The math doesn't work in many places no matter how long. High gas places like California are the exception. I plugged all the numbers in the government calculator and the savings was like $700 a year. So I spend $10K more to pay back in 14 years? Unlikely today's EV's will last that long anyway, assuming someone doesn't rear end and total it before then.I mean, EV's are more expensive up front even though they save money down the road.
I would love to see your math.Well, I save about $5k/year in gasoline (also factoring in what I pay for electricity) right now, so unless you think gas will go down/electricity will rise faster than gas, then I don't think much work needs to go into speculating.
Gas in my rdx was $4.50/gal for 91 octane TT rated.I would love to see your math.
$5000 in gas here is over 1500 gallons, which will take me well over 50K miles in my Rav4? Are you driving 100K miles per year, or am I missing something?
Thanks for sharing. Seems you have expensive gas and cheap electricity.Gas in my rdx was $4.50/gal for 91 octane TT rated.
It got 24.2mpg lifetime.
I drive 28k mi year.
I spend $80/mo in charging my EV.
So more like $4500/year, sorry.
Ev6 GTThanks for sharing. Seems you have expensive gas and cheap electricity.
Which EV - model X?
Isn't your calc is more appropriate to leases? That's an issue for "1 payment" leases.Well, my C40 msrped for $63k. Vroom just offered me $18k. Pay cash and total it on a deer and tell me how sad you are. Finance it, GAP, and pass liability on to the bank.
Well, yes and no and maybe.I think it’s price more than anything. EV’s are expensive.
Not sure how you figure:Isn't your calc is more appropriate to leases? That's an issue for "1 payment" leases.
My cars are insured for their current value. I hate leases and I hate loans. But each to their own...
Thanks for the post. The article is dead on in the marketing area stated which is Illinois, Iowa, Minnesota and Wisconsin, but not necessarily California, where most EV sales are.Epic Fail: Car Dealers Bolting From EV's After Learning Harsh Lessons
"The spectacular growth we've seen over the last few years cannot be sustained," one expert said. "It's just not possible."www.westernjournal.com
Fun fact: the only new car you can get is with uncertainty.... maybe Corolla or Camry hybrid would be reliable but still an uncertainty unless it has been out for a while.The Gen 2 Prius run ended in 2009. You are recommending a car that is at least 14 years old.
Or, maybe you can buy a used car to begin with, and have the big initial depreciation done, so if it got hit and totaled you get a replacement car or similar value in cash?Not sure how you figure:
My Volvo, 2023, bought Aug of last year:
Paid $63K
Car is now worth $18K trade value. Probably $30k KBB.
If I had paid cash, I'd be out $33K if I hit a deer and totaled it.
Since I financed it, I'm just out the few payments.
I let others take the risk with assets that depreciate.
You don't have to have payment equal uncertainty. I bought my last car with cash, then saw a CU deal in 2015 for 1.5% loan for new car for a 2 year loan. I took out the loan and use it to refi my mortgage (3%), saving 1.5% in return. Sure if it gets totaled I will be up side down but that's not how I look at it, I look at it as a free 1.5% return investment and I paid for my car in cash, and let my insurance company replace the car for me if it gets totaled. To me it was no uncertainty and no risk of any kind.Why is that? I hate payments because I hate uncertainty.
I don't have a problem buying used cars except I prefer new ones. Worth it to me.Or, maybe you can buy a used car to begin with, and have the big initial depreciation done, so if it got hit and totaled you get a replacement car or similar value in cash?
You don't have to have payment equal uncertainty. I bought my last car with cash, then saw a CU deal in 2015 for 1.5% loan for new car for a 2 year loan. I took out the loan and use it to refi my mortgage (3%), saving 1.5% in return. Sure if it gets totaled I will be up side down but that's not how I look at it, I look at it as a free 1.5% return investment and I paid for my car in cash, and let my insurance company replace the car for me if it gets totaled. To me it was no uncertainty and no risk of any kind.
Wait, so a car you hate and just bought last year cost you $50k all-in during that 12 months? I’d never bet on cash purchase getting 66% higher than KBB. And even if I paid cash for the vehicle purchase, I’m still having full coverage on my primary vehicle; liability only on my “extra” Subaru. If I’m going to get soaked on rates, you can bet I’m going to extract every dollar while I canNot sure how you figure:
My Volvo, 2023, bought Aug of last year:
Paid $63K
Car is now worth $18K trade value. Probably $30k KBB.
If I had paid cash, I'd be out $33K if I hit a deer and totaled it.
Since I financed it, I'm just out the few payments.
I let others take the risk with assets that depreciate.
Yeah. I just bought a 24 year old truck. The new stuff sucks.The Gen 2 Prius run ended in 2009. You are recommending a car that is at least 14 years old.
Reality is we now have Ford pickups taken down with tail led lights full of modules causing no start conditions.You need to train service staff and invest a bundle in new equipment to service an entirely different technology. A technology that, for everyone but Tesla, has few voluntary customers.
For a dealer, committing to EV sales and service now seems like flushing money down the crapper.