I might do that. The battery is almost 5 years old.
It happened again!?!?
- Thread starter mosaud1998
- Start date
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2024
That honestly sounds like a battery and it’s been almost 5 years some batteries don’t last very long. Especially if it’s been sitting even on the charger. After awhile it will become dependent on the charger so that could be what’s happened here.
Maybe I'll pull the battery out and have it tested?
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2024
That would be a good idea. That will tell you if it needs to be replaced or not.
Interesting thing is, I'll hook it up to a trickle charger and within a few hours, it'll be fully charged. Like, today after I drove it. I hooked it on the trickle charger and came back after an hour and it was fully charged. Or the few weeks it sat in the garage after I drive it in the begging over January, I didn't constantly keep the battery on a trickle charger, Once the charger indicated the battery was fully charged, I plugged the charger off.
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AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2024
That’s strange. If it isn’t the battery I would check the rest of the charging system.
Alternator seems fine too. Had that checked out in November. Maybe it just due that because it sat on cold weather for a while
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2024
Yeah the cold is hard on them especially the batteries. Sometimes they just need to be driven for awhile to get warmed up too.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
As noted by others, there's a distinct difference between a slow crank and a slow catch.
- If the engine rolls over at the same rate it always does but doesn't immediately start, that's not a slow crank, that's a slow catch/fire
- If the engine rolls over at a significantly slower rate, that points to battery typically, but can also be a weak starter
If the engine sounds the same as it always does rolling over but just rolls over longer, that's not the battery, it's, as others noted, there not being fuel there to inject, likely due to the lines draining down which could be a check-valve issue on the pump assembly. This isn't something you should be overly worried about and on some vehicles it is "normal".
- If the engine rolls over at the same rate it always does but doesn't immediately start, that's not a slow crank, that's a slow catch/fire
- If the engine rolls over at a significantly slower rate, that points to battery typically, but can also be a weak starter
If the engine sounds the same as it always does rolling over but just rolls over longer, that's not the battery, it's, as others noted, there not being fuel there to inject, likely due to the lines draining down which could be a check-valve issue on the pump assembly. This isn't something you should be overly worried about and on some vehicles it is "normal".
Reminds me of the several discussions I've had with my teenage daughters over the years on the definition of "does it turn over" or some such phraseology.
A few of my Techs have, in the past, purchased used BMW sedans.
I'm amazed at how little they are valued after 10 or so years.
More than once they have encountered very hard to diagnose issues with
all systems that rely on electricity to function. This would mean any and everything
on a Bimmer. Proper battery replacement is no a trip to Wmart with these cars.
In many cases a new, high quality battery remedies many gremlins.
I'm amazed at how little they are valued after 10 or so years.
More than once they have encountered very hard to diagnose issues with
all systems that rely on electricity to function. This would mean any and everything
on a Bimmer. Proper battery replacement is no a trip to Wmart with these cars.
In many cases a new, high quality battery remedies many gremlins.
You can buy a Walmart battery. Just need a tool to code it unless you get the same AH battery that is in the car.
There are no Menards within 500 miles of Greenville, SC.
I am adding your story to my long list of reasons to avoid push button starts. I always turn my key on and wait for fuel pressure to get up before cranking.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2024
Yes I agree on that too. Another reason to tell people why they are bad.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
The number of people that would even know to pause at run before going to start so that the pump would prime is infinitesimally small. You two are both reaching for reasons here and it seems a bit silly. The "key" on many new vehicles, like say a 2012 F-150, just acts like a button anyways, tilt it forward and let go, it'll roll over until it starts, just like hitting the start button. It's ALL software now, I expect the number of vehicles where a key physically triggers the starter solenoid approaches zero at this point.
Want to prime the pump first? Keep your foot off the brake pedal, it'll only go to "run" then. Then hit the pedal and hit start. You've just accomplished the same thing! AMAZING!
Don't those cars prime the fuel system when it detects the key fob in the vicinity? I had an '08 E60 w/ an N52 and I clearly remember the pump running as I approached the car or touched the door handle. Maybe when you unlock the car with the fob? Mine wasn't DI maybe yours is different.
I was having a similar problem with a Nissan. It was hard to start when warm. Like after going into the grocery store for a half hour. Cranked the same just took longer to catch. After going through the usual Nissan suspects I swapped out the fuel pump. Problem solved. I took it apart to find the problem. It was an oring under the check or fuel pressure regulator located in the pump assembly inside the tank. When you split the plastic pump assembly apart the problem was obvious. Gas was leaking back down the line from between that oring. But that's only part of it. I think the other part has to do with when the PCM decides to prime. Perhaps because it senses the engine is warm it doesn't prime or doesn't prime enough and because it was leaked down there's not enough fuel. This can also be proved by beginning to start. Then stop then turn the key again and it should start right away
I can hear the pump running when I touch the door handle.
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