cold'.
 
I've never understood why air-cooled OPE engines aren't poster children for synthetic oil, what with high operating temperatures and stuff. And yes I know some people and some manuals say that increased consumption may be seen with synthetic, but I have also never seen a credible explanation why. I sure haven't seen it in my equipment, so what they mean by that is a mystery to me.

Originally Posted By: Jasper8146
While it is undoubtedly true that most lawn mowers don't see synthetics, there is no reason I know of not to think that synthetics would not bring about an increase in life expectancy just like they do in car engines. I would go with a full synthetic in the recommended viscosity per the manual.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
I've never understood why air-cooled OPE engines aren't poster children for synthetic oil, what with high operating temperatures and stuff. And yes I know some people and some manuals say that increased consumption may be seen with synthetic, but I have also never seen a credible explanation why. I sure haven't seen it in my equipment, so what they mean by that is a mystery to me.


I agree. Seems to me like they are the perfect application for synthetics. Surprised Kohler themselves dont sell a synthetic 10w30.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
And that stopped the loss?

Originally Posted By: Jasonenginetech
I have already shortblocked three Kohler Courage Singles this year! On all three, rod knock followed by throwing a rod. All had clean oil and crankcase. Cooling fins not blocked. Customers were using 10w30 per the manual. I strongly recommend a good 40w or 50w like Rotella, Delo, Mobil 1. I have one crew that was losing Kawasaki engines left and right until I had them switch to Mobil 15w-50.


Just had a Hustler come in with a v-twin Kawi, cylinder #2 head gasket leak. The oil had attracted dirt and debris completely packing the cooling fins under the cooling shroud - most of the time, in that scenario, the engine would have major damage from overheating. Performed a cylinder leakdown test, only 2% leakage on both cylinders - valves sealing and only slight leakage past the piston and rings. I asked the customer what oil he was using - Mobil 1 15w-50 on my recommendation two years ago when he bought the machine.

Now was it the higher viscosity, additive package, or base stocks... probably all three.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
I've never understood why air-cooled OPE engines aren't poster children for synthetic oil, what with high operating temperatures and stuff. And yes I know some people and some manuals say that increased consumption may be seen with synthetic, but I have also never seen a credible explanation why. I sure haven't seen it in my equipment, so what they mean by that is a mystery to me.

Originally Posted By: Jasper8146
While it is undoubtedly true that most lawn mowers don't see synthetics, there is no reason I know of not to think that synthetics would not bring about an increase in life expectancy just like they do in car engines. I would go with a full synthetic in the recommended viscosity per the manual.


I have seen no negatives with running a synthetic. IMO - OPE is a great test bed for slightly scientific analysis. Briggs and Stratton engines in high load situations have a grey soup oil change and oil consumption with thin 30 weights. Had a customer that was sick of having to replace engines and constantly check the oil in a Billy Goat Vac - I asked what oil he was using in his diesel truck - 15w40 Delo. He started using the Delo, the grey oil soup is gone and oil consumption is much less. I have seen this over and over again.

I see oil loss in the thinner viscosity ranges in OPE. Three years ago I switched from Chevron 10w30 to Kohler 10w30 due excessive oil consumption on customers machines. Solved the consumption problem. Now I am trying Idemitsu's Honda 10w30 bulk oil for non-commercial customer's but I am afraid the oil consumption is back. I am strongly considering a high HT/HS 30w when I have finished off the Honda oil. I want to try Rotella's 10w30.

I had a previous thread where I mentioned Kohler engines offering and recommending 20w-50 if the outside temp is over 32 F.
 
Originally Posted By: Jasonenginetech
Originally Posted By: kschachn
I've never understood why air-cooled OPE engines aren't poster children for synthetic oil, what with high operating temperatures and stuff. And yes I know some people and some manuals say that increased consumption may be seen with synthetic, but I have also never seen a credible explanation why. I sure haven't seen it in my equipment, so what they mean by that is a mystery to me.

Originally Posted By: Jasper8146
While it is undoubtedly true that most lawn mowers don't see synthetics, there is no reason I know of not to think that synthetics would not bring about an increase in life expectancy just like they do in car engines. I would go with a full synthetic in the recommended viscosity per the manual.


I have seen no negatives with running a synthetic. IMO - OPE is a great test bed for slightly scientific analysis. Briggs and Stratton engines in high load situations have a grey soup oil change and oil consumption with thin 30 weights. Had a customer that was sick of having to replace engines and constantly check the oil in a Billy Goat Vac - I asked what oil he was using in his diesel truck - 15w40 Delo. He started using the Delo, the grey oil soup is gone and oil consumption is much less. I have seen this over and over again.

I see oil loss in the thinner viscosity ranges in OPE. Three years ago I switched from Chevron 10w30 to Kohler 10w30 due excessive oil consumption on customers machines. Solved the consumption problem. Now I am trying Idemitsu's Honda 10w30 bulk oil for non-commercial customer's but I am afraid the oil consumption is back. I am strongly considering a high HT/HS 30w when I have finished off the Honda oil. I want to try Rotella's 10w30.

I had a previous thread where I mentioned Kohler engines offering and recommending 20w-50 if the outside temp is over 32 F.


20w-50 Would seem awfully heavy but it might work, who knows. I think I'm gonna try T6 5w-40 in my Courage and see how it does. Just started the season with Stens 10w30 so it'll probobly be a while before I change it.
 
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