Kerosene/Paint Thinner in engine oil and fuel?

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There's a co-worker that is adamant about using paint thinner in the engine to help clean it out safely.

He said kerosene will also work. His 14+ year old Toyota sounds quieter than the new Toyotas so I'm sold on how well he kept his engine running (no smoke, no tick, no nothing...) He hates Mobil 1 and uses the cheapest dino 10w30 for his motor.

What is the benefit of adding kerosene in engine oil and the fuel tank? What does it do to the gasoline or how does it react?

I'd imagine it would just mix and not do anything, considering they're all non-polar.
 
It's similar to some fuel cleaners and engine flushes. It can be harmful to the engine in that it can break off large chunks and harm the seals. It doesn't seem to do much in the way of fuel system cleaning.

-T
 
imost fuel systems have filters which block crud. you dont need fuel system cleaners. injectors are all self cleaning anyways.
 
Some of your quick flushes were just that, kero in a can. The main risk, as was mentioned, is when they are applied to a heavily sludged engine in an attempt to clean up neglegent or improper care. Very few owners have used this as a regular oil change procedure.

It's surely effective ..but it's also somewhat draconian for what you want to accomplish and therefore is never going to be recommended. It's also wasteful. You don't want the mass of humanity consuming a quart of paint thinner/kero for every oil change.
 
Want to put kerosene in your fuel tank? Get and add some Regane Complete Fuel System Cleaner. It's like 60-70% kerosene. (It also has 30-40% Polyether amine mixture in it, the active ingredient)

If you can find some of the older Gunk Motor Flush is was about 90% kerosene. I don't think they recomend you drive with this stuff in your oil.

Why in the world you'd want to do this to your car is beyond me. But hey, it's YOUR car. Have fun!
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[ December 16, 2004, 11:31 AM: Message edited by: 427Z06 ]
 
Funny isn't it? Kero ..or kero-like agents are used as carriers for a lot of things. We had Callgon (spl?) come in for a trial period for their cationic polymers for our clarification process. The guy had to draw up a small volume of the polymer out of a 55 gallong drum and needed my assistance. I said "hmm..smells like kero". He said, "yeah ..that's about it ..some aluminum sulphate and some kero"
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I couldn't for the life of me, at the time, figure out why you would put a petrolium product in something you were discharging to the river. It took me a while to figure out that it was only 16 gal in 175k average daily volume and that our bioculture either digested it ..or attached itself to it and was preciptitated out in the floculation process.
 
quote:

Originally posted by metroplex:


(abbreviated...)

He hates Mobil 1 and uses the cheapest dino 10w30 for his motor.


Well, hating Mobil 1........that is one part of the story that makes perfect sense. Almost any cheap dino 10w30 would be a better idea than Mobil 1.

But as for paint thinner and/or kero in an engine, I would not do it.
 
quote:

Originally posted by cryptokid:
imost fuel systems have filters which block crud. you dont need fuel system cleaners. injectors are all self cleaning anyways.

You've never heard of clogged or leaking injectors? Gummed up fuel systems from ethanol? Why do gas companies put them in then?

-T
 
i never seen a clogged fuel injector in my life and i have tested and sold hundreds and hundreds of used injectors on ebay.


the reason you dont need fuel system cleaners is for the exact reason you just stated. the gas companies already put the stuff in the gas. you dont need any more additives than what they already put in.

i know some gas companys dont use the epa required ammount of additives but they are cracking down on this so its not a big deal. if you get a couple bad tanks of gas it doesnt matter.
 
quote:

imost fuel systems have filters which block crud. you dont need fuel system cleaners. injectors are all self cleaning anyways.

What about intake valves? Take apart a high mile engine and look at the backsides of the valves, and you will be amazed at how much crud you find.

Fuel system cleaners are useful.
 
Crypto - You've got to be kidding. At my own shop, and when I worked for Mercedes, and Honda I saw/replaced/cleaned/tested/fixed a lot of dirty injectors.
Dirty injectors [deposits] make each cyl run differently, and rough running is usually the first sign.
On a recent personal note, one tank with Fuel Power additive smoothed my idle substantially [2.0 Zetec].
Dirty injectors are a very common problem that seems to be lessening in occurrance, but still needs to be adressed.
Why did the gov't/oil companies make new, higher , standards for cleaning additives in fuels?
Obviously there is a problem.
Except for the injectors that crossed your path?
 
cryptokid.....here ya go. It's a problem and you'd be suprised how little quality cleaning additives are in today's fuel.

 -
 
I know a friend who worked at Bosch and spouted the same mantra as cryptokid about injectors never clogging... Until I talked with the fuels and lubes folks at where I worked and sure enough, clogged injectors are a relatively common occurence.


BTW the car is a 2000 Ford Crown Vic and I run Mobil 93 octane fuel only because of how I tuned it. It gets 14-16 mpg around the city and 20-22 mpg on the highway. EPA rating for 2000 Police Interceptors were 16/21 (3.55 rear axle ratio, dual exhaust) and 18/25 for civilian Vics (2.73 rear axle ratio, dual exhaust).

I have 3.55s in the back, dual exhaust, aftermarket comp cams camshafts, PI intake, Marauder airbox, GT underdrive pulleys, Lightning T-stat, and a Detroit TrueTrac.

I heard Sunoco is heavy on 10% Ethanol for SE MI so I switched to Mobil 93 based on Ford Engineers' recommendations. With my timing setup, it will ping on the highway with 89 octane fuel.
 
As an answer to all those that think breaking off a lot of crud does damage a friend an I did a test at local junk yard, with the help of the owner. We found a 1979 Toyota PU with a 20R 4-cylinder engine that looked like it was shot at and missed and $%^& at and hit. It smoked so bad it could be used by the Marines for beach assaults. We removed the valve cover and you could not see any detail, like a complete valve spring. the crud was both soft like tar and hard and shiny like glass. The dip stick shows a black spot on the end, but not up to the add mark.

Now here's what we did. We found several oil filters off other engines and cleaned them out with carb cleaner. Nothing but the best for our test. Then we put two quarts of 5w30 Mobil 1 and two quarts of carb cleaner out of a 5 gal pail into the engine. We started up the engine and ran the snot out of it. It sputtered and smoked and with each passing minute, running at about 3 grand in neutral, it started running better. As the oil filter would get plugged up, we would change it and add a 50/50 mixture of Mobil 1 and carb cleaner. We reved it up and let it idle. Then we drove it around the canyon behind the junk yard, up and down the hills and never spared the horses. We beat this truck like a dog every Saturday morning for a month and each time it ran better and each time it plugged up a filter, and we unplugged it and put it back on. Then we swithched from Mobil1/carb cleaner to Mobil1/Marvel Mystrry Oil. Every one took a shot at driving it. After a couple of weeks, it got driven during the week, too. In six weeks of brutal driving we put about 1k miles on the truck. We had to replace the spark plugs twice, using NGK's both times, nothing but the best for our truck. We also cleaned the carb and pcv a couple of times and put in a new air filter and finally a new oil filter, again nothing but the best. Today the truck runs great, compression is 1=165 2=170 3=165 4=160, thats up about 10 psi per hole, with no thickners or other stuff. If breaking off crud would damage the engine, we would have seen something. We took the pan off twice, first time we scraped it out, second time it was pretty clean. Oil pressure, with a mechanical gauge is 65 psi at 3k in neutral with, finally all Mobil 1 5w30 oil. A lot of people watched our ASTM level official test and even took turns driving the truck around. It now runs without smoking, knocking or clicking, starts right up and idles smoothly and about 800rpm, and revs like crazy without missing and it pulls the hill behind the junk yard in 4th gear lugging now (5-speed) which on the first day took a struggle in 2nd, buzzing it's brains out. Not very scientific but we had fun. The owner now used the truck for a parts truck, and finally sold it for money to someone down the street. Our testing was so much fun we are going to look for a new myth to bust.
 
If he wants s solvent type cleaner adn likes home brewing he might as welluse something with some more bite!! Prior to finding this site I used B-12 Chemtool. You could just as easily mix up tolune, aceatone and xylene and it would remove most hings that oil would leave behind. Toyota has used Viton and nitrile in most of it's seals that make contact with oil since about 1986.

Now with that said why would you want to use these harsh chemical or lack luster Kerosine when you can get LC,131 or Auto-Rx shiped to your door step?
 
Kerosene has a much lower octane rating than gasoline, and would cause pinging and a loss of power. Maybe at a treat of 3-5% it wouldn't be noticed I guess. Kerosene is often used as a solvent, so I don't doubt it could be used as a fuel system cleaner. Kerosene heates burn real clean, so maybe it does the same in a gas engine.
 
It sounds like there must not have been excessive wear yet.

It also sounds like you guys had too much time on your hands. I would not bank on that project being repeatable every time.
 
quote:

Originally posted by cryptokid:
i never seen a clogged fuel injector in my life and i have tested and sold hundreds and hundreds of used injectors on ebay.


the reason you dont need fuel system cleaners is for the exact reason you just stated. the gas companies already put the stuff in the gas. you dont need any more additives than what they already put in.

i know some gas companys dont use the epa required ammount of additives but they are cracking down on this so its not a big deal. if you get a couple bad tanks of gas it doesnt matter.


Do you only work on new vehicles? Even in my limited experience I've dealt with clogged, leaking and dirty injectors. I've also cleaned many carbs that had varnish(not sure if this is the correct term) thick enough that you couldn’t scrape it off. Working on classic cars with my Dad when I was younger, the number 1 thing we did was take the carb off take it apart and clean it out. Did this problem suddenly disappear with the invention of fuel injection? Or is it a problem that modern fuel and computer controls hide better?

-T
 
quote:

Originally posted by LarryL:
...Then we put two quarts of 5w30 Mobil 1 and two quarts of carb cleaner... We started up the engine and ran the snot out of it...The owner used the truck for a parts truck, and finally sold it for money to someone down the street....

There you go metroplex. Don't mess around with that "Girlie Man" kerosene stuff. Become a "Flushinator" and dump a couple quarts of carb cleaner in your oil.
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quote:

Kerosene heates burn real clean, so maybe it does the same in a gas engine.

only because they have catalyzers on them.

Ours have always put off tons of soot until the catalyst warms up.
 
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