Kohler ECV980 EFI Air Cooled V-Twin Oil Choice - My plan below. Is there a better choice?

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Apr 30, 2005
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Midwest
I have a 60 inch Exmark Zero Turn Mower with a Kohler ECV 980 EFI Air Cooled V-Twin. (999cc, 38 HP, 2.1 quart service fill with filter). I plan to change oil each 50 hours or 1 year which ever comes first. Kohler manual recommend 100 hour OCI with SN rated oils of the following SAE viscosities based on the outside air temperatures the unit is being operated in
above 32 F - 20W-50
above 0 F - 10W-30
above 50 F - 30 W
Below 32 F - 5W-30

My operating temperature range is from 25F to 100F with most time spent operating from 35 to 85 F.
I plan to use HDEO with API CK-4 (no dual rated oils with SN rating) with my first choice being 15W-40 with possible 5W-40 being considered to reduce battery /starter load and to get oil flowing quicker during the colder times. I believe the engine has hydraulic lifters. The mower is usually used one time per week from April thru November. I expect around 40 hours per year use.

Interested in your thoughts on the best oil choice for my equipment and use.
Leaning toward 15W-40 CK-4 Rotella T5 or Mobil Delvac

Thanks
Slick
 
I Have a bunch of Lazer's with Kohler and Kawi engines. I use Schaeffer's 15-40 7K with great results
Remember to let it idle for 5 min. to cool down after use and it will last forever.
 
It'll probably be fine using 15w40 considering the manual for that engine shows that SAE30 covers from 50F to 100F.

38 horsepower and EFI on a lawn mower engine. Seems excessive but hey.
 
The Rotella T5 15W40 will be a good choice. 20W50 is another. Here’s the recommendation right out of the Kohler service manual.
 

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I Have a bunch of Lazer's with Kohler and Kawi engines. I use Schaeffer's 15-40 7K with great results
Remember to let it idle for 5 min. to cool down after use and it will last forever.
I was under ilthe impression that air-cooled 4 cycles ran hotter when idled after use vs full speed, due to the fan moving less air at idle.
 
Leaning toward 15W-40 CK-4 Rotella T5 or Mobil Delvac
Rotella RT6 15w-40 synthetic. There's very little price difference between that and the RT5 in the grand scheme of things. At my local Walmart the difference is about four bucks per gallon, or two bucks per year for your application.
 
SAE pick one. Change it every now and then and make sure it is always at the full mark and you could probably get by with 0w20.

Nobody uses a zero turn colder than needing anything less that straight 30. If it is chilly let it warm up a bit. (And yes I know some people can and do. My point is don’t be dumb about it.)
 
Thanks for the input. More 10W-30 suggestions than I expected. I do use Rotella T 10W-30 on my smaller single cylinder so it is always available.

Thanks

Slick
 
SAE pick one. Change it every now and then and make sure it is always at the full mark and you could probably get by with 0w20.

Nobody uses a zero turn colder than needing anything less that straight 30. If it is chilly let it warm up a bit. (And yes I know some people can and do. My point is don’t be dumb about it.)
My under 40 F starts are from leaf cleanups in the late fall and re-positing the mower in my unheated garage and shed. No fun using a mower with heavy coat, gloves, and winter cap
 
It'll probably be fine using 15w40 considering the manual for that engine shows that SAE30 covers from 50F to 100F.

38 horsepower and EFI on a lawn mower engine. Seems excessive but hey.
Agree 38 HP is overkill. My 42 inch Cub Cadet Rider had Kohler M18 and did ok. Have used 52 inch Commercial Mowers with 23H?P carbed Kawasaki that used all HP in the spring with heavy growth. Interesting is at 4 hours use the 38 HP EFI seems to be at about 1 GPH which is similar to the M18 and 23 HP when mowing heavy spring growth. The 38 HP could mow faster ground speeds but usually the limiting factor for me is how rough the yard is.
 
Rotella RT6 15w-40 synthetic. There's very little price difference between that and the RT5 in the grand scheme of things. At my local Walmart the difference is about four bucks per gallon, or two bucks per year for your application.
Good point. Now with Rotella T6 available in 15W-40 (used to only have T5 15W-40 at local stores) and my likely one change per year @ 2.1 quarts it is not much cost add to use T6.
 
I was under ilthe impression that air-cooled 4 cycles ran hotter when idled after use vs full speed, due to the fan moving less air at idle.
They do, letting it idle after using it will cause operating temp to rise. There is literally no reason to do this, unlike a turbocharged liquid cooled engine.

OP:

As far as oil, any synthetic 10w30 or HDEO like a 15w40 or 5w40 will work very well, especially if changed on a yearly basis.
 
Thats a lot of power, my Ferris 61" only has 28HP.
Exmark is a great machine, I've always ran 0-40 in my Ferris.
There is probably a car oil filter that will fit your engine
 
If that engine has hydraulic lifters, then I'd definitely use a multi grade synthetic oil. The temperature ranges per owner's manual are very specific. I use M1 10w30 High Mileage / Rotella T6 10w30 oil in son in law's 2002 Simplicity Broadmoor rider mower with 16 hp B&S Intek Twin. It now has 600 hrs & still runs great - 100 hrs yearly mowing with little oil consumption. Where do you live? Sounds like 10w30 / 15w40 / 15w50 synthetic will work.
 
Air cooled - means keep cooling fins clear! A lot of folks never take the time to remove engine covers and clean engine cooling fins. Keep air filter clean!
 
I have a Snapper pro 61" cut with a 31hp Kawasaki. I use Mobil 15W50.
Air cool engines run really hot. My oil temp is 260F + when working hard.
About 5 years ago Kawasaki specify 15W50 for air temperatures of -5F to 110F
Idling actually lower engine & oil temp. Burning alot of fuel at high RPM with
heavy load is what products high oil/engine temperatures. Idling with no load
will drop temps significantly.
 
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