Just had my timing belt and water pump changed
- Thread starter YZF_Eric
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Bando makes a lot of belts and other products with rubber compounds. I don't know their reputation, however. But I have a bias toward any company that makes lots of stuff within the same industry sub-section (i.e. rubber products in automotive). In my experience those companies tend to make the best overall products.
I never used one but from what i read they seem to have a good reputation as an OEM supplier.
I wouldn't sweat it.
I wouldn't sweat it.
Did you also do the idler puley and the tensioner?
Bando is sometimes an OE supplier to Asian manufacturers. Sometimes you will find a Bando belt available from worldpac, but it doesn't appear to be the case this time. However, I'm personally skeptical when people (esp. Worldpac) says the parts from the OE supplier are identical to the ones sold under the Genuine label. It's definitely possible that a supplier has two lines of parts-- ones sold to the aftermarket and one sold to the OE that is built to the requested specs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mitsubish...=item2309313d68
Originally Posted By: ahoier
Personally, I never heard of it......when I think of belts; Dayco, Gates, and Goodyear are the first to pop in my mind....
You must be from the American car side.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mitsubish...=item2309313d68
Originally Posted By: ahoier
Personally, I never heard of it......when I think of belts; Dayco, Gates, and Goodyear are the first to pop in my mind....
You must be from the American car side.
isn't bando the oe supplier to toyota?
Originally Posted By: YZF_Eric
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Did you also do the idler puley and the tensioner?
Yes on both. Are you familiar with these engines?
No, just that I have seen too many belts, and other items on the belt damaged by bad idler or tensioner. I replace the idler and tensioner every time I do a belt that has one on our cars.
Also, it is a good idea to put new bearings and brushes in alternator at 60K on original, and every 50K after that.
Also new brushes and bendix on starter at 60K and every 50K after that. Be sure to clean down into the groves on the comutator where the brushes rub, so the insulation will not stick up higher than the comutator and cause poor contact. Also clean the case where the shaft goes,clean the shaft end, and put a small amount of grease on the shaft end.
Some things have a predictable life expectancy, and after that, they are not worth having a problem over. If you know what parts to replace in rebuilding them you can add a lot of reliabality to your vehicle.
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Did you also do the idler puley and the tensioner?
Yes on both. Are you familiar with these engines?
No, just that I have seen too many belts, and other items on the belt damaged by bad idler or tensioner. I replace the idler and tensioner every time I do a belt that has one on our cars.
Also, it is a good idea to put new bearings and brushes in alternator at 60K on original, and every 50K after that.
Also new brushes and bendix on starter at 60K and every 50K after that. Be sure to clean down into the groves on the comutator where the brushes rub, so the insulation will not stick up higher than the comutator and cause poor contact. Also clean the case where the shaft goes,clean the shaft end, and put a small amount of grease on the shaft end.
Some things have a predictable life expectancy, and after that, they are not worth having a problem over. If you know what parts to replace in rebuilding them you can add a lot of reliabality to your vehicle.
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Originally Posted By: caravanmike
isn't bando the oe supplier to toyota?
Mitsuboshi is.
isn't bando the oe supplier to toyota?
Mitsuboshi is.
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Also, it is a good idea to put new bearings and brushes in alternator at 60K on original, and every 50K after that.
Also new brushes and bendix on starter at 60K and every 50K after that.
Jim- while I'm sure you'll never have a problem with your alternator or starter with the above routine, I tihnk it's overkill, to say the least. I have never had an alternator or starter fail anywhere close to 60K on any vehicle I have ever owned. And I seriously doubt the rebuilds will only last 50K- I'd expect double that.
Just out of curiosity- what vehicles have led you to this routine?
Also, it is a good idea to put new bearings and brushes in alternator at 60K on original, and every 50K after that.
Also new brushes and bendix on starter at 60K and every 50K after that.
Jim- while I'm sure you'll never have a problem with your alternator or starter with the above routine, I tihnk it's overkill, to say the least. I have never had an alternator or starter fail anywhere close to 60K on any vehicle I have ever owned. And I seriously doubt the rebuilds will only last 50K- I'd expect double that.
Just out of curiosity- what vehicles have led you to this routine?
Bando is a Japanese OEM
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
Bando is a Japanese OEM
Means nothing, to me at least. Gates is OEM for some American cars too. Bando in this case may have just been the aftermarket belt for that brand.
Bando is a Japanese OEM
Means nothing, to me at least. Gates is OEM for some American cars too. Bando in this case may have just been the aftermarket belt for that brand.
We use some Bando Belts for some of our industrial applications at work and have no problems with them. From triple belt drive 96cfm compressors to large cog supply fan drives, tensions set by book specs and using the belt tension gauge supplied by Bando.
The starter in my Isuzu lasted 180k miles; alternators not so much, but that's because these vehicles are more volt happy then your typical vehicle....don't know why.
Oem waterpumps are the only route I go; usually get close to 120k or so.
Oem waterpumps are the only route I go; usually get close to 120k or so.
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