Is my Explorer PTU on its way out?

[Klutch9]

NOTE: the PTU in my 2016 Explorer 2.3 is not the troublesome one that cooks the fluid and is hard to drain. The 4-cylinder models get a PTU with larger fluid capacity and doesn’t suffer from extreme heat like the other unit does. That being said…

I did a drain/fill on the PTU this afternoon. Super easy, as the drain and fill plug are easy to access. First drain/fill was done at 45k miles 2 years ago. Today at 71k miles (26k on fluid), I was shocked at what it looked like it was still quite amber, but there was a lot of material on the magnet, and the oil bucket was a glitter show. See attached pics. I haven’t noticed any weird noises, and the vehicle still drives great and gets the same mileage. I honestly can’t recall what the fluid looked like when I changed it last, other than being darker. I’ve read that these PTUs tend to shed metal and often look glittery, but it’s not necessarily indicative of a problem. We’ll see. The last fill was Valvoline 75w140, this time I used Mobil 1 75w140. Maybe it didn’t like the Valvoline?

 

[Dave9]

What is the fluid capacity? I had thought that they all used the same PTU design and the only difference was whether there was the drain plug.

Either way, what is your plan? With no operational symptoms, I'd just refill the fluid and hope that the issue was that when it was drained originally, those deposits were just left behind and the fresh fluid broke them loose. Even if it is wearing out, do you intend to replace it before it does? I don't know what else to suggest since you are now doing a good fluid change interval.

I think the fluid not being dark, or thickened, is a good sign. I don't think it is that picky about brand of fluid, except that some might normally darken a bit more than others.

 

[Klutch9]

What is the fluid capacity? I had thought that they all used the same PTU design and the only difference was whether there was the drain plug.

Either way, what is your plan? With no operational symptoms, I'd just refill the fluid and hope that the issue was that when it was drained originally, those deposits were just left behind and the fresh fluid broke them loose. Even if it is wearing out, do you intend to replace it before it does? I don't know what else to suggest since you are now doing a good fluid change interval. I don't think it is that picky about brand of fluid.

This PTU has a whopping 24oz capacity the troublesome unit holds only 18oz I believe. FWIW, the glitter was very fine, no chunks. I guess I’ll just send it and keep changing the fluid frequently, and see what happens. Maybe I’ll make it a yearly maintenance item.

This is an unrelated point, but I really have no idea why it can’t hold more fluid. At least on the 4 cylinder model, there is ample space for a larger housing to hold double or triple the fluid. Honestly.

 

[4WD]

This PTU has a whopping 24oz capacity the troublesome unit holds only 18oz I believe.

With about 15oz you can change through some insane methods

 

[JavierH19]

What is the lowest temp you drive the vehicle in the winters. Given that amsoil sae 250 gear oil has a pour point down to -13f I'd use that if it's not close to it. It should warm up given how the ptu gets heated up. I'd look into trading it in soon or make sure you have the money saved for the ptu to go out if you wanna keep it. I'd just keep driving it but I'd definitely use sae 250 gear oil. it's about 80% thicker than 140. Still a lot thinner than what hard used gears like that should get which is semi liquid grease like 000 or 00 grease.

 

[Klutch9]

What is the lowest temp you drive the vehicle in the winters. Given that amsoil sae 250 gear oil has a pour point down to -13f I'd use that if it's not close to it. It should warm up given how the ptu gets heated up. I'd look into trading it in soon or make sure you have the money saved for the ptu to go out if you wanna keep it. I'd just keep driving it but I'd definitely use sae 250 gear oil. it's about 80% thicker than 140. Still a lot thinner than what hard used gears like that should get which is semi liquid grease like 000 or 00 grease.

During wintertime probably -5 to -10F. Thicker fluid also means more friction though, and hotter fluid. And again, this PTU doesn’t suffer from excessive heat. I did a long drive today before I drained the fluid, and it was hot but not scalding.

 

[Whimsey]

We have a bought new 2017 Explorer 2.3 EB. I had the dealer chance the PTU gear oil at 10,000 miles, They used Motorcraft 75W-140. I have no idea how it looked unfortunately. After that I went with Amsoil 75W-140 SVG. The first change with Amsoil was at 12,000 miles after the initial change Motorcraft change. The Amsoil changes were done by my local mechanic where I could witness the drain plug magnet. Unfortunately the oil was drained into a shop drain container so I never really could see if there was metal in the fluid. However the magnetic drain plug was almost totally devoid of any metal buildup any time the oil was changed. After the first Amsloil change it was changed in the every ~22,000 range with the Amsoil 75W-140 SVG, The same with the drain plug magnet being almost devoid or devoid of metal.At 99,000 miles it was operating fine.

 

[Passport1]

My 2018 Edge has the same PTU with the 16 oz. capacity. I had the local Ford dealer change it before the warranty expired. I wanted to document that it was changed in case it fails. Ford will sometimes fix things for 'good will' if you bark at them long enough. I know they changed it because they charged me for two quarts and the amount of 75W-140 gear lube burning off the exhaust pipe for hours was noxious. Maybe they haven't heard of brake cleaner.

 

[Klutch9]

My 2018 Edge has the same PTU with the 16 oz. capacity. I had the local Ford dealer change it before the warranty expired. I wanted to document that it was changed in case it fails. Ford will sometimes fix things for 'good will' if you bark at them long enough. I know they changed it because they charged me for two quarts and the amount of 75W-140 gear lube burning off the exhaust pipe for hours was noxious. Maybe they haven't heard of brake cleaner.

The gear oil probably soaked into the exhaust, especially if there was any rust on it.

 

[Klutch9]

UPDATE:

I feel that the PTU is on its way out. No idea how, and I have yet to read online of anyone with the 2.3 having a bad PTU. Since I did the last fluid change a few weeks ago I’m getting a cyclical hum starting around 25 mph all the way up to like 60 ish, but only under moderate load. If I’m coasting, applying light load, or heavy load (like merging into a freeway), I don’t hear the noise. But under moderate load I hear a “whomp whomp whomp whomp” noise. Like a bad/noisy tire, but it sounds slightly more metallic, like a noisy rear differential. Any thoughts? I’m going to do another PTU fluid drain/fill when I change the oil next month. We’ll see how the metallic content looks. I don’t have any change in my MPG, no leaks, etc.

Maybe it is just the tires? I’m putting my winter tires on next month too, I guess that will answer that question.

 

[Hootbro]

What about the driveshaft and RDU? I would not discount those, especially the driveshaft as it looks like a sealed two piece unit with a built in center support bearing.

 

[Klutch9]

What about the driveshaft and RDU? I would not discount those, especially the driveshaft as it looks like a sealed two piece unit with a built in center support bearing.

RDU doesn't fail on these often. Also, the main concern was the PTU, since the most recent fluid change had a lot of glitter in it.

 

[Klutch9]

UPDATE: yesterday, at just under 79k miles (about 8k on fluid) I did another drain and fill on the PTU. While the fluid was still amber and not burnt at all, there was a ton of glitter in the fluid, and a noise has developed in the last 5 months or so, shortly after the last fluid change (see post above). Strangely, that sound hasn’t really gotten any worse, and only appears as the vehicle warms up. I’m guessing cold, thick fluid helps mask the issue. I’m thinking this unit is sadly on the way out. Trying to determine difficulty of replacing myself. Parts cost isn’t too bad. I refilled with Redline 75w140. Seems wasteful on a dying unit, but it takes less than a quart and the Redline is the thickest I could find in this grade.

 

[zzyzzx]

Personally I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[KCJeep]

UPDATE: yesterday, at just under 79k miles (about 8k on fluid) I did another drain and fill on the PTU. While the fluid was still amber and not burnt at all, there was a ton of glitter in the fluid, and a noise has developed in the last 5 months or so, shortly after the last fluid change (see post above). Strangely, that sound hasn’t really gotten any worse, and only appears as the vehicle warms up. I’m guessing cold, thick fluid helps mask the issue. I’m thinking this unit is sadly on the way out. Trying to determine difficulty of replacing myself. Parts cost isn’t too bad. I refilled with Redline 75w140. Seems wasteful on a dying unit, but it takes less than a quart and the Redline is the thickest I could find in this grade.

While I don't think your observations have led to a conclusion that is baseless, it does seem like this has gotten into your head. Just relax and drive it. If it goes you've already done all you could.

I'm suspicious of tires for the noise, if it was a looming mechanical failure I'd think that would definitely be getting progressively worse, not holding steady.

JMO.

 

[nascarnation]

Mechanically what is in this housing ? The one in my old awd Saturn Vue is just a 90 degree gearset and bearings to support it. [On the newer GMs they added a setup to disengage the driveshaft to lower spin loss.] But don't discount the driveshaft center bearing as a noisemaker. That happened on the Saturn. It got really loud quickly. You can remove the driveshaft and drive the vehicle on the fwd only to help isolate the noise issue. [Mark both ends with a paint marker or similar in case there's any index relationship that needs to be maintained]

 

[Klutch9]

While I don't think your observations have led to a conclusion that is baseless, it does seem like this has gotten into your head. Just relax and drive it. If it goes you've already done all you could.

I'm suspicious of tires for the noise, if it was a looming mechanical failure I'd think that would definitely be getting progressively worse, not holding steady.

JMO.

It’s not tires. I have a separate winter tire and wheel set, and that makes the same noise. I’ll keep driving it, but the fact that it’s shedding so much metal is proof that it’s failing. The first fluid change was by me at 44k miles, with no metal in the oil and a nearly clean drain plug.

 

[brandon9715]

Reading through this thread, it sounds like you’ve had your mind made up since you saw the glitter in the oil. Nothing anyone has suggested is something you’re willing to look into or consider, so there’s nothing more to say. +1 on driving it and not worrying about it.

 

[Klutch9]

Reading through this thread, it sounds like you’ve had your mind made up since you saw the glitter in the oil. Nothing anyone has suggested is something you’re willing to look into or consider, so there’s nothing more to say. +1 on driving it and not worrying about it.

What else would there be to look into or consider? I’m always open to trying whatever is needed to troubleshoot.

 

[Cujet]

What else would there be to look into or consider? I’m always open to trying whatever is needed to troubleshoot.

There are many such systems in use today. In just about every case, they contain a token quantity of lubricant and are at times, very heavily loaded. It is almost universal to see glitter in the oil, with any of them, on any brand. As you correctly noted, some are known for early failure. Some are not.

One thing is clear, a very high quality oil and frequent changes increase lifespan markedly when such systems are used on track day sports cars. In fact, it can make the difference between bearing failure or not.

The good news is that bearing changes are often quite easy for DIY types.

I have been using Royal Purple 75-140 in my AWD Jag's case. Mostly because it is locally available. Working great.