Is CPVC pipe a ticking time bomb?

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my cousins house was built 20 years ago. in the last couple of year i have help chase down 2 leaks in the wall. one hot and one cold. both times they were at a joint. when we tried replacing some of the pipe we noticed the old pipe had hardened. Could not cut it with a hand squeeze cutter as it would shatter unlike the new pipe which was still flexible.

the last leak damage his floor a little. they were planning to remodel the kitchen in a couple of years so left it alone. i told them to rip out all the cpvc pipe and redo the whole house when they remodel. told them its a ticking time bomb.

So whats your opinion on Cpvc pipe. is it good stuff or junk?
 
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Used to rent trailer houses for construction sites … that stuff seemed to always fail at connections but had some extra tube to repair … and it was under the floor too.
In an attic over sheet rock? You know …
 
my cousins house was built 20 years ago. in the last couple of year i have help chase down 2 leaks in the wall. one hot and one cold. both times they were at a joint. when we tried replacing some of the pipe we noticed the old pipe had hardened. Could not cut it with a hand squeeze cutter as it would shatter unlike the new pipe which was still flexible.

the last leak damage his floor a little. they were planning to remodel the kitchen in a couple of years so left it alone. i told them to rip out all the cpvc pipe and redo the whole house when they remodel. told them its a ticking time bomb.

So whats your opinion on Cpvc pipe. is it good stuff or junk?

Could the incorrect cement have been used causing an adverse reaction? Just a thought. I built my house 16 years ago and kept with copper pipe for baseboard heat and PCV for plumbing pipes. I also am not carrying water above 140F. I should backtrack a bit; I don't know what the temp of the dishwasher waste water is when it's exiting. 16 Years same PCV serving the dishwasher so not going to worry on that one.
 
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CPVC is an entirely acceptable product if it is installed properly. Proper installation is a little different from other materials, though. Here's a link to one manufacturer's best practices, and I'm going to add a few points that might be hard to find with a web search but they are important.


Most manufacturers will discuss the importance of a proper fit but they don't go into a lot of detail about why. You mentioned failures at joints so we'll focus on that here.

It's particularly important with CPVC to cut it with the right tool, especially if it's old (mentioned in the link above) and prior to assembly, de-burr the end of the pipe with the right tool. Then test fit to the coupling. The information that is hard to find is this -- the couplings you buy at the home center or hardware store may not meet the tolerance specification of the original pipe manufacturer, you may find that the fittings are sometimes too loose. Not all manufacturers hold the same tolerances, and depending upon where the couplings came from, there could be problems.

CPVC is very sensitive to loose-fit couplings, glue starvation, too much glue, or the wrong glue.

If you cut the pipe with the right tool, de-burr the end, follow the specific manufacturer's instructions carefully, test-fit the coupling dry to make sure the pipe goes in but does not bottom out all the way with gentle pressure, apply the right glue in the right amount with the right size applicator, make the joint properly with the right seating depth and the right amount of glue squeeze-out, and install the pipe so it is not stressed by thermal expansion or contraction, CPVC is very reliable and will last a long time.

In anticipation of objections, yes, people get lucky all the time, they don't know this or don't do it and the pipe holds. But sometimes it doesn't, and sometimes this is why.

Re-plumbing a house is sometimes necessary but it's expensive. Another option to consider, perhaps as an interim measure, is there are some controls on the market, both flow alarms and monitoring devices that will automatically shut off the water and even notify you if the flow conforms to certain pre-set parameters that typically correspond to a leak. They are programmed to minimize nuisance alerts, they can recognize the operation of a washing machine, for example. A web search will turn up many name-brand choices.
 
my cousins house was built 20 years ago. in the last couple of year i have help chase down 2 leaks in the wall. one hot and one cold. both times they were at a joint. when we tried replacing some of the pipe we noticed the old pipe had hardened. Could not cut it with a hand squeeze cutter as it would shatter unlike the new pipe which was still flexible.

the last leak damage his floor a little. they were planning to remodel the kitchen in a couple of years so left it alone. i told them to rip out all the cpvc pipe and redo the whole house when they remodel. told them its a ticking time bomb.

So whats your opinion on Cpvc pipe. is it good stuff or junk?
I guess it depends on the installation. In my house which is 18 years old, copper was the standard at the time. These days it's PEX.

When your cousin's pipes fail, who is going to fix the pipes and damage to sheetrock etc when the time comes? If he's not DIYing it, costs can add up quickly. For me any failure in my house and I'll use new copper since I'm familiar with soldering joints etc.

PEX is cheaper, but I have no knowledge and no pex tools at the moment.
 
I prefer it over that PEX garbage.
If I were building a house I would use K & L copper. I'm old school.

PEX has come a long way; it's used a ton around here. Any water line plumbing I do it's PEX, I do very little soldering anymore and it's usually just to put on the adapter. CPVC does not have a good track record up North, for obvious reasons. PVC and CPVC water lines are the norm down South as there's less chance of freezing and biggest reason, it's cheaper. When I worked at a building supply in Mississippi we sold mostly CPVC and PVC for water lines. Mostly because it was cheaper, people would rather buy half a dozen $.50 couplers for a 3' run repair instead of replacing it with something better. Calling it like I seen it.
 
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I would add that if there is any possibility at all of the pressure in the house being higher than it should be because of the feed line to the house supplying too much pressure, than be sure to install a pressure regulator. On our house the line coming in from the street first goes to a ball valve that lets you easily turn of the water with turning the valve leaver 90 degrees. Then to the water meter, then to a T that feeds a tall piece of pipe with the top capped off so as to trap air and then to a pressure regulator that feeds the house. If the pressure regulator does not allow any more water to enter the house when no more water is being used, and the water in the incoming line warms some and expands even a very little bit, then the trapped air in the tall capped off line before the pressure regulator has a small amount of trapped air in that capped off line to allow room for the very small increase in volume from water in the incoming line changing temperature. I know this sounds like a little far fetched scenario, but water lines to houses have a check valve at the street and will not allow any water to back-flow. And if the water in the line from the street expands even a little bit, and the pressure regulator valve will not allow any water into the house because the house is not using any and the pressure in the house is up to what it should be, then a small space for the very small amount of expansion prevents the expansion to cause what could otherwise be a very high increase in pressure in the incoming line that could cause that line to break.
 
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If PEX is so great then why is it not approved for Commercial?

Where? I googled that and it seems it's approved and used in commercial applications all over.



PEX is used extensively in residential here, our 2018 house has it. They pressure test the system for 24 hours at higher than operating pressure with no pressure loss acceptable.
 
Pex is probably the best thing out there. In Germany one of the original manufacturers had a test set up that had been running at 180 degrees and 100 psi for almost 25 years. The stuff is as good as new. The Achilles heel is in the connections. I have yet to see a good connector system for residential that I am comfortable with.
 
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Pex is probably the best thing out there. In Germany one of the original manufacturers had a test set up that had been running at 180 degrees and 100 psi for almost 25 years. The stuff is as good as new. The Achilles heel is in the connections. I have yet to see a good connector system for residential that I am comfortable with.

A manifold system is the way to go.
 
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My moms house has 20 year old CPVC as well, It does get brittle with age, you have to cut the old stuff with a hacksaw or it will split. Time will tell....

I think PEX is great, its the chinese fittings I dont trust.
 
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