"know what type of engine you are getting into" Whiteface Ford

[GON]

Big fan of the videos from Whiteface Ford.

This short Whiteface Ford video discusses the risks of buying vehicles with certain engines. certain engines. The Whiteface owner stated, " it will take $3-5k USD" to replace a belt on this engine, not so many years ago all one needed was a screwdriver".

A theme for this video goes deeper. The owner of Whiteface recommended to do detailed research before buying a used vehicle, one could get stuck with a $5k USD bill shortly after purchase. As a person who desires to keep vehicles a very long time, I think the same research should be done on new vehicles.

 

[Jetronic]

Yes, it's what I did before committing the the MG I bought. I knew it was a license built copy of a GM ecotec 1.5 t-gdi. It's not perfect, but the chinese built copy does away with some of the problems the US versions have. I was particularly worried because of the 1.4t that came before.

And critically, none of the competitor engines are any better if not worse. I also looked up the replacement cost, and ordered from alibaba or similar sites I can have a brand new engine for $1k or less, even if that cost doubles before it's at my doorstep it's still good value.

 

[SC Maintenance]

" it will take $3-5k USD" to replace a belt on this engine, not so many years ago all one needed was a screwdriver".

I can't ever recall an engine which you could replace a timing belt with a flathead screwdriver".

Wet belts I think have come and gone and everyone agrees were a bad idea to begin with. Good riddance.

 

[GON]

I can't ever recall an engine which you could replace a timing belt with a flathead screwdriver".

Wet belts I think have come and gone and everyone agrees were a bad idea to begin with. Good riddance.

I believe the belt being discussed in the video is a oil pump belt. Video discusses the belt needs to be replaced every 100k miles, and costs $3-5k to replace. Replacement of the belt may require removal if the sub frame, removal if the engine, etc.

The engine in the video has the belt break up, preventing proper oil pressure, resulting in engine failure.

 

[SC Maintenance]

I believe the belt being discussed in the video is a oil pump belt. Video discusses the belt needs to be replaced every 100k miles, and costs $3-5k to replace. Replacement of the belt may require removal if the sub frame, removal if the engine, etc.

The engine in the video has the belt break up, preventing proper oil pressure, resulting in engine failure.

The oil pump belt is behind the timing belt, and both are wet belts. The picture below is the intact oil pump belt behind the bottom timing belt pulley - that belt removed.

I believe the video indicates that wet belts shedding rubber clogged the oil pump, which I believe is a common failure mode for these.

The timing bet itself doesn't appear to be too hard to change, except you have to take the engine out to do it.

 

[OneLonelyBurrito]

Wasn't the belt tensioner the problem and not the belt itself on the Ford 1.0L? Like the tensioner was failing and that caused the belts to shred.

I have a feeling most of the belt-in-oil designs will last longer then most will give them credit for especially when its just driving the oil pump.

 

[Hirev]

Wet belts I think have come and gone and everyone agrees were a bad idea to begin with. Good riddance.

I've seen on some youtubes Ford is still using wet oil pump belt on some engines. For example the 2.7 EB is wet belt and the odd thing is on their 5.0 V8 in the F150 gets a wet oil pump belt where the same 5.0 V8 in the mustang does not use a wet oil pump belt.

 

[Jetronic]

I can't ever recall an engine which you could replace a timing belt with a flathead screwdriver".

Wet belts I think have come and gone and everyone agrees were a bad idea to begin with. Good riddance.

They're not gone yet. Ford is using chains now for the timing belt, but the oil pump drive can still be a belt.

 

[Jetronic]

Wasn't the belt tensioner the problem and not the belt itself on the Ford 1.0L? Like the tensioner was failing and that caused the belts to shred.

I have a feeling most of the belt-in-oil designs will last longer then most will give them credit for especially when its just driving the oil pump.

We had a recall for hyundai engines using an oil pump drive belt. Every one of them had stripped teeth.

 

[dfarr67]

You can lay these repair issues at the feet of the manufacturers- they know better but they don't care.

 

[Jetronic]

You can lay these repair issues at the feet of the manufacturers- they know better but they don't care.

Or do your homework, like said in the opening post.

It might not be an issue if you only keep your car until the next facelift or new model comes out.

 

[JunkdrawerDog]

Absolutely. It's why I own the car that I do. Four cylinders. No turbo. Port fuel injection. Beefy timing chain. Sure, it leaves a lot of performance on the table but hopefully will present few problems during the course of ownership. Engine is Honda K20.

 

[supton]

I can't ever recall an engine which you could replace a timing belt with a flathead screwdriver".

Didn't watch the video but I wonder if it's just hyperbole. I mean, some engines have an all-day job to do change the TB, others it's a couple hours. Complex vs simple.

Or maybe he was thinking of this?

 

[D60]

Actually just went through this myself shopping for the wife's replacement truck. We were looking approximately '14-22 and a budget of about $30k

Most important to keep in mind is that I wanted something with the greatest odds of not having to do anything beyond routine maintenance. I also appreciate the GMT800 era of rolling well past 200k miles with virtually no work needed. But of course GMT800s are too old these days -- truly clean examples are gone.

The wife absolutely refuses to drive a Chevy for reasons that are 100% nonsensical. She doesn't relate the same hate to GMC but I didn't really feel like dealing with AFM

Dodge, I was worried about the Hemi tick and we didn't want a fullsize truck with the Pentastar. Already have a Pentastar in our JL and one overrated motor is enough. @OVERKILL 's real world experience had me thinking the odds of a Hemi problem nearing 200k were not insignificant, and I simply don't have time for head work on our own vehicles if I can avoid it.

I'm usually a Ford guy but sorry, I just didn't want turbos, problematic phasers, or wet belts. This ruled out the 3.5 and 2.7. Yes, yes, I know Ecoboost bois are screaming that all the problems have been fixed. Sure they have. The Coyote was a consideration but not once did one present itself in our search.

This left Tundras. No magic turbos or wet belts. Yeah, you sometimes get the weird LH chain tick on cold start, but it doesn't seem to affect longevity (ours does not exhibit this BTW). Head gaskets might be a concern over 200k but even that is a very low rate of occurrence.

Honestly, the overall lack of whiz-bang attempts at magic or technology thru 2021 on the Tundras is both impressive and astonishing when contrasted with what other manufacturers were trying to do during the same time to either make a bigger engine act like a smaller one (AFM) or a smaller engine act like a bigger one (turbos).

Furthermore, the AB60F seems solid.

Finally, I'd be remiss if I didn't mention how incredibly well turbos went for Toyota in 2022 in the Tundra. I'll take a basic V8, thanks.

 

[oilboy123]

I'm usually a Ford guy but sorry, I just didn't want turbos, problematic phasers, or wet belts. This ruled out the 3.5 and 2.7. Yes, yes, I know Ecoboost bois are screaming that all the problems have been fixed. Sure they have. The Coyote was a consideration but not once did one present itself in our search.

Yes I was a little gun shy on the F150 engines. I got the wimpy 3.7 NA engine. Comes with the XL F150. Still has phasers though.