Why do you do it (assuming you don't live in the arctic)?
1.) Price?
2.) Change oil at a lower interval and don't need syn?
3.) Drive an average car (like some boring sedan) that you will not keep for more than 5 yrs or so?
4.) Like to experiment & test different oils & dino gives me that opportunity sooner due to OCI
5.) ALL OF THE ABOVE
6.) NONE OF THE ABOVE
I noticed that on my "special" vehicle that I plan to keep for 20 years, I have always paid for M1 or now M1 HM because I want that motor in perfect shape.
But on my DD stocker avg vehicle I just use dino or cheap syn-blend because it is "good enough" and would still carry the motor through 200k easy if changed at 5k or less.
I am trying to figure out why I'd switch my non-DD to dino over M1 of if I am doing the same thing many of you do. So far the only evidence I found is that a lot of the Marine OEM's insist on dino in the lower units & in the crank cases because it protects against corrosion better in storage.
Gentlemen...discusss
1.) Price?
2.) Change oil at a lower interval and don't need syn?
3.) Drive an average car (like some boring sedan) that you will not keep for more than 5 yrs or so?
4.) Like to experiment & test different oils & dino gives me that opportunity sooner due to OCI
5.) ALL OF THE ABOVE
6.) NONE OF THE ABOVE
I noticed that on my "special" vehicle that I plan to keep for 20 years, I have always paid for M1 or now M1 HM because I want that motor in perfect shape.
But on my DD stocker avg vehicle I just use dino or cheap syn-blend because it is "good enough" and would still carry the motor through 200k easy if changed at 5k or less.
I am trying to figure out why I'd switch my non-DD to dino over M1 of if I am doing the same thing many of you do. So far the only evidence I found is that a lot of the Marine OEM's insist on dino in the lower units & in the crank cases because it protects against corrosion better in storage.
Gentlemen...discusss
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