Interesting - dealers turning away from EVs.

Toyota made the Prius reliable (past tense)
Gen 3 are garbage and even Gen 4 is starting with multiple low mile head gaskets and other defects.

The i3 has a garbage range extender coupled with BMW priced repairs and service all on a $20000 economy car that supposedly sold for $65,000 but was used as a loss leader for many years beyond its original design life to get EV credits.

The car always lagged in battery, range and fuel economy
Can you elaborate? What type of real world economy can one get with a gen 1 or 2 prius?

Honest question.
 
Can you elaborate? What type of real world economy can one get with a gen 1 or 2 prius?

Honest question.
40’s unless you exclusively run with a bad battery in winter doing short trips.

Those getting 60mpg + typically live in a warmer climate coupled with grid lock and low speed driving (or they hypermile)

Depending on the cars condition, your driving conditions and typical mix of speeds low 40’s to mid 60’s isn’t uncommon.

If you battery is on its way out economy can get pretty mediocre no matter what year Prius you own.
Same with cold weather, Prius can be attrotious on short trips in zero F weather.
 
EVs are the right vehicle choice for some but not for all as they are today. If you're daily commute is in excess of 100 miles and most recreational trips can be arranged with recharging at hotel stays, then it works great as the EVs will bring about the most savings by a more heavy use compared to a ICE car. The problem becomes when the car is not driven great distances daily ( commute to work is a mile or two), and recreational use are short distances and infrequent, then EVs may not be the right choice as the batteries will deteriorate from age. The money saved from using electricity during that period will not make up for the higher upfront cost and replacement costs for the batteries.
 
EVs are the right vehicle choice for some but not for all as they are today. If you're daily commute is in excess of 100 miles and most recreational trips can be arranged with recharging at hotel stays, then it works great as the EVs will bring about the most savings by a more heavy use compared to a ICE car. The problem becomes when the car is not driven great distances daily ( commute to work is a mile or two), and recreational use are short distances and infrequent, then EVs may not be the right choice as the batteries will deteriorate from age. The money saved from using electricity during that period will not make up for the higher upfront cost and replacement costs for the batteries.

If you live in California where gas is $5+ and will likely continue to rise, and have solar and charge your EV at home in the day time, or have solar + battery storage (Powerwall or similar) then use that to charge your car, your ROI on the solar/solar+storage/EV is going to be great.

On the other hand, if you have a decent MPG car, live where gas is like $3, and can't charge at home (apartment, etc) so you have to use public paid charging, the only benefit to EV compared to a decent MPG car is the faster 0-60 of most EVs compared to most decent MPG cars and you'll likely never save money.
 
Not sure how you figure:

My Volvo, 2023, bought Aug of last year:
Paid $63K
Car is now worth $18K trade value. Probably $30k KBB.
If I had paid cash, I'd be out $33K if I hit a deer and totaled it.
Since I financed it, I'm just out the few payments.

I let others take the risk with assets that depreciate.
Explain that to me. If the car gets damaged you can walk away from the loan ?
 
I would guess lots of people think the Electricity comes from the wall receptacle
I think that some people are smarter than you give them credit for. This forum is a microcosm of society-I'm sure you have read some of the same posts I have. That's all I'm saying....
 
I think it’s price more than anything. EV’s are expensive.
As is the uncertainty of a major blow to your wallet when the battery fails outside of warranty and you're still paying for the loan.
Maintenance is insanely cheap as are opersting costs vs comparable gas vehicles.
Again, they still have the same requirements for tires, brakes, suspension, overly complicated electronics, body items, etc as ICE vehicles. Possibly the thing we are forgetting here is the cost of BATTERIES!!!!!

Does anyone know what the cost of a battery replacement averages?
 
As is the uncertainty of a major blow to your wallet when the battery fails outside of warranty and you're still paying for the loan.

Again, they still have the same requirements for tires, brakes, suspension, overly complicated electronics, body items, etc as ICE vehicles. Possibly the thing we are forgetting here is the cost of BATTERIES!!!!!

Does anyone know what the cost of a battery replacement averages?

$10K for my car for rebuilt battery from used cells with 3 year warranty. https://www.greentecauto.com/hybrid-battery/chevrolet/volt/volt-2013-2015/chevrolet-volt-battery
 
$10K for my car for rebuilt battery from used cells with 3 year warranty. https://www.greentecauto.com/hybrid-battery/chevrolet/volt/volt-2013-2015/chevrolet-volt-battery
I’m interested to know how long the original lasted. Rebuilt using “used” cells? I wonder if the range suffers being rebuilt?

I think this is part of the answer to why dealers don’t want used EV’s.
Also, I know you get some type of tax credit buying a new EV but is this offered on a used one?
 
Precisely why this is important. If there was a guaranteed engine or transmission failure after a certain time period on a ICE regardless of maintenance or how gentle you operate it, you want to know what you are getting yourself into.
 
I’m interested to know how long the original lasted. Rebuilt using “used” cells? I wonder if the range suffers being rebuilt?

I think this is part of the answer to why dealers don’t want used EV’s.
Also, I know you get some type of tax credit buying a new EV but is this offered on a used one?
The thing about rebuilt batteries is cell balance. It's possible to rebuild one and have stellar range, but it all comes down to what that balance is. If the voltage balance across the board is overall lower than a new battery, it'll have a bit less range, but it would be more reliable day to to day range wise than an unbalanced one.

There are some used EV credits in the works if some states don't already have some in effect. I'm not familiar with one in effect at the Federal level. I don't see one looking at existing used Teslas on Tesla's website, but I recall there being something to do with the car needing to be at least 3 years old to qualify if it ever went in effect.
 
I’m interested to know how long the original lasted. Rebuilt using “used” cells? I wonder if the range suffers being rebuilt?

I think this is part of the answer to why dealers don’t want used EV’s.
Also, I know you get some type of tax credit buying a new EV but is this offered on a used one?

I am still on the original battery. No degradation yet as far as I can tell.

The tax credit sucks. Yes I’m eligible for the 4k used EV tax credit BUT it’s a non refundable tax credit. So since I don’t typically owe taxes at the end of the year (I usually get a tax refund) it’s basically wasted and I’m not getting anything out of it. At least that’s how I understand. I’m pretty irritated about that.
 
I am still on the original battery. No degradation yet as far as I can tell.

The tax credit sucks. Yes I’m eligible for the 4k used EV tax credit BUT it’s a non refundable tax credit. So since I don’t typically owe taxes at the end of the year (I usually get a tax refund) it’s basically wasted and I’m not getting anything out of it. At least that’s how I understand. I’m pretty irritated about that.
It would credit it towards your tax burden, meaning it would just increase your return. All your return means is that your withholding is set higher than your tax requirement. Now if your actual tax burden was under $4k then it would reduce the benefit you get.
 
I am still on the original battery. No degradation yet as far as I can tell.

The tax credit sucks. Yes I’m eligible for the 4k used EV tax credit BUT it’s a non refundable tax credit. So since I don’t typically owe taxes at the end of the year (I usually get a tax refund) it’s basically wasted and I’m not getting anything out of it. At least that’s how I understand. I’m pretty irritated about that.
The tax credit is not about getting a refund or owing at the end of the year. It is about your total tax liability over a given year. If you qualify, you can get a credit to reduce your total tax for that year.
The calculation is:
Total tax - EV tax credit = Total tax.
If Total tax < 0 then Total tax = 0.
 
Explain that to me. If the car gets damaged you can walk away from the loan ?
If the car is totalled, the bank eats the loan without impact to my finances or credit. If I paid cash, and had full coverage, Id just get a check for appraised value.
 
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