Kerosine for Storage

[itguy08]

I was thinking this week (always a bad thing) about OPE storage and the wet vs dry argument....

Has anyone given thought to using kerosene for storage? Since it's a heavier oil than gasoline, it would coat the carb and since it doesn't absorb water like gas would keep the carb oxidation free.

My thought would be along the line of:

Run the tank out or almost out.
Put in about 1/4-1/2 tank of kerosene
Run the equipment till it stalls
Store

To start it in the spring, fill with fresh gas and use carb cleaner to get it going and let it run the kerosene out.

Make sense or crazy?

 

[GreeCguy]

Marvel Mystery Oil works great. As far as kerosene is concerned, I would be afraid it would foul the plug and starting with either carb cleaner or starting fluid after sitting so long would wash oil from the cylinder walls producing a dry start after a long storage.

 

[Donald]

I would not go with kerosene. But how about some 2 cycle premix. Run the engine until its out of gas, pour in 1/2 cup of premix and again run it until its out of gas. Fuel bowl should be filled. Maybe pull the starter handle a few times with spark plug wire off.

 

[fdcg27]

I'd avoid the kero simply because running the engine with any amount of it in the fuel will bring detonation. It simply kills octane.
How do I know?
Well, years ago I had to drain a gallon or so of diesel out of one of our old 123 diesels to replace a leaking fuel line that came out of the bottom of the tank. I'd run the tank as low as I dared and since leaking diesel is not nearly the hazard that leaking gasoline is I just drove the car normally until I knew that it was really low on fuel.
It seemed a shame to throw the fuel away and I didn't want to put it back in the car, so I hit upon the bright idea of mixing it into the fuel I used for the mowers.
Holy detonation, Batman!
The mower through which I ran this fuel decided it was a diesel as well, and would run on with no ignition from the plug.
So, I'd avoid any amount of kerosene in your gas engines.

 

[morepwr]

Originally Posted By: Donald
I would not go with kerosene. But how about some 2 cycle premix. Run the engine until its out of gas, pour in 1/2 cup of premix and again run it until its out of gas. Fuel bowl should be filled. Maybe pull the starter handle a few times with spark plug wire off.


2 cycle oil works great! I have used it on small engines and motorcycles when being put in storage and it leaves a nice coat of oil to protect from corrosion once the gas has evaporated and keeps the carb from gumming up.

 

[JHZR2]

2 cycle gets my pick. A few years ago we ran out of rug during the last now of the season, so I used the 2T fuel from the weed wacker and it ran perfect.
You could also get aerosol fogged, spray in the carb, then remove uh and spray some in there.

 

[itguy08]

Thanks for the tips. I do like the 2 stroke mix idea. I ran the lawnmower on 100:1 (1 gallon 50:1 mixed with 1 gal of gas) for 3/4 of the season this year as I was needing to get rid of junk 2 cycle mix. It didn't seem to mind it at all so that's a good thought.

I also like the MMO idea too - My normal cocktail for OPE is Sta-Bil + MMO so maybe an extra shot of it for storage would be a good thing.

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: itguy08

To start it in the spring, fill with fresh gas and use carb cleaner to get it going and let it run the kerosene out.

Make sense or crazy?


Kerosene would work well as a preservative but you'll probably never keep it running well enough to burn out the springtime mix... If the carb has a fuel bowl that would allow draining the 'sene and then refill with petrol, I could see that...

Any thought of dry start is a non issue, just spin it over a couple times with the plug wire grounded and it's pre lubed... Also a quick tilt to approx a 45* angle with cylinder down would do same...

I start a Tecumseh lawn vac on ether every time it's run and have for four or five years, it doesn't complain... Knows if it does I'll sell it for scrap(yes I've told it so)...

 

[Cujet]

Don't forget that Kero goes bad over time. People often think it does not ever go bad, but that's not the case.

I'd suggest C9 gas from VP Fuels, or 100LL Avgas as storage fuels. Both are reasonably inexpensive and will do the job perfectly.

 

[JR]

Coleman fuel. i know some amish and they use coleman fuel because it is good longterm.

Ken

 

[boraticus]

Originally Posted By: Cujet
Don't forget that Kero goes bad over time. People often think it does not ever go bad, but that's not the case.

I'd suggest C9 gas from VP Fuels, or 100LL Avgas as storage fuels. Both are reasonably inexpensive and will do the job perfectly.



I was cleaning up the garage at camp a few weeks ago and found a nine liter jug of kerosene that had sat half full and tightly sealed for probably 25 years or more. We had it for a kerosene heater that we'd use along with the wood stove to warm up the camp quicker in the winter. We stopped using the heater so long ago, I can't remember.

The kerosene was in a clear container and showed no signs of deterioration. It was still crystal clear and when I opened the container, it smelled just like regular kerosene. Not having any immediate use for it, I dumped it into the almost full 15 gallon fuel tank for the diesel generator. I have read that under certain conditions, organisms can actually grow in diesel fuel and kerosene. However, I'd suspect the conditions need to be right for that to happen. Can't explain why the kerosene was in such good condition. Probably due to our cold winters and clean/sealed storage conditions.

Regarding filling the carb with kerosene (or anything else for that matter) for off season storage. I couldn't be bothered. I'm a "run the carb dry" guy. It's been working for me in many, many engines for many, many years. No problems either. I do have a couple machines that don't have fuel valves that I leave over winter with the carbs filled with regular pump gas - no additives. Been lucky with them too. They're my two Arctic Cat ATVs with the 500cc liquid cooled Suzuki engine with Keihin CV carbs. They both fire right up every spring.

 

[steve20]

get yourself some E-ZERO gas to run it the last 15 mins before storage.

 

[jhellwig]

Am I the only person that has no problems with storing engines with ethanol in the gas in unheated storage areas without adding anything to the gas?

The way I see it is that if the engine is in good running condition when it was last used it will start right up the next time it is used. (Unless it is a suction lift briggs that didn't have a full tank when last used and even that is cured by just adding gas.) No need for any fancy snake oils.

 

[boraticus]

Originally Posted By: jhellwig
Am I the only person that has no problems with storing engines with ethanol in the gas in unheated storage areas without adding anything to the gas?

The way I see it is that if the engine is in good running condition when it was last used it will start right up the next time it is used. (Unless it is a suction lift briggs that didn't have a full tank when last used and even that is cured by just adding gas.) No need for any fancy snake oils.


I'm with you other than I run carbs dry on machines that have fuel valves. Engines with no fuel valves are left all winter (six months) in an unheated shelter with regular pump gas in them. No additives used and no problems unless the engine is left unused for a number of years. And, even then, if the carb is drained, the engine normally will fire up once I add fuel. Very old fuel will eventually cause problems, ethanol or no ethanol.

I've been down that road and found that all I was accomplishing by buying various miracles in a bottle was contributing to the coffers of the manufacturers.

Money better spent elsewhere.

I will make one exception. Diesel fuel conditioner does work. It will clean the injectors.

I've been chastised in the past for taking a hard line on magic elixirs.

Now, I no longer give a rat's a$$ if people want to buy the stuff. If it gives them a warm, fuzzy feeling that they're doing wonders for their equipment by using it, who am I to wake them from their dream?

 

[The_Jeff]

Originally Posted By: JR
Coleman fuel. i know some amish and they use coleman fuel because it is good longterm.

Ken


I've used this... I get it at yard sales for $1/gal and it's cheaper than gas gas. But it evaporates so quickly! You'd need a well sealed/ not vented fuel system, unless you don't mind it evaporating and leaving nothing behind.

 

[Pop_Rivit]

Originally Posted By: jhellwig
Am I the only person that has no problems with storing engines with ethanol in the gas in unheated storage areas without adding anything to the gas?



Agreed.

I do add Stabil to my fuel, but I keep a large quantity of fuel on hand, and some of it may be a year old before I actually use it. I've never had a fuel issue.

If I had a small engine that I was planning to store for years (like I did with my John Deere 210) I'd simply run it dry and fog the cylinder. But for just storing it over the winter? Shut it off, put it away, and start it again in the spring.

The idea of adding kerosene (or other concoctions) to the gas is rather ridiculous.

 

[JimPghPA]

In my search of YouTube videos about carburetors for small engines, I have seen many problems. One video showed a brand new carburetor that was junk because the metal had no coating of anything to protect it from moisture in the air. The carb bowl was removed and white powder oxidized (rusted) aluminum was what was left of what once was a good carburetor.

I run the carb dry by turning off the supply valve if it has one. Then after it cools down to the point that I can leave my hand on the engine, I drain all the gasoline from the fuel tank, remove the carb bowl, and spray WD-40 down the carburetor little idle air hole. That small hole is sometimes hidden on the floor of the carb air intake just after the choke plate, and sometimes it is located so as to get air from a little indentation on the gasket at the front of the carb. Also spray WD-4 in ALL the passageways I can find, including the ones you can only access with the carb bowl removed. Wipe out the carb bowl with a clean rag or paper towel, and spray the inside of the carb bowl with WD-40, and put it back on the carb.

I have never seen any metal with a coat of WD-4 rust, and any WD-40 in the gas the next time it starts is not going to hurt anything.

With the carb treated with WD-40 I can let my inverter gen-set sit for many years if it is not needed for anything. The electric generation armature of inverter gen-sets use permanent magnets, and unlike the 3600 RPM units such as a Power-Mate 5000 / 6250 Peak, you do not have to run them every so often to keep residual magnetism in the armature.

 

[Bror Jace]

I think there are two issues here:

1) Hard start after storage

2) Possible rust or dry-rot in the carb or fuel system.

For #1, I would recommend Stabil or similar product. Of course, some people don't have a problem with this ... maybe luck, maybe the bizarre number of fuel blends we have in North America.

For #2, the best/easiest way to protect against corrosion is to fog the engine to the point of stalling. Leaves a nice, light mist of oil all over everything and you won't end up with a gooey elixir in the tank or cylinders that could give you a hard start problem (or in extreme cases, hydrolock) next season when you go for that first start.

 

[lars11]

Not kerosene, what made you think of that??
If you want protection you could do it the volvo penta way. Empty tank and make a very small amount of say 16:1 of 2 stroke gas. Pour some of it in mower or whatever 4 stroke, and run it till it stops. Then you will have a good winterized engine with some good corrosion protection applied to all surfaces in:
The tank
The carb
The engine intake and exhaust
The engine cylinder

Then give the exterior and linkages a spray of wd40 or other corrosion protection lube.

You can't ask for more. And it's easy. And it works. And it won't be a problem when starting in spring.

 

[Michael_P]

I tried mineral spirits and it worked okay, but these days, I store OPE dry. It works just as well. Before recommissioning, I usually leave the OPE in the sun for about 40 minutes on a warm sunny day before starting to dry out any condensation. I will loosen the fuel cap but leave it lay on the neck to avoid any surprises nature might have decided to drop in the tank.