Electrical engineer here. Many of the old wives tails about jumpstarting are just ridiculous. If you can manage negative and positive to positive without shorting the two together (no matter how fun the sparks are to look at) you'll be fine.
Key pro tips.
1) connect to the dead battery first. why?? because its dead and if the other ends clap together, there is less energy to cause sparks.
2) Connect to the battery terminals and get a secure mechanical connection but it doesn't need to be super great. It just needs to be stable enough that when the motor starts it doesn't shake them off. Clamping ground to the metal chassis is more problematic than to the battery terminals. You will change the starter current path to a location where the manufacturer didn't intend and it could loop through some sensitive circuits. Yes it would be better to connect near the starter but most people cant identify the starter anyway.
You are only flowing a few 10s of amps into the dead battery, not 100s of amps. The point is to charge the other cars battery with your alternator until it is able to provide most of the cranking amps to start it. Trying to crank from another cars battery is where trouble comes in. Which leads to #3
3) Don't crank the car as soon as the cables are connected. give it a good 5-10 minutes to charge the battery first. Most of the electrical problems are not spikes but brownouts (low voltage). The memory chips in the computer don't like the voltage bouncing below and above it minimum operating voltage over and over again. They will sometimes glitch and overwrite/erase some memory locations then you lost the programming. Easy enough for an tech to reprogram but the dealership doesn't tell you that. They sell you a new computer and send that one in for reprogramming. Cha-ching!
4) I like to check the battery charge with the headlight and brake lights before cranking the car. if they are strong, it should be ready to crank. With the LED ones today that is not as useful than when it was incandescent. high beams also tell the story. if the dash lights dim when you hit the high beams, battery is still too weak.
4) Once cranked take to time to carefully remove the cables from either end and be very careful to keep the red and black from touching until both ends are disconnected. It doesn't matter which end gets disconnected first but take both connectors off one end then the other. There is no hurry to do it so dont rush yourself and make a mistake.
if you do all of these. the electronics inside won't know the difference. The car may feel funny since all the save setting will have to reset and the car may need to (tune) itself again. I hate this since there are many memory chips on the market that can save settings and not lose it when the power is disconnected. Oh well.