Intake manifold gasket sealant?

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Jan 29, 2014
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Hello everyone, about 4 years ago I replaced my 05 Civic's broken plastic intake manifold with a cast aluminium manifold off of a 99 Civic EX VTEC (D16Y8 engine) for performance and durability reasons, a pretty common mod in the Civic community that has successfully been done many times. Everything went well except I had that manifold off several times since then trying to get the gasket to seal properly. I tried stock D17 gaskets as well as a Y8 gasket with no luck, but the stock D17 gasket sealed better than the Y8 gasket. Coating the gasket with RTV silicone and allowing it to cure for 2 days did not work either, it still leaked. I have also had the manifold machined flat by a machine shop in case it was warped, but that did not help either. The most luck I have had was with one of those plastic heat shield gasket, but it only lasted about 2 years before it melted and warped and started leaking again.

At this point I am thinking the problem is that the stock gasket is just a single sheet of thin steel, so it may not have enough give to seal the Y8 manifold since I am only able to use the 5 stock bolt holes since my cylinder head does not have bolt holes in 2 of the locations that the Y8 manifold does, so I am thinking I will need a light coat of some type of sealant on the gasket to get it to seal properly. The problem is I am not sure what sealant would work well in this application. RTV silicone didn't work, perhaps it is not strong enough to hold up to the intake vacuum or maybe the gasoline instantly dissolved it. I am thinking Permatex copper spray may work on the steel gasket, I already have a can of it so trying it wouldn't cost me anything but my time. It does claim to be gasoline resistant. Do you have any other suggestions for a good sealant that would work well in this application?

The other option I have considered but not yet tried is to make my own custom gasket out of a more pliable material such as a silicone sheet or some other type of gasket material. Only problem is most of the sheets of gasket material that I can find do not specifically claim to be gasoline resistant, which may be a problem for an intake manifold gasket.

If you have any suggestions for either a gasket sealant or a gasket material that would work well in this application please let me know, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much in advance! :)
 
Which RTV did you use? Either high heat or ultra copper would be the one to use for that.
Actually I tried a couple different ones. I tried coating the gasket with Permatex high temp the first time and it didn't work. Then I tried coating the gasket with Permatex Ultra Grey, which didn't work. I then tried using just Permatex Ultra Grey instead of a gasket, which didn't work. In each case I made sure the gasket, intake manifold, and head were clean and used brake cleaner to remove any oil before applying sealant and reassembling.
 
Actually I tried a couple different ones. I tried coating the gasket with Permatex high temp the first time and it didn't work. Then I tried coating the gasket with Permatex Ultra Grey, which didn't work. I then tried using just Permatex Ultra Grey instead of a gasket, which didn't work. In each case I made sure the gasket, intake manifold, and head were clean and used brake cleaner to remove any oil before applying sealant and reassembling.
Might give the ultra copper a try then it’s made for exhaust stuff. Also they have an exhaust repair sealant type stuff made by Permatex might try that too. I’ve got some laying around here somewhere if I find it I’ll post a picture.
 
Might give the ultra copper a try then it’s made for exhaust stuff. Also they have an exhaust repair sealant type stuff made by Permatex might try that too. I’ve got some laying around here somewhere if I find it I’ll post a picture.
Thank you for the suggestion. I'm not sure that any RTV silicone would be a permanent repair though since as far as I know none of them are fuel resistant. Also, I am not sure that the sealant is fully curing between the flanges. I wonder if this product may be better for that application since it is designed for tight fitting flanges. It does not specifically say that it is resistant to gasoline, but unlike their RTV silicones it doesn't specifically say that it isn't either. https://www.permatex.com/products/g...rmatex-anaerobic-flange-sealant/?locale=en_us
 
Thank you for the suggestion. I'm not sure that any RTV silicone would be a permanent repair though since as far as I know none of them are fuel resistant. Also, I am not sure that the sealant is fully curing between the flanges. I wonder if this product may be better for that application since it is designed for tight fitting flanges. It does not specifically say that it is resistant to gasoline, but unlike their RTV silicones it doesn't specifically say that it isn't either. https://www.permatex.com/products/g...rmatex-anaerobic-flange-sealant/?locale=en_us
That might work. I know they also have a high temperature version of that not sure how hot yours gets. Maybe some Hymolar or something too. Also they have a fuel resistant RTV it’s Orange and can withstand up to 500 degrees. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...iZObT6g5nRFvlCjvp7MaAs8vEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
That might work. I know they also have a high temperature version of that not sure how hot yours gets. Maybe some Hymolar or something too. Also they have a fuel resistant RTV it’s Orange and can withstand up to 500 degrees. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...iZObT6g5nRFvlCjvp7MaAs8vEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thank you. 300 degrees should be plenty, if my engine gets hotter than that it will have bigger problems than the intake manifold gasket. The fuel resistant RTV may be a good option too, but since the regular RTV failed as soon as I started it I don't know that the fuel was the problem. I think the problem was more likely that the RTV didn't fully cure even though I gave it plenty of time. Or RTV may just not be strong enough for a pressurized system, it is typically only used in systems that are at or close to atmospheric pressure.
 
Thank you. 300 degrees should be plenty, if my engine gets hotter than that it will have bigger problems than the intake manifold gasket. The fuel resistant RTV may be a good option too, but since the regular RTV failed as soon as I started it I don't know that the fuel was the problem. I think the problem was more likely that the RTV didn't fully cure even though I gave it plenty of time. Or RTV may just not be strong enough for a pressurized system, it is typically only used in systems that are at or close to atmospheric pressure.
That is true. Hopefully you can find something to work for you. I’d say that the flange sealant may just work.
 
I would ask how you applied the RTV. If you just applied it and cranked down the bolts you might want to try something different.

Apply the rtv and make sure it's spread properly, sit the intake on and just finger tighten the bolts down or maybe just a little turn of the wrench. Stop and let it cure for a couple of hours and then go back and start torquing it down. That gives the RTV a chance to harden a little so that more of it stays where you put it instead of squeezing out.

If you've already done that......I've got nuthen.
 
I would ask how you applied the RTV. If you just applied it and cranked down the bolts you might want to try something different.

Apply the rtv and make sure it's spread properly, sit the intake on and just finger tighten the bolts down or maybe just a little turn of the wrench. Stop and let it cure for a couple of hours and then go back and start torquing it down. That gives the RTV a chance to harden a little so that more of it stays where you put it instead of squeezing out.

If you've already done that......I've got nuthen.
I already tried that, but good tip! The problem with that method in my application is the intake manifold is heavy in the back and I need to tighten the bolts down a little more than finger tight to get the manifold flat against the head, which I think already squishes a lot of the silicone out. I may try that again though and see if I can prop the intake up in the back so there is a slight gap for the silicone to cure in, that way it squishes down when I tighten the bolts and hopefully seals. But even if it did seal, I'm not sure how long it would last. I'm not sure exactly how quickly gasoline would dissolve it, maybe if I try that with the fuel resistant one.
 
Thanks for the suggestion! Do you think that product would be resistant to gasoline? It doesn't specifically say it is, but it does say it is solvent resistant. Also, it doesn't say anything about being high temp.
I have used it in the past to seal intake manifolds and it NEVER let me down. If whatever you try next doesn't work I would contact the manufacturer. Which is Honda, correct?
 
I have used it in the past to seal intake manifolds and it NEVER let me down. If whatever you try next doesn't work I would contact the manufacturer. Which is Honda, correct?
Oh okay cool thank you, I may try that then. How did you use it? Just coat both sides of the gasket and torque it down? How long did you let it cure for? Unfortunately I wouldn't get any support from Honda, the car is over 10 years out of warranty and I have a non factory intake manifold.
 
Oh okay cool thank you, I may try that then. How did you use it? Just coat both sides of the gasket and torque it down? How long did you let it cure for? Unfortunately I wouldn't get any support from Honda, the car is over 10 years out of warranty and I have a non factory intake manifold.
It's VERY tacky! In your case you might want to apply it on both sides, I don't know. But, you need to work quick.
Have you gone on any Honda forums and asked for advice there?
 
It's VERY tacky! In your case you might want to apply it on both sides, I don't know. But, you need to work quick.
Have you gone on any Honda forums and asked for advice there?
Thank you for letting me know. Their website says working time is 4 minutes, so that should be enough to coat both sides of the gasket. How long did you let it dry for?

I have asked for help on a Honda forum but apparently no one else who has done this swap had this problem so no one really knew what to do.
 
Thank you for letting me know. Their website says working time is 4 minutes, so that should be enough to coat both sides of the gasket. How long did you let it dry for?

I have asked for help on a Honda forum but apparently no one else who has done this swap had this problem so no one really knew what to do.
It sounds like the manifold and/or head might be warped. I had run into that problem a lot when I was building engines. You might want to call some engine machine shops in your area to check the manifold and/or head.
 
It sounds like the manifold and/or head might be warped. I had run into that problem a lot when I was building engines. You might want to call some engine machine shops in your area to check the manifold and/or head.
That is what I though too, but I don't think that is the case. As I said I had the manifold resurfaced by a machine shop to make sure it was flat, which made no difference. I doubt that the problem is a warped head because I had the same problem with 2 different engines. I suppose it is possible to have 2 warped heads, although that seems unlikely.
 
That is what I though too, but I don't think that is the case. As I said I had the manifold resurfaced by a machine shop to make sure it was flat, which made no difference. I doubt that the problem is a warped head because I had the same problem with 2 different engines.
If it were mine I would get a good steel straight edge and some good feeler gauges and check the head. TRUST ME, it doesn't take much for an aluminum head to warp.
 
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