Is the engine possible to swap at home garage?
- Thread starter RyanHeo
- Start date
- Status
i did an engine swap one time but i didnt have a engine lift, or jackstands, or a jack. i ended up putting a 4x4 piece of wood across the engine, and i got on one side, a friend on the other side and we lifted the engine out using our forearms. the new one went in the same way, but with 3 people. the third was needed to line up the bellhousing. it literally took us like 2 hours to get the honda motor out. its amazing how much work you can get done with 4 or 6 sets of hands. while the replacment motor was still out, i clanged the rear main, some other hard to access parts too like the waterpump, front main, timing belt. etc etc transmission input shaft.
you can do an engine swap with literally not much more than a set of sockets and open end wrenches, a weekend, and a few buddies and nothing else as far as tools go. but its going to take all weekend without screwing around to get it done and if you run into problems, like striping a bolt head, a threads, breaking a bolt head off, etc it can take longer. also things that make it take longer is when the old motor is out, then you want to clean the engine bay with a pressure washer. then you notice youre motor mounts are nearly shot. then you decide to detail the engine bay after you replace the motor mounts. it kind of snowballs from there so you have to decide how involved you want to get with it.
but like i said you can literally change a motor out on a weekend and be running by sunday afternoon with nothing more than a set of sockets and box wrenches.
you can do an engine swap with literally not much more than a set of sockets and open end wrenches, a weekend, and a few buddies and nothing else as far as tools go. but its going to take all weekend without screwing around to get it done and if you run into problems, like striping a bolt head, a threads, breaking a bolt head off, etc it can take longer. also things that make it take longer is when the old motor is out, then you want to clean the engine bay with a pressure washer. then you notice youre motor mounts are nearly shot. then you decide to detail the engine bay after you replace the motor mounts. it kind of snowballs from there so you have to decide how involved you want to get with it.
but like i said you can literally change a motor out on a weekend and be running by sunday afternoon with nothing more than a set of sockets and box wrenches.
Hi, guys.
I had a exam, so I couldn't reply that. Sorry about that.
My garage isn't too high and wide. It can be parked 2 cars.
The problem is how to move the engine. If I buy the used one, it will be shippied in my truck. After at home, how does it pull down to garage? Can I use cherrypicker? That's my first question.
In addition the engine is only 128k but it isn't normal condition. I don't what happen was the engine when the pre-owner has it. Before I bought the car, I check the CarFax. There wasn't nothing to wrong. While I repair the car, I found some cracks of engine block and transmission block. Besides when I wax the car, I found the light side of the front is a little bit bent. So I'm sure it had something.
That's why I don't want to repair the engine anymore. I think the swap is the best way.
Thanks guys.
I had a exam, so I couldn't reply that. Sorry about that.
My garage isn't too high and wide. It can be parked 2 cars.
The problem is how to move the engine. If I buy the used one, it will be shippied in my truck. After at home, how does it pull down to garage? Can I use cherrypicker? That's my first question.
In addition the engine is only 128k but it isn't normal condition. I don't what happen was the engine when the pre-owner has it. Before I bought the car, I check the CarFax. There wasn't nothing to wrong. While I repair the car, I found some cracks of engine block and transmission block. Besides when I wax the car, I found the light side of the front is a little bit bent. So I'm sure it had something.
That's why I don't want to repair the engine anymore. I think the swap is the best way.
Thanks guys.
Ryan, before you get started, be sure there is enough head room in your garage to be able to lift your engine high enough to get it out of your car.
Some hoisting arrangements take more head room than others.
As others have said, be sure to bag and tag your parts as you take them off, it will save you a lot of heartache when it comes time to install the new engine.
Some hoisting arrangements take more head room than others.
As others have said, be sure to bag and tag your parts as you take them off, it will save you a lot of heartache when it comes time to install the new engine.
IIRC, this thread is about a 4 cylinder Integra, so it's probably not an issue, but not all ceiling joists will support all car engines. It would be a good idea to be able to tell the difference before lifting an engine.
The joist in my previous garage would have been seriously overstressed lifting an early Camry power pack so I doubled it and trussed it into the rafters to get stresses down to building code levels before I pulled the pack.
Perhaps you can build a rig with angled irons bolted to multiple joists to sustain the weight. I used this methods when I built an chin-up bar in my garage.
Ryanheo,
Pretty good advice in this thread so far. Factory Service Manuals are worth their weight in gold. And then some. Check ebay for a used one. They are expensive when purchased from the publisher, about $120 for my '97 Maxima's. Don't ask how I know. You may also be able to find an electronic version online. I did several years ago.
If a cherry picker and an engine stand can't be rented (the ideal solution), a hoist in a garage will definitely work, if your joists are stout enough. Luckily, the Nissan VQ is mostly aluminum (including the block), so it's relatively light. Beefing up your existing joists may be a good idea. You can't be too cautious when working with substantial weight hanging from a chain or cable. My advice would be to pull the car in front first, raise the engine, and then push the car back outside. That way you can sit in a relatively clean garage while you're pulling parts off the old engine, and putting on the new. Clean the entire engine assembly while you're at it, and replace wear items while it's out. Would also be a good idea to check things like your main seals, the timing chain and tensioner (known issue on early VQ30's), and such. Then push the car back in and drop it in.
Also, while the car is outside, you can detail the engine bay to your heart's content. If you're anything like me, you'll find plenty that you'll want to do while the engine is out. Take the opportunity to check parts that are otherwise inaccessible while the engine is in. Replace anything questionable while it is easy.
The ziploc bag and sharpie recommendation is a lifesaver. Along with masking or painter's tape for electrical connectors. I also use a digital camera, and take pictures of EVERYTHING. Digital pics are free, and I can view or print them out at home as needed. The Factory Service Manual has black and white diagrams, which are sometimes misleading or difficult to understand. A digital pic of your parts is something you can relate to easier. Along the same line is using white out or a paint pen to mark parts' relationships with each other. Just beware that whiteout washes off, which is fine for when you're done. Just don't accidentally wash it off before you re-assemble the parts. Don't ask....
Check out http://forums.maxima.org/ for vehicle specific information on your project.
One of the most important things is to take your time while doing it. And double check everything.
Also, don't forget to have fun.
Dave
Pretty good advice in this thread so far. Factory Service Manuals are worth their weight in gold. And then some. Check ebay for a used one. They are expensive when purchased from the publisher, about $120 for my '97 Maxima's. Don't ask how I know. You may also be able to find an electronic version online. I did several years ago.
If a cherry picker and an engine stand can't be rented (the ideal solution), a hoist in a garage will definitely work, if your joists are stout enough. Luckily, the Nissan VQ is mostly aluminum (including the block), so it's relatively light. Beefing up your existing joists may be a good idea. You can't be too cautious when working with substantial weight hanging from a chain or cable. My advice would be to pull the car in front first, raise the engine, and then push the car back outside. That way you can sit in a relatively clean garage while you're pulling parts off the old engine, and putting on the new. Clean the entire engine assembly while you're at it, and replace wear items while it's out. Would also be a good idea to check things like your main seals, the timing chain and tensioner (known issue on early VQ30's), and such. Then push the car back in and drop it in.
Also, while the car is outside, you can detail the engine bay to your heart's content. If you're anything like me, you'll find plenty that you'll want to do while the engine is out. Take the opportunity to check parts that are otherwise inaccessible while the engine is in. Replace anything questionable while it is easy.
The ziploc bag and sharpie recommendation is a lifesaver. Along with masking or painter's tape for electrical connectors. I also use a digital camera, and take pictures of EVERYTHING. Digital pics are free, and I can view or print them out at home as needed. The Factory Service Manual has black and white diagrams, which are sometimes misleading or difficult to understand. A digital pic of your parts is something you can relate to easier. Along the same line is using white out or a paint pen to mark parts' relationships with each other. Just beware that whiteout washes off, which is fine for when you're done. Just don't accidentally wash it off before you re-assemble the parts. Don't ask....
Check out http://forums.maxima.org/ for vehicle specific information on your project.
One of the most important things is to take your time while doing it. And double check everything.
Also, don't forget to have fun.
Dave
I have a repair manual which was got from the Internet site.
Do I have to buy another manual?
Thanks.
Do I have to buy another manual?
Thanks.
I've removed my drive train from a '97 Taurus SHO at least 3 times out in the drive way. Pretty easy on a FWD car as long as you have the proper equipment.
I set the subframe with drive train and steering onto a dolly then jack the body up over the entire dolly and engine. Just wheel the thing out. Got it down to 4-5 hours to take out or install.
I set the subframe with drive train and steering onto a dolly then jack the body up over the entire dolly and engine. Just wheel the thing out. Got it down to 4-5 hours to take out or install.
Same color and Gen Taurus I have, but I have the mighty VULCAAAN.
I did two engine swaps on 96s out the top. Without removing the AC compressor like the manual said to do.
I like the idea of what you did. Did you just use a regular full size floor jack? Looks like your back bumper would be just about laid on the ground.......
I like the idea of what you did. Did you just use a regular full size floor jack? Looks like your back bumper would be just about laid on the ground.......
So what I need to pull the engine out are basically an engine hoist(2ton), a cherry picker, two floor jacks, and jack stand. Am I understanding correctly now?
Thanks.
Thanks.
One floor jack and two jack stands. Although I have two floor jacks and eight jack stands.
One of those levelers would be nice, but I have never had one. But I want to get one because it makes easier.
One of those levelers would be nice, but I have never had one. But I want to get one because it makes easier.
Ryan, you should take Dave up on his offer or get a manual from someplace. Copy the engine removal pages and tape the copies up on your garage wall where you can read them without putting your greasy paws on them.
Check off each step as you complete it, It's hard to tell when you are done on a fwd powerpack because things are so tightly packaged. When you think you are ready to pull the pack, look very carefully all around the power pack to see if you still have anything connected to it. It gets more complicated once you have started to lift the pack and find something still connected.
Keep the tools you use to pull the pack out and in one area. You will use the same tools putting it back in and you won't have to look for them in a tool box.
Take pictures of anything that isn't real obvious and make notes of any unusual tool combinations you needed to take anything off or out, you will need it again to install the new power pack.
Go slowly and think it through. it's bummer to get the engine bolted back in and find out you have to pull it part way out to connect something.
The real value in doing it yourself isn't the money you save, it's what you learn so study the process as you do it, don't just do it to get it done.
It is really good advice to me.
Thanks.
Thanks.
I may be way off base here but if you have never changed an engine or at least have a very good friend that has changed one. Don't try it. Take it to a shop. Just my .02 worth that's probably only worth .01. If you do try it TAKE PICTURES and lots of them. The 2-3 boxes of baggies and an Sharpie or 2 is a must. LABEL EVERYTHING.
Yes it is possible, I was lucky to have a team of about 4 people working 12hrs nonstop to get it done. Back then I needed to save money and since this was before the days of the digital camera, labeling everything thoroughly was the only way to go. I have learned quite a bit, but due to the changing technology I’d highly doubt that I would attempt anything similar these days, especially with all the sensors and electronics involved. Take the advice of some of the gurus here and let us know how it all went.
First if that is FWD it is almost always easier to take it out the bottom then the top. Most OEM's put the engine fully dressed and mated to the transmission in together at the same time from under the car. A cherry picker is not going to help much with that. A cherry picker is used when you have the space in an engine compartment to remove the engine from the top like on most RWD car's and truck's. With the hood on on most RWD's you can pull the engine no problem from the top but usualy have to drop trans's from the bottom. If you have the hood off and the radiator out of the way sometimes youc an get both the engine and transmission out the top on a RWD. You are more then likely going to need some good jack stand's, a highlift hydralic jack, some assorted pieceing of wood, some heavy chain's and engine brace support or a 4x6. It definately should not cost you $1000 in specialized tools. A decent set of craftsman tools should get most of the job done.
I put a Corvette motor and automatic in a Toyota 4Runner under a car port. I swaped out camshaft's in a college parking lot and did the wifes Buick in my pole barn.So yes it can be done but if you do not have experince with working on car's I think you are going to get yourself into some trouble. THis is not consider a genral DIY project it would be considered an Advanced DIY project. To get any harder you would have to rebuild the engine and transmission your self or build a quarter panel from a piece of sheet metal.
- Status
Similar threads
