Kohler KT735 coils going bad after only 40 hours

Joined
Jul 29, 2018
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16
Location
MN
Not new to small engines but new to Kohler - I have a 3 year old Cub Cadet XT1 with the Kohler KT735 engine. It started to miss fire heavily and was essentially running on one cylinder for about 60% of the time. Checked the plugs which looked good, took the shroud off to check for plugged cooling fins and to see if rodents had chewed any wires. All looked good so I pulled the carb even though that didn't make sense as only one cylinder was affected, carb was pretty clean. Decided it must be one of the coils so I bought two cheap coils and replaced them both. Runs fine again. My question is the key was left on when cough my wife cough mowed and ran out of gas and killed the battery. I know back in the dark ages they used to tell me leaving the key on could burn the points, can doing so also burn out the coil?
 
The coils hadn't moved away from the flywheel had they? That would cause erratic spark as well.

I always heard the same thing as you growing up, no idea if it would have an effect on small engine ignition systems or not. I know they don't use points these days, I wonder if there is some other weak link.
 
No personal experience with my Kohler powered stuff, but I've heard that newer Kohlers have a reputation for coils often going bad. I wouldn't blame it on the wife... even if it WAS her fault. ;)
 
Leaving the key on won't hurt the coils. That might only occur with the old ignition systems having points. There's no battery power going through the coils on the newer "magneto" coils.. Usually the only connection to them is to the ignition switch which is grounded ( kill switch) when the key is turned off. During operation, that wire is open via the ignition switch.

I have struggled recently with cheap, Chinese made coils off Ebay and Amazon. I would strongly suggest getting OEM coils.
 
Yes the ignition system is inside the coil unit. It is self-powered by the spinning flywheel magnet and does not involve the battery.
The battery runs down if the key is left on because of the fuel cut-off solenoid on the carb.
 
Thanks for the replies guys, I see now there is no battery power going through the coils so leaving the key on has no bearing. Lubener I agree - I should have bought OEM but I figured since the OEM coil only lasted 40 hours I didn't have much to loose by buying cheap knock offs.
 
I have had multiple coil failures with Kohler and Kawasaki. Didn’t make difference between genuine or aftermarket, they fail frequently. I think they are made cheaply now.
 
Thanks for the replies guys, I see now there is no battery power going through the coils so leaving the key on has no bearing. Lubener I agree - I should have bought OEM but I figured since the OEM coil only lasted 40 hours I didn't have much to loose by buying cheap knock offs.
I only buy OEM, because as bad as the OEM coils are, the aftermarkets can be way worse. I've had customers that had aftermarket coils last about 2 hours of mowing before they failed.
 
I have had multiple coil failures with Kohler and Kawasaki. Didn’t make difference between genuine or aftermarket, they fail frequently. I think they are made cheaply now.
Concur on the kawi - neighbor’s was plagued with it. 3rd party was worse than oem. Stick with oem. No experience with Kohler.
 
I'm currently having spark problems on my old JDF510 with the OE coil (1999) and Kawasaki 17hp. Sometimes no spark when cold, Going to ohm it now as it is not starting.

Yep 11.28Kohms. :(
 
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