- Joined
- Mar 19, 2022
- Messages
- 770
At $0.273 a kWh delivered and 6 months of heating season, EVs are a non starter here.
Interesting - dealers turning away from EVs.
- Thread starter loneryder
- Start date
Kunes put himself in that spot at least in Fords case anyway.
He had the option to opt out of Fords Ev program.
What the dealers want is to have it all without any investment, while being able to gouge the customers for ridiculous markups with impunity.
There is no particularly compelling reason to buy a Ford EV even if you want an EV so customers that have choices will tell them to pound sand.
Is the heating season comment because you heat with electricity driving up the costs in tiers?
or is it because EV have reduced ranges in the cold? Or both?
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2022
- Messages
- 770
That cold reduces range significantly. And expensive electric rates.
On EV's and cold - its not as cut and dried as it seems at first glance.
There are many scenarios where cold will not (or very minimally) affect range, and many that do.
It's really more about how cold you let the battery get vs outdoor temp.
.27 sounds great, but its not cheap for sure.
I'm getting jabbed for .39 "off peak" and .51 from 4-9.
Why is reliability that important? It is a car....they all break. Some less than others, but none of them are perfect.
Might as well buy what you like to drive and what you can afford to fix.
I have never had a breakdown since I started buying new cars and trading them in before 100,000 miles.
Here is just my opinions:
1) Some people need to make it to work and school reliably, downtime is expensive. So if you don't have a spare car it is hard to work with an unreliable only car.
2) It is easier to predict how much you need in the long term if you have a reliable car, so you know how much you want to spend. I guess reliability is not as important as total cost of ownership, but to go beyond warranty you probably need something that you can trust. What is your car's useful life? 60k? 100k? 150k? 200k? Without knowing the reliability you can't really go further than 100k without rolling the dice.
3) This may be biased: is it cheaper to drive a Nissan Rouge that you know will last 60k or a Lexus that you know will last 180k? How do you know without reliability data?
Why are they cranking out all those EV's if the demand isn't there? What happened to keep inventory low and build to order?
I’ve never bought from them, but they have a location in Johnson Creek which is near me and has quite the selection of exotics which is very out of character for this area.
Reliability is massive. Have a job that requires you to show up 2 hours after the phone rings and will fire you if you’re late 2 times in a month? Sure a warranty covers most issues, but I also need it to reliably drive 100+ miles at the drop of a hat. I don’t have the luxury of making stupid car purchases like I used to.
Modern cars generally don’t break down in the manner you describe. Reliability issues tend to present themselves as issues that you notice (e.g. oil leak, CEL’s, etc.)
No. I dumped it months ago. It cost me $8k all in for that experience. Volvo still hasnt fixed those yet. I was just happy to dump it for a quality vehicle that I like. I entered its it into vroom just out of curiosity.Wait, so a car you hate and just bought last year cost you $50k all-in during that 12 months? I’d never bet on cash purchase getting 66% higher than KBB. And even if I paid cash for the vehicle purchase, I’m still having full coverage on my primary vehicle; liability only on my “extra” Subaru. If I’m going to get soaked on rates, you can bet I’m going to extract every dollar while I can
If I still had that car, and totalled it, Id get a check for $18k if Id paid cash. Financing it, they'd GAP it and Id just walk away...not having burned tens of thousands.
I think you’re confusing reliability with intended service life. Those are two entirely different things. I think you may be surprised to learn that OEM’s do benchmark a certain service life with their designs. This member was a powertrain engineer at FCA and he discusses it to some detail:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/626-000-mile-pentastar-teardown.329423/post-5474510
In this day and age it is likely that most manufacturers are competitive with each other.
Exactly, and my Volvo almost torpedoed me when the TCAM had a failure that locked me out of it at a stop I made to grab something to drink on the way to work.
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2022
- Messages
- 770
It's below freezing here for 5 months a year in northern Maine.
Vehicle heating and cold batteries are what I was thinking.
I lost brakes 3 times without warning on a Ford under warranty and they called it a wear and tear item.
Could go either way.
Could be awesome - car stays in your garage with a 50 amp connector and is always warm and ready to go with a full tank every day, you have hundreds of miles of range get your to work, back and shopping / chores every day beautifully- the car comes home every night and it just works. Or the car goes to destinations that have power or power close by.
Bette than ice.
Could be miserable - you could end up at a destination like a ski cabin with an almost dead battery with only 110, or no 110 and an ice cold battery and no range and it could take 2 days to get enough juice in it to drive back home.
Worse than ice.
There may or may not be an EV charging program available that would drop the nighttime rates, but for sure at .27 it isnt going to be a cheap date.
GON
$150 Site Donor 2025
Maybe this dealer can't exploit potential EV buyers as easily as the can exploit ice buyers?
A buyer with outstanding credit , and self discipline is likely the least desired customer a car dealer wants to sell to.
A buyer with outstanding credit , and self discipline is likely the least desired customer a car dealer wants to sell to.