Is synthetic really better?

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I have always thought giving my engine synthetic oil is better than conventional or synthetic blend. To me it's like I'm treating my baby to the best. I'm always looking what which oil is better, doing research, etc. But in the end does it make a difference? Reason I started to ponder about this is because...
Recently I was at a body shop in which the space is shared with a taxi company. I couldn't help but notice the taxis were all crown vics which is nice because it's like the cousin/brother to my town car. If you didn't know, the crown vic, town car, and grand marquis share the same engine along with a lot of other commonalities. Anyways getting to the point- I wanted to see what oil they were using. I went over and saw a couple of empty jugs of SuperTech conventional 20w-50. Then, I started peaking at the odometers of these cars and it read upper 200k, 300k, 400k, and I even saw 2 that were over 500k miles. I spoke to one of the mechanics. Asked him, do you always put this oil into the cars? Yes. He ended up telling me they use such a high viscosity to protect the engine from all the idling, stop and go traffic, and Miami heat (sae recommends 5w30). I asked what's the secret in keeping these engines going so many miles. He said, besides it being one of the most dependable engines in his opinion, they do 3k OCI's. They could push it to 3.5-4k but with all the idling and traffic they just do it at 3k.

If they can get upwards of 400k miles on supertech conventional, why do we (I should say I) make such a big deal about synthetic oils or oils in general? Personally, at the rate I go, I wouldn't be able to get 400k miles on my car before I became to old to drive- just a saying but you get the point.
 
I believe you are on to something here too in certain applications. If a car has a motor that is relatively easy on oil, gets up to operating temps routinely and stays there, and it is not beat on hard then this idea does work. I do think that the conventional oils now being made are so much stronger that it's not quite a slam dunk to just automatically run a synthetic. I am now running Pennzoil Gold Synthetic blend in my Altima 3.5. I am very pleased with how well this relatively inexpensive oil runs great in my car. Looking at the latest Pennzoil Conventional 10w30 and 5w20 PQIA test results it makes it even easier to want to run a "conventional" oil. There are certainly reasons to run a full synthetic oil in some applications. In areas where the ambient temperature gets down below 0°F regularly this where synthetic oils give a big help to those cars and trucks. Cold flow properties mean a lot in the upper plains states, Great Lakes area, and the northeast. Yes conventional oils can start in cold temps but not has well as synthetics. In motors that shear oil synthetic oil is able to resist this effect better than conventional oil. Motors that have small sump sizes that get less time to cool down then synthetics are helpful in that they are less volatile has well.
But I think you are right in that "conventional" oils are certainly good for many places and applications. I have run Castrol w titanium in the gold bottle Havoline Pro DS, and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum which I have been very pleased with. But I have to say that I am very pleased running Pennzoil Gold Synthetic blend too. I am thinking that I am just going to run this or Quaker State Enhanced Durability as well. However if I move to Fairfax Vermont where I went to vacation two yrs ago then I would run the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum again. -25 to -30°F is quite chilly
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The 4.6 and its big brother, the 5.4, are well known to be high mileage engines no matter what oil is used. I work for a local courier/delivery service. We have a whole fleet of Ford vans with 4.6 and 5.4s, many of which have 300K, 400K, 500K miles on them. We even have a couple over 600K. The oil used in them is just the cheapest conventional 10w30 in 55 gallon drums from our local supplier. The planned OCI on these vehicles is 5000 miles, but it's pretty common for them to go 7000-8000 miles because we're busy and they're needed on the road.
 
Synthetic lasts longer. Unless you are extending the interval or the engine has specific synthetic needs a syn isn't any better than a conventional at short 5000 mile intervals.
In fact there is a strong case that conventional oils contribute to less wear vs their synthetic counterparts when running a 5000 mile or less interval.
As far as your town car and those crown Vic's the only thing they have in common is the number 4.6. Other than that then engines are very different.
To answer your question if syn makes a difference. Only if you experience very cold start up temps due to syn being easier to pump and having a better pour point temp and if you are running extended drains.
Running a syn and an extended drain filter for 5000 miles is a waste of money and resources. Any conventional oil and an orange can will do that interval for less money without any detrimental effects to the engine.
So yes it makes a difference if you are running extended drains. If running a standard drain the only difference is your wallet.
Synthetic oil is oil. It's just a more refined longer lasting product. It is not more slippery nor will it make an engine last longer than using conventional with an appropriate interval.
High performance spec exempt.

And the manufacturer says use a 5w-20 in a 4.6 in all years after 99. Not 5w30

20w-50 in a mod motor is retarded. It increases drag and costs real world power. 400000 miles on a mod motor is not anything special. In a cab it's typical so don't be too impressed. The engine design is very durable
 
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Originally Posted By: bigt61
500k on SuperTech 20W-50? A couple of guys will be spitting up their coffee this morning.


Suntea, yes.

Reality is, those car would have run 500K even if they used the recommended 5w30 or 5w-20.

And SuperTech oil is fine.
 
At this point, I don't think that Shell even sells a "conventional" oil anymore except maybe Formula Shell and some house brand oils.

Shell's main lineup, starting at Pennzoil conventional, is speculated on this site as all being synthetic.

So you can pay extra for the better ad pack, higher TBN etc, but as specs become more demanding "conventional" oil will become a thing of the past.

I don't think any 2015 model car, from any car company, even allows "conventional oil" anymore.

So aside from adding Super Duper in front of the name of the oil, they are all becoming full synthetic oils even if it doesn't say so on the label.

It is the Specs on the BACK of the bottle that matter for your application.
 
In the volume they use they could have used SS Motorcraft, Trop Artic, 76 ss, Coastal ss as well and at under $360 a 55 gallon barrel they could use good oil cheap. Plus I do not rotate tires on cars. I don't like doing it, paying for it, and the wear and tear on my hubs, alloys, etc. And if you pay for it. One new set of front tires is cheaper every once in awhile. I'm the same on oil changes. Every 3k oil changes tears your car up especially if your having a monkey at a fast lube place do it. Sometimes cheapness is not what it seems. Not to mention too much garage down time.
 
Originally Posted By: zach1900
What does conventional even mean, they are probably partially synthetic anyways.


That's kind've my take on it. Synthetic oil all begins as crude,as I read on Exxon Mobil's FAQ page (maybe besides some exotic brands,but from what I've been reading here lately,who really knows anymore??). I've always wondered what ingredient it is in synthetic labeled oils that make them last longer per se.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: zach1900
What does conventional even mean, they are probably partially synthetic anyways.


That's kind've my take on it. Synthetic oil all begins as crude,as I read on Exxon Mobil's FAQ page (maybe besides some exotic brands,but from what I've been reading here lately,who really knows anymore??). I've always wondered what ingredient it is in synthetic labeled oils that make them last longer per se.


Whatever it is, it is being closer than before. We have a few people who have run 10K (even 11 or 12) on a "conventional" oil.

I think at this point, it just acts as some sort of designation of cheap or better.

It's hard for a lot of us to get over - myself included - but most conventional are able to go 10K in most modern port injected applications.
 
Originally Posted By: Falken


I don't think any 2015 model car, from any car company, even allows "conventional oil" anymore.


Hyundai does. API SM / ILSAC GF-4 is all that's required, even for their turbo applications. There has been no widespread issues either.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
...As far as your town car and those crown Vic's the only thing they have in common is the number 4.6. Other than that then engines are very different....


You may want to double check your facts before spreading this misinformation.
 
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Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: Falken


I don't think any 2015 model car, from any car company, even allows "conventional oil" anymore.


Hyundai does. API SM / ILSAC GF-4 is all that's required, even for their turbo applications. There has been no widespread issues either.


Yep. Mine just says quaker state 5w20, 5w30, or 10w30.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: zach1900
What does conventional even mean, they are probably partially synthetic anyways.


That's kind've my take on it. Synthetic oil all begins as crude,as I read on Exxon Mobil's FAQ page (maybe besides some exotic brands,but from what I've been reading here lately,who really knows anymore??).


Except the SOPUS primary focus on making synthetic from NG.
 
Shouldn't oil made from NG. be the finest of fine as long
as everything else is up to snuff. Like I make springs from
"Super Clean" valve wire steel. I pay 3x more for it but it is worth it.
Who else makes oil from NG?
 
Originally Posted By: Justin251
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: Falken


I don't think any 2015 model car, from any car company, even allows "conventional oil" anymore.


Hyundai does. API SM / ILSAC GF-4 is all that's required, even for their turbo applications. There has been no widespread issues either.


Yep. Mine just says quaker state 5w20, 5w30, or 10w30.


Chrysler.

Guys run Pennzoil Conventional in their Hemi and Pentastar engines for 7.5k plus.
 
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