Key confusion apres Passlock/fuel system fix

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faramir9

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So, I just had the ignition switch and ignition lock cylinder replaced on my '04 Chevy Classic. (fleet version 5th-gen Malibu) The latest battle in the well-known war with the fuel/ignition system, that starts with a faulty Passlock security system and rolls downhill from there.

I could write a novel about that saga---been a good car otherwise, but that's like saying if I weren't so fat I would be thin---but for now a practical question.

New ignition keys came with the new lock cylinder. They only work in the ignition, though; I had to keep the old keys to lock the doors. I have a remote keyless fob, which I use much of the time, but I need a door key just in case the remote conks out---with the doors locked.

The old 'door' keys and new ignition keys look alike. Not only that, but as anyone who suffered through a GM Passlock quagmire knows, if you put the wrong key in the ignition the system will freeze you out for 10 minutes. (Or more; plus that's the starting point of the quagmire.) So, it's important that A. I carry both a door key and an ignition key with me; and B. Keep them clearly marked and separated.

Any good ideas on this? There are zillions of GM Passlock victims out there, but this is one issue I have not seen discussed in the many articles and threads I have read.

Maybe paint one of them a different color?
 
I would either paint, notch, or somehow otherwise mark the head of the *door* key since you don't need to to worry about messing that key up as far as the PassLock thing goes.
 
I have "door" keys to all my cars. I go by the local locksmith and have him make me up a key specifically for this purpose.
The keys will not start the car, as they don't have the special chip, but they will let me get into the car.

Attention Deficit Disorder (ADD) steals my car keys regularly. I think part of the problem is being stressed out from searching for a job and my mind is always somewhere else, but I find myself locking myself out of a car at least once a month now.
In the previous 16 years I have been driving I have locked myself out only 2x.
When I started to do it regularly I knew I needed to carry a 2nd set of keys in my other pocket.
 
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Any way to wire a resistor into the ignition so the Passlock is disabled, or is this a fancier system than that?
 
1) After market remote start systems have a box that works on the Passlock system on GM vehicles so the electronics think that the proper key is being used. There may be resistors that you have to chose for this box to get the correct resistance for your vehicle. If you install an after market remote start,or just the bypass box for Passlock you will never have Passlock act up again. Fixing it with new parts so as to keep it original will work for some time but it can go bad again.

2) You can get a low cost key cut at a hardware store without the electronics, and then remove the peaks on one side of the key, so the key will only open the doors and then only if you insert it with the remaining peaks oriented properly. Some hardware stores will remove the peaks on one side if you ask them to. I hide a key like this outside of the vehicle. If someone finds it they can not work the ignition.
 
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Your new ignition lock cylinder tumblers could and should've been keyed to your original key. Do you still have the original lock cylinder?
 
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Your new ignition lock cylinder tumblers could and should've been keyed to your original key. Do you still have the original lock cylinder?


That's what I thought---but the cylinder came with new keys and a new Passlock chip. The guys at the shop told me I needed to keep the original keys to open the doors.

As long as the darn thing starts forevermore I am satisfied. I am new to this forum, but I assume the GM Passlock/fuel pump/electronics/ignition mess has been detailed here. Boggles my mind there was never a recall or class action suit.

As I said I could ramble on for thousands of words on this---let's just say that despite being a bit of a "Chevy guy" at heart and despite the fact the car has run well apart from this issue....it is so frustrating I have gone from "lean-GM" to "GM as last resort" for my next ride.

Thanks for the advice.
 
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Any way to wire a resistor into the ignition so the Passlock is disabled, or is this a fancier system than that?


There is a way to cut a wire and bypass the Passlock system, but then the anti-theft light stays on all the time. http://is.gd/CSCCbF Plus it does not necessarily solve the electronics/fuel system issue that seems to get triggered by a faulty Passlock. It's like a snowball.

There is tons of info about this online, but never a recall. Go figure. I am pretty sure you are safe with your Cruze. It is supposedly fixed years ago....we shall see.
 
You can defeat Passlock with a resistor without having the security light on.

Also, you can get your new ignition cylinder repinned so that it works on your old key.

There are so many solutions to this problem that it's not worth getting worked up about.
 
Originally Posted By: Stu_Rock
You can defeat Passlock with a resistor without having the security light on.

Also, you can get your new ignition cylinder repinned so that it works on your old key.

There are so many solutions to this problem that it's not worth getting worked up about.


The key issue does not get me worked up; it's just a bit of a nuisance. The long saga since the day the Passlock light first flashed till now is another story....

So, pardon my ignorance, but how would I get the new ignition cylinder re-pinned to the original keys? Thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: faramir9
Originally Posted By: Stu_Rock
You can defeat Passlock with a resistor without having the security light on.

Also, you can get your new ignition cylinder repinned so that it works on your old key.

There are so many solutions to this problem that it's not worth getting worked up about.


The key issue does not get me worked up; it's just a bit of a nuisance. The long saga since the day the Passlock light first flashed till now is another story....

So, pardon my ignorance, but how would I get the new ignition cylinder re-pinned to the original keys? Thanks.


Pull out teh cylinder and take it to a locksmith. They should be able to repin it to whatever key you supply.

With the older Ford 10 cut keys there were 5 different replacement ignition lock cylinders. You measure the depth of one of the cuts on the original key, and then trace certain cuts off the old key onto the new ones provided with the cylinder. The ignition and door locks each used certain cuts on the key and shared one.

The newer 8 cut cylinders come in a bag that you have to assemble with the original key.
 
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Any way to wire a resistor into the ignition so the Passlock is disabled, or is this a fancier system than that?


That is what I did on my mom's 2004 Chevy Classic. 2.2k resistor across the small-gauge black and yellow wires from the ignition switch, turn the key to on, let it sit for 10 minutes till the theft light stops flashing, done.

Instructions here:

http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/index.shtml
 
Passlock only activates when you turn the key to start...so if the old keys don't work in the ignition - your problem that you are concerned about doesn't exist.
 
Passlock is not passkey. They sound similar but passlock is more ghetto and is used on less stolen cars.

As I understand it passlock simply needs to see the ignition cylinder turn, with internal sensors, before the car is allowed to start. This works more or less normally with any cheapo key you can put in and get to turn. This does not work with hotwiring or remote starters without addional modules.

Passkey started with resistor chips in the key that you can plainly see and may have moved onto transponders and other cool gizmos. I had passkey on a 2000 buick century, ohmed out my only key, ordered an appropriate blank on ebay for $7, and had a friendly hardware store cut it. Way cheaper than 60 bux at the dealer.

The cheapest solution is to have walmart copy your door key on a plain aluminum blank, it will look nothing like your factory ignition key. Or as said above smash the plastic off the door key.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Passlock is not passkey. They sound similar but passlock is more ghetto and is used on less stolen cars.

The cheapest solution is to have walmart copy your door key on a plain aluminum blank, it will look nothing like your factory ignition key. Or as said above smash the plastic off the door key.


Thanks for all the advice. I think I might try this last suggestion. As noted, Passlock was just the start of my issues with the ignition/fuel delivery system. It did not help that my regular mechanic knew less about the problem than I did; another mind-boggler, as this issue is all over the 'Web.

If I have a day free this weekend I might bore you all with the saga. A quick search here did not turn up much on Passlock/fuel/ignition issues, but I will sniff around before I post again.

Thanks again for the suggestions.
 
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Passlock only activates when you turn the key to start...so if the old keys don't work in the ignition - your problem that you are concerned about doesn't exist.


There ya go, but if I were having any lock repinned it'd probably be the door, so I'd have new keys that operated both...
 
Next issue on the agenda: Since the new lock cylinder was installed, the door chime dings whenever I open the driver's door to get in or out. The sensor thinks the key is still in the ignition, even though it's not, IOW. Never had this trouble before; it started as soon as the new ignition was installed last week.

It's quite annoying....will discuss it tomorrow with the guys at the shop that installed the lock cylinder and the ignition switch.

What do you think I should ask them to do? I fear to have them mess with wiring lest something worse go wrong. Maybe I will see if they can remove, inspect, then replace the cylinder. Can't hurt to try, I guess.

FYI, since this problem started, I have replaced the battery, the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, fuel filter, upstream O2 sensor, ignition switch, ignition lock cylinder and Passlock sensor. With this last batch of work, it's now over a grand gone---and that with shopping hard for parts and labor.

I am starting to think I should have replaced the lock cylinder myself, rather than take it to my regular shop. I am no mechanic, by the standards of this forum, but I reckon I could have done as well as the shop guys did....since the darn door chime keeps beeping at me.

Maybe it's not too late for a recall. Worst thing is the darn car runs fine otherwise.

Anyone know of a fuse to pull that kills the door chime without messing with anything else? Thanks.
 
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