Is AMSOIL Signature Series a good clean out oil?

[CLeming]

Specifically the ATM 10w-30. I ask because in the past I have heard that switching to a synthetic oil will clean out the sludge and varnish from an engine that has not previously used a synthetic oil before. Have also heard that some oils do this more than others- Group 5 oils will clean up more, etc. So how about this particular oil that appears to be a PAO group 4?

The cars I would be using this in would range from 70k miles to 138k miles, all run on reg oil changed often (<5k miles) and there is light sludge and moderate varnish in each.

 

[ltslimjim]

Well, it's not just the basestock grouping, but the additive package in full really, that; at least in large part, can affect how well it can 'clean' an engine.

I will say this, I just went on Amsoil AZO 0w-30 for 8,000 but had some car work done and changed the oil early. Prior to changing, I added a pint of engine flush(LubroMoly Pro-Line Engine Flush) and when I drained/poured up the used oil I saw absolutely no chunks or anything to signify break-down or any sort of deposit formation while using the oil.

This engine has 260,000+ miles and who knows how the previous owners treated it b4 I got my hands on it at 230,000...but I'm impressed the Amsoil didn't leave deposist at 8,000 with a lot of short trips(50% or more of trips are less than 10 miles, only 3.5 miles to work 1 way)...

Why? It's got a ton of Calcium! and the basestock doesn't break down like lesser quality basestocks. It's just a fact. Amsoil is top of the line quality. Most people agree that is the case.

So, all things considered, I think it'd clean as well as any other full syn out there, IMO.

Red Line with esters may do a better job at a certain aspect, on the other hand, but compare another group V oil like Green Earth Tech 5w-30...and I doubt it's all that good for a syn compared to top-end like M1, Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra, etc.

 

[chubbs1]

SlimJim has a point, before you spend a bunch of money on "boutique" oils to clean out your engine there are cheaper alternatives to clean your engine first. Some would use 20% MMO w/ PYB and that would be a good start. Pennzoil Ultra and Pennzoil Platinum actually do a very good job at cleaning, I have seen it myself. Once you get your engine cleaner It may be better to switch over to Amsoil or RL. It really depends on what you want to spend but I feel just PYB and MMO would serve you well to start with. Do a couple of short (1.5-2k) runs and save yourself some money.

Just my 2cents.

 

[ltslimjim]

^I agree with this approach and thanks for brings out what I was getting at better, chubbs.

People do not buy Amsoil to clean their engine out. Amsoil is primarily for superb extended drain interval use, anyway.

I don't know of anyone that wants to go 10,000+ miles on a gunk/sludge filled up engine. Even a boutique oil will be wasted in it's overall cleansing capability well before long intervals are over. It's then about 'how long' can it keep the gunk suspended that it did cleanse before your cleanup efforts were wasted.

Of course, that doesn't stop some folks from buying these oils and changing them short, but it's probably not needed for cleansing alone is the point. It's mainly 'will keep you clean' while performing extended OCIs.

 

[tommygunn]

Seems like a "waste" to use Amsoil as a "clean up" oil.....I'd definitely consider something like standard conventional + MMO (no more than 25% of MMO in the crankcase...), so if the engine takes 5 quarts, fill it with 1 quart of MMO, and 4 quart of motor oil. Run it for 3000 miles.

Just keep an eye on the oil level, I've heard, and also experienced myself; oil "burn off" when MMO is used in the crankcase....typically after 1000 miles on the oil, the oil will drop, I typically only top off with 1/2 quart once the dipstick hits the "ADD" line....fear of Over-filling.....

But no, I wouldn't use MMO as a cleaning oil....

 

[chad8]

Your engines probably do not need anything more than a decent cleaning quality dino or synthetic . pyb is a better than average one,M1 is excellent.
All the major players have one now.
even wpp. Stop obsessing about a little varnish.
Skip the mmo until the last 1000 miles of a change and you probably do not need it at all.

 

[45ACP]

Why wouldnt it be.

Im sure it is.

Its not like its any worse than most other oils at this, SN.

 

[Trex101]

I would go with Pennzoil Ultra, it is marketed with superior cleaning ability.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: chubbs1
SlimJim has a point, before you spend a bunch of money on "boutique" oils to clean out your engine there are cheaper alternatives to clean your engine first. Some would use 20% MMO w/ PYB and that would be a good start. Pennzoil Ultra and Pennzoil Platinum actually do a very good job at cleaning, I have seen it myself. Once you get your engine cleaner It may be better to switch over to Amsoil or RL. It really depends on what you want to spend but I feel just PYB and MMO would serve you well to start with. Do a couple of short (1.5-2k) runs and save yourself some money.

Just my 2cents.


I agree as well, only I would run the oil for 3000 miles with the MMO in the sump before I made the change over. Just keep an eye on the oil level.

Edit to add:

Or add a pint of MMO for the last 1000 miles of an OCI, then change the oil to something like PYB, add a qt of MMO and run 3000 miles. Take your pick JMO

 

[brandini]

If you want to clean up, Amsoil makes an engine flush. Worked great on 2 friends miatas curing lifter tick.

 

[Brien]

Why not throw Rotella, Delo, or Delvac in it?

Those are much more cost effective options and will clean the engine nicely.

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: Brien
Why not throw Rotella, Delo, or Delvac in it?

Those are much more cost effective options and will clean the engine nicely.


I know those are lower priced, but how do you know the last bit? Just curious.

My recommendation is some short runs with lower cost oils and freash filters, each with MMO or Kreen for the last 500 miles or so. And each followed with an idle only flush like Amsoil flush. Then a first short run with Amsoil, say 4-5K. You should be good to go at that point.

 

[Brien]

The oils I listed have high detergent levels.

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: Brien
The oils I listed have high detergent levels.


Please define. How do the detergents work and do they actually clean? I was assuming you had real experience with pictures at least.

I contend that yes HDEO oils are probably better than standard PCMO's in dirty engines, but they really don't clean existing hardened materials. The (Mg and Ca based) detergents help carry some dirt (soot, particulates, partially oxidized polymers) created while in use, but really aren't much better than most other oils in cleaning hard junk. As Terry Dyson says, you don't use a motor oil as a cleaner.

 

[addyguy]

With 5k changes on regular oil, I have severe doubts that either of you engines has ANY sludge deposits in them. Some varnish, maybe, but no sludge.

You don't need to clean anything...just switch to syn if you want!

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: Pablo

I know those are lower priced, but how do you know the last bit? Just curious.

My recommendation is some short runs with lower cost oils and freash filters, each with MMO or Kreen for the last 500 miles or so. And each followed with an idle only flush like Amsoil flush. Then a first short run with Amsoil, say 4-5K. You should be good to go at that point.

Does using 1/10 bottle with 25-30 miles highway drive will give the same result ?

 

[dave123]

I am thinking a clean up using Auto-Rx then a change over to Syn how times have changed on this site.

 

[CLeming]

LOL

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR

Does using 1/10 bottle with 25-30 miles highway drive will give the same result ?


No.

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: Brien
Why not throw Rotella, Delo, or Delvac in it?

Those are much more cost effective options and will clean the engine nicely.


I know those are lower priced, but how do you know the last bit? Just curious.

My recommendation is some short runs with lower cost oils and freash filters, each with MMO or Kreen for the last 500 miles or so. And each followed with an idle only flush like Amsoil flush. Then a first short run with Amsoil, say 4-5K. You should be good to go at that point.


That's basically what I did for this Civic. A few Max Life Valvoline oil changes, then idle flush with Amsoil, along with Power Foam for top-end cleaning. After that, I used Rotella T6 w/ 20% or so MMO, now just finished 7,000+ miles on Amsoil AZO 0w-30. Currently, running Pennzoil Ultra, then plan on sticking with Amsoil for extended OCIs. Before the drain of this last Amsoil interval, I added LubroMoly's Pro Line Engine Flush...nothing came out with it. This engine is pretty clean for it's age and not knowing the previous owner's maintenance habbits. I'm satisfied!