Just pads this time?

Status
Not open for further replies.
H

Hollow

Joined
Feb 29, 2008
Messages
1,311
Location
the South
About 30k miles ago, I had new pads and rotors put on the Subaru as a "while you're there" on a repair job. The car rarely got more than 30-40k miles out of pads due to the heavy traffic conditions over 3 different drivers in it's lifetime.

So, I'm going to do this brake job myself, as the fronts are going to be due this summer.

I have no idea what brand of pads and rotors are on there right now, as they were supplied by the mechanic doing front suspension repair. Should I just slap new pads on with a fluid flush and call it good, or replace the rotors while I'm at it?

I'm thinking of either Wagner Thermoquiets, Akebono Proact, or Audvance brand top end set? They will be ceramic no matter what I choose.
 
Are you getting any kind of feedback from the pedal? If so I would do rotors too. as far as pads go I like autozone/advance because they have lifetime warranties
 
If you don't have a noticeable pedal vibration when braking from highway speed (a vibration you don't feel you can live with), then just throw pads on it and let it eat. Save your money for something important like more oil.
 
I would bump the house brand pads from you list of possible choices and add the Bendix CT-3.

Have you looked at your rotors? Are they worth turning or do they still look good to use? On our cars, rotors are so cheap, and rust is an issue, so I just replace them.

I bought Raybestos Pro rotors for my Sonata for $27 each. It only cost about $25 more to go with fresh rotors over turning the rusty rotors. And that's assuming the local auto parts stores would have turned them properly, which is far from guaranteed.

If you want OE pad material, you could also look at Beck Arnley 089 series or Centric 100 series pads. Both of these claim to use the OE pad formula, and the Beck Arnleys will be pads supplied by the OE supplier.

Informational video on the Beck Arnley pads, if you're interested:
 
Gotta find out what the spec limits are on the rotors in thickness (and runout).

many times with newer cars, the difference between a new rotor and a worn other is only 2-3mm of total wear (includes both sides)... which means rotors are disposable and should be replaced.

If you have a mm remaining, chuck them. Turning them will remove enough material to cross over into the worn limit.
 
I always just do pads, flush, hardware and keep going. Have gone 200k on some factory rotors without a problem. But if the rotor face is gouged at all, then I replace them with raybestos. I never turn rotors. One thing I do is scratch the rotor face perpendicularly with a file to give the new pads something to bite into when I bed them. Plus, I clean them really well.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, I'd suggest about the same as Doog is. If the swept face of the rotors are not gouged, and they are above the minimum wear spec, and you don't have any pedal pulsations, take a scouring pad or flap disc to both sides to remove old pad material and if need be a file to the outer edge of the rotor if there's a lip and resue.

Turning them will remove too much material, and there's always the possibility the lathe operator screws up your perfectly good rotors. Had that happen too often.
 
I tried Wagner ThermoQuiet once and didn't like them at all. I'm using Wearever Platinum (from Advance) right now and I really like them. OEM is always a safe bet, but usually $$$.

Check the price of new front rotors on RockAuto and AAP w/discount code. I found that new rotors for my truck don't cost much more than it costs to have the old ones turned. I would definitely do one or the other if you're getting any feedback or if they look/feel grooved - if they look & feel fine, though, let 'em go one more time.
 
If you still have enough rotor thickness and your stops are smooth, don't change the rotors unless they are overly corroded. I've run 2 sets of pads per 1 rotor change on one of my cars before with no issues. I did scuff them with a sander however.

As for pads, I've been using only the Wagner TQ's for the last several years and have been very happy with them. Good pedal feel, work when cold, not noisy, not dusty, long life. I'm sure there are higher friction pads out there but there are typically compromises to them as well. The other pads mentioned might be good as well but I have no experience with them.
 
Everyone covered the rotor stuff. Decision to replace is really hit or miss, depending on quality, sticking caliper damage, etc..

A "pad slap" should include a good cleaning and inspection of caliper pins, rubber bushings, hardware kit, etc.. Choose a good brake lube of your preference.

Be aware that you might need a new hardware/rubber kit(s)and plan a means to get them after the car is apart. Sometimes I just buy everything ahead of time, and return them if not needed. I tend to buy hardware kits at NAPA or CarQuest for "better" quality. I was surprised that the last set from Advanced was U.S. made quality stuff. AZ hardware kits are horrible (my experience).
 
I'm a pad slapper. Messing with the rotors has not produced good results for me.

My first truck went 70K miles on the OE brakes, probably in large part to the MT allowing a lot of engine braking. I threw on Wagner Thermoquiet semi-metallics and some China rotors from Advance or Auto Zone. The China rotors warped in less than 20K. Probably could have kept the OE rotors longer and just done a pad slap and come out much better than I did. I also stupidly replaced the rear drums and shoes as PM at the same time...definitely should have left those alone. Self-adjusters never worked again (used aftermarket hardware and did not keep OE - I was 17).

My current truck has the same brakes up front, but 1" larger drums in the rear. It eats pads every 30K miles almost like clockwork, but is automatic trans, heavy, and has towed a lot. The first time, the OE rotors were turned. They warped after some towing. The next time it got new EBC rotors, which are still on there. I have done two pad slaps since and the EBCs are still great. No lip at the edge, and braking is smooth and straight, and very quiet. I always use semi-metallic pads, either Wagner Thermoquiets or Motorcraft. The drums have never been touched, period. The retaining clips that go on the wheel studs from the factory are still there (they get discarded when the drum comes off). The parking brake will still easily hold the truck on a steep hill without concern.

So for me, using quality parts, semi-metallic pads, and not messing with what isn't broken seems to work. I got some criticism when I made a thread asking how many pad slaps people had gotten out of rotors, but it's working for me. My truck stops better with its third set of pads on its untouched EBC rotors than it ever did after the OE rotors were turned. It's quiet, smooth, and will stop on a dime. I think turning rotors is just easy money for shops and ensures you WILL need new rotors next time.
 
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
I'm a pad slapper. Messing with the rotors has not produced good results for me.
+1
 
These days even new rotors can be crooked out of the box. An old brake lathe or an inexperienced operator can actually make your rotor worse with a grind.

We tend to pad slap first after measuring the minimum thickness, then drive it a bit. If there are no symptoms of pad deposits then enjoy!
 
New Front Rotors Raybestos Advanced Technology Amazon $47/ea after rebate This AT line is also under Napa's Ultra-Premium line; usually you're going to pay about $15-$25 more per rotor going through Napa, perk of going locally brick and mortar is that you can inspect the rotors before purchase.

Raybestos PG rotors $27/ea after rebate (I've found the PG line to be consistent from Raybestos, quality is great [machined well, good weight], just that the rotor hat and vanes aren't coated/painted) This PG line is also under Napa's 'Premium' line.

Bendix CT-3 Pads $46 on Amazon (I have these pads on my Mazda6 and they're great)

Akebono ProACT pads $53 on Amazon (have these on the GF's IS250 and they're great too)

I'd choose either of the Akebono ProACT or Bendix CT-3 pads over the Wagner Thermo-Quiet. It's too bad that Raybestos doesn't list an Advanced Tech pad application (don't have personal experience but have read great things about this line); they only have their PG Ceramic grade listed.

As far as the pad slap concern, it has been my experience that there is nothing wrong with pad slapping [I've done it in the past on my Civic], as others have mentioned, if the rotors are above min thickness, no grooving, no lip, and not heavily glazed, then pad slap. The only thing I can say against it is that since you're not getting as flat of a surface compared to a fresh new rotor, you may experience sub-optimal braking until the pads seat into the rotors; perhaps increased chance of noise. However, I believe that using new abutment clips/hardware and pin boots/bushings along with some Sil-Glyde in the right places are more important at combating noise than a totally flat rotor surface.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
These days even new rotors can be crooked out of the box.


I just had this on my work car. I'm not sure when it started but I warped a set of front rotors from a decent brand in less than 10000 miles.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. Due to the amount of rust, I'm probably going to replace the rotors as well, before they rust to the hubs. Amazing how much rust you can develop in 2-3 years when your car stays on the street year round in the rust belt...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

Donald
Akebono brake pad choice
Replies
4
Views
494
Donald
B
2018 Subaru Forester Brakes
Replies
12
Views
530
Glenda W.
JTK
2021 Chevy Traverse uneven pad wear
Replies
4
Views
237
JTK
S
Got new pads.. GG in rear FF in front?
Replies
8
Views
971
edyvw
Lockasiam
temporarily disable brake caliper
2
Replies
32
Views
903
Paco Pena
Back
Top Bottom