Is *THIS* a proper method for replacing brake calipers without the need to bleed brakes?

[lizpat]

Does this procedure actually work for replacing front brake calipers or rear drum brake cyclinders:

Step 1: make sure that brake reservoir never runs empty, be ready to refill replenish as needed.
Step 2: on new caliper, make sure to open the brake bleeding valve
Step 3: unscrew brake hose from old caliper, and install into new caliper
Step 4: Let some amount of fluid come out of the brake bleeder valve, then tighten it up and be sure to replenish the brake reservoir to the proper level.

The idea here is that trapped air wouldn't have a chance to make it to other parts of the brake line system, it would be purged through the bleeder valve. If one doesn't open the brake bleeder valve, air would almost certainly travel up the brake lines into other parts of the system. The question here is: does it actually work?

Addendum: it would be helpful to crimp the rubber brake hose before unscrewing it from the old caliper.

 

[Jetronic]

Not in my experience, the gravity bleeding is too slow and air still goes up the brake lines. But you could get lucky.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

I've had decent luck gravity bleeding lines but that's more a function of simple ABS than anything else, IMO.

I blew a brake line on my cherokee and it sat for a few weeks until it was bone dry. I was able to gravity bleed when I replaced all the lines and it worked out well. Same with replacing calipers on my pickup and grand marquis.

 

[Dave9]

Might as well try it, then if it doesn't work, time to bleed the brakes which I would plan on doing anyway. The only thing I could call universally "proper" is bleeding them, but then there are some improper things that can still work, like not using a tool to cycle ABS, just taking it out on loose gravel to activate ABS then bleed again, works on some vehicles.

 

[Astro14]

I doubt it will work. Too many ways to get air going up the line.

Once it is up there, getting rid of it often requires a lot more than a “gravity bleed“. Gravity bleed might work on a car from the 70s, even the 80s, but with ABS involved and complex routing, not a chance on a modern car

Crimping might help, but I’m reticent to crimp brake hoses, for fear of a “pinch” weakening the two points that are fully collapsed.

 

[D60]

You can try it but chances are 50/50.

I won't crimp a hose I plan to reuse. Don't forget new copper washers at least .045" thick. If they furnish .030" toss 'em in the trash. The best is 1/16" (.060")

 

[crashz]

Yes, but there is a problem with that. The bleeder needs to be attached to a clear tube and dumping into a container. The hose is key because it will tell you if the last of the air is getting out in the form of bubbles. With an open bleeder, you won't see a thing. Well, I can't anyway.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Speed bleeders are awesome

 

[goblin]

There's only one proper way of replacing your caliper and not bleeding the brakes:

- You replace your caliper, and you bleed the brakes.
- You make sure that somewhere in the Universe there's another vehicle that is having its brakes NOT bled, at the very same time. We can synchronize our clocks if you want, and I can notbleed my brakes over and over, as many times as needed. Sky is the limit.

 

[Donald]

I would not crimp the brake hose. They sell a little tool to cap off the end. Or a helper's thumb.

You are going to need to bleed the caliper you replaced. No way around it. With a helper it's 5 min.

 

[Rand]

step one .. flip over truck... now gravity is your friend.

 

[Mechanician]

Crimping a brake hose is bad a practice. Air won't just travel up the line unless someone pumps the pedal.

 

[Auto tech]

How I do it and successfully on most vehicles is use a brake hose clamp tool on line, r&r caliper, gravity bleed caliper, double check with traditional bleed procedure on caliper, top off master. Some vehicles are going to require a abs bleed through a scan tool but 90% of the time this procedure is successful. Auto tech

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

Does this procedure actually work for replacing front brake calipers or rear drum brake cyclinders:

Step 1: make sure that brake reservoir never runs empty, be ready to refill replenish as needed.
Step 2: on new caliper, make sure to open the brake bleeding valve
Step 3: unscrew brake hose from old caliper, and install into new caliper
Step 4: Let some amount of fluid come out of the brake bleeder valve, then tighten it up and be sure to replenish the brake reservoir to the proper level.

The idea here is that trapped air wouldn't have a chance to make it to other parts of the brake line system, it would be purged through the bleeder valve. If one doesn't open the brake bleeder valve, air would almost certainly travel up the brake lines into other parts of the system. The question here is: does it actually work?

Addendum: it would be helpful to crimp the rubber brake hose before unscrewing it from the old caliper.

Depends on the car. I've done that on 90s Toyotas and BMWs with success. I would also tap the caliper lightly with a hammer or whatever to free up some bubbles.