Jetta GLI - sudden clutch failure.

Kinda wonder if it's tuned since it was used, though even if it was un-tuned they should have caught the flash counter in the CPO process though. Recent VW clutches are not known for tolerating tuning much...
My tuned 08 Passat 2.0t... I traded the car in with 217,000 miles on the stock clutch... got it up to stage 2, with the stock clutch slipping, then back to stage 1 as emissions test was coming up, and was fine for another 50,000 miles until I got rid of the car

I had a HSTuning RSR Clutch kit ready to install (but never got around to it)...which used a TTRS pressure plate (LuK Self adjusting clutch) with a TDI ARL friction disc, made for the stock dual mass flywheel.

 
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Be sure to at least resurface the flywheel. They didn't on my Volvo and the clutch action on the new clutch (replaced at 185,000 Km due to broken internal linkage) was never as smooth as the original. That was the only clutch I've ever had to replace (knock on wood).
Very few shops have the proper equipment to resurface a dual mass flywheel. It's just easier to buy a new dual mass flywheel, even though it's pretty expensive itself.
 
Be sure to at least resurface the flywheel. They didn't on my Volvo and the clutch action on the new clutch (replaced at 185,000 Km due to broken internal linkage) was never as smooth as the original. That was the only clutch I've ever had to replace (knock on wood).
No, the dual mass needs replaced.
 
In this case pictures tell a thousand words. Get them to photograph all the parts and I will tell you what’s wrong with them.
 
Dealer quote for the slave cylinder and clutch replacement is $3300 - I about drove my ID.4 off the freeway when other half read that off to me. Slave cylinder is only ~$400 of that total.
This is crazy dealership pricing. Quick check on rockauto: Sachs clutch kit (includes slave cylinder integrated with throw-out bearing) costs $220. Total costs of parts to fix this. That's actually reasonable for VW parts. A competent VW mechanic should be able to do this in less than 8 hrs. Or, start wrenching and save yourself thousands. I did clutch jobs on all 3 cars in my signature in my small garage with hand tools. Dropping and reinstalling the transaxle on FWD is a PITA for sure, not for the inexperienced, but it can be done. On RWD cars the job is typically much easier.

It's hard to speculate what caused the failure. Maybe the old parts will provide clues. Each of my 3 cars had unique causes. Car #1: Clutch disc wore out and slipped at 90K, likely due to 1st owner driving habits. Car #2: Clutch disc failure at 120K, friction material literally fell apart (see pic). Car #3: Throw-out bearing failed at $125K; clutch disc was still OK but quite worn.

bad_clutch_s.JPG

unless the slave cylinder dumped fluid onto the clutch plate, I would try just replacing the slave cylinder before digging deeper
This is not possible on the VW GLI. Must drop transaxle to get to the slave cylinder/throw-out bearing assembly.
 
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I once owned a VW GTI with a 6 speed manual. I bought it new and the dual mass flywheel gave out at 50K. I didn't try to warranty it. I ordered a complete clutch kit which included a traditional flywheel, however lighter, along with a slave cylinder, clutch and heavy duty pressure plate. It also came with the clutch pilot tool which was wrong however. I ordered one from ECS Tuning, which is a great place to buy OEM and high quality Euro made aftermarket VW parts you wont find in auto parts stores.

Had to buy tools and fluid. Triple square drivers, engine support bar and Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS fluid, loved in the Miata community, look at Amazon reviews. That fluid when I bought it was marked made in Germany, probably the best PAO base

I had $1500 in the job doing it myself years ago. The clutch kit from South Bend had a Japanese made Excedy pressure plate but a heavy duty clutch made by Sachs.

The dual-mass flywheel does mass for a smoother driving experience. The lightweight aftermarket flywheel makes the car maybe 1/10 quicker to 60.

My brother is a pharmacy manager at WM and its his work car. Last he told me the car has 186K on it.
 
Well indy repair garage quoted $1900 so we are saying to hell with it and having it towed over there (using OEM or genuine parts btw), the $3300 from the VW dealer is absolutely crazy. Not even going to attempt to fight VW on this as its probably only an uphill battle. The indy other half is taking it to is a friend of the family so I am sure it will be no issue to get the old parts back or at least get some good pictures to see what things look like in there.

Hopefully should be back up and running sometime mid next week depending on parts availability.
 
Well indy repair garage quoted $1900 so we are saying to hell with it and having it towed over there (using OEM or genuine parts btw), the $3300 from the VW dealer is absolutely crazy. Not even going to attempt to fight VW on this as its probably only an uphill battle. The indy other half is taking it to is a friend of the family so I am sure it will be no issue to get the old parts back or at least get some good pictures to see what things look like in there.

Hopefully should be back up and running sometime mid next week depending on parts availability.
Is the indy shop a transmission repair specialist shop? And can we get a picture of the car?
After reading through this entire thread, I feel like I deserve a picture. :)
 
My 2005 Dodge Neon had a freak failure last year. I went to work, went home for lunch, left work at 5, stopped and got gas, then went across the street to the grocery store with no issues. Came out after 10 minutes, had power, no crank, no start, nada. It had occasional starting problems. The wiring harness had melted and shorted, fuel pump and the starter were kaput. Sometimes weird stuff happens. I managed to get 246k out of my Geo Prizm. Had replaced the clutch twice and was about needing its third when the harmonic balancer sheared off of the crank.
 
This is crazy dealership pricing. Quick check on rockauto: Sachs clutch kit (includes slave cylinder integrated with throw-out bearing) costs $220. Total costs of parts to fix this. That's actually reasonable for VW parts. A competent VW mechanic should be able to do this in less than 8 hrs. Or, start wrenching and save yourself thousands. I did clutch jobs on all 3 cars in my signature in my small garage with hand tools. Dropping and reinstalling the transaxle on FWD is a PITA for sure, not for the inexperienced, but it can be done. On RWD cars the job is typically much easier.

It's hard to speculate what caused the failure. Maybe the old parts will provide clues. Each of my 3 cars had unique causes. Car #1: Clutch disc wore out and slipped at 90K, likely due to 1st owner driving habits. Car #2: Clutch disc failure at 120K, friction material literally fell apart (see pic). Car #3: Throw-out bearing failed at $125K; clutch disc was still OK but quite worn.

View attachment 139873

This is not possible on the VW GLI. Must drop transaxle to get to the slave cylinder/throw-out bearing assembly.

You forgot the flywheel, which the clutch you mention on RA even specifically says to replace. Another $400. Plus the dealer is going to charge book time, plus shop supplies and tax etc.

Mk6 and 7 GTIs, GLIs and Rs are known for having a weak clutch. Just the way it is.
 
Well indy repair garage quoted $1900 so we are saying to hell with it and having it towed over there (using OEM or genuine parts btw), the $3300 from the VW dealer is absolutely crazy. Not even going to attempt to fight VW on this as its probably only an uphill battle. The indy other half is taking it to is a friend of the family so I am sure it will be no issue to get the old parts back or at least get some good pictures to see what things look like in there.

Hopefully should be back up and running sometime mid next week depending on parts availability.

A hassle, but well worth it. Please post some pics of the clutch disc, that'll tell a lot of the story.
 
Well I had an inkling to get a 3rd quote - this from an actual VW independent we have used in the past. $1,514 which includes OEM clutch kit and slave cylinder. He didn't want to quote the dual mass flywheel just yet as he wanted to inspect it first to see if it needed a new flywheel. So we will be saving ~$1800 through a little legwork - glad I decided to get that 3rd quote. Shop is a little backed up so he said best case scenario it would be done by this Friday but it may be early next week, this does not bother me for the price.

A hassle, but well worth it. Please post some pics of the clutch disc, that'll tell a lot of the story.

We asked them to toss the old clutch in the trunk so I'll be able to get some pictures once we get the car back.
 
Just put a new dual mass on.
For $400 when you've already cut the price in half he would be crazy not to. Especially if it is a vehicle he is keeping.

This is all very true - might as well just bite the bullet and do it. I was kind of surprised the indy said they wanted to inspect it first, figured they would be like yeah lets go ahead and replace it since its a little bit more $$$ for them and would eliminate one more point of failure.
 
This is crazy dealership pricing. Quick check on rockauto: Sachs clutch kit (includes slave cylinder integrated with throw-out bearing) costs $220. Total costs of parts to fix this. That's actually reasonable for VW parts. A competent VW mechanic should be able to do this in less than 8 hrs. Or, start wrenching and save yourself thousands. I did clutch jobs on all 3 cars in my signature in my small garage with hand tools. Dropping and reinstalling the transaxle on FWD is a PITA for sure, not for the inexperienced, but it can be done. On RWD cars the job is typically much easier.

It's hard to speculate what caused the failure. Maybe the old parts will provide clues. Each of my 3 cars had unique causes. Car #1: Clutch disc wore out and slipped at 90K, likely due to 1st owner driving habits. Car #2: Clutch disc failure at 120K, friction material literally fell apart (see pic). Car #3: Throw-out bearing failed at $125K; clutch disc was still OK but quite worn.

View attachment 139873

This is not possible on the VW GLI. Must drop transaxle to get to the slave cylinder/throw-out bearing assembly.
#2 resembles chinesium, thanks for the heads up!
 
This is all very true - might as well just bite the bullet and do it. I was kind of surprised the indy said they wanted to inspect it first, figured they would be like yeah lets go ahead and replace it since its a little bit more $$$ for them and would eliminate one more point of failure.
It depends on how they're going to "check it."

If they have the tool let them check it. If they're just going to look at it, replace it.
 
That is annoying when simple parts let go and then the dealer tries to screw you over... If there's plenty of clutch material left and its clear its never been overheated, then its a mechanical failure and should be covered IMO. I guess even if there's no clutch material left it should still operate normally, but just slip under any load, so still a mechanical failure, but that service department sounds like a bunch of thieves....
 
That is annoying when simple parts let go and then the dealer tries to screw you over... If there's plenty of clutch material left and its clear its never been overheated, then its a mechanical failure and should be covered IMO. I guess even if there's no clutch material left it should still operate normally, but just slip under any load, so still a mechanical failure, but that service department sounds like a bunch of thieves....
I'm really curious about the failure too but after chatting with the indy he doesn't believe the slave cylinder failed as he mentioned the clutch pedal should be on the floor if the slave went bad. Guessing like the flywheel its one of those 'replace while in there' things that the dealer quoted.

Dealer markup is nuts, I could understand a few hundred dollar difference but not $1800 difference.
 
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